Is350 Oil Confusion No More
#46
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Hey Joe
It does list the GR series in it...
But, I would like to add it only states: 2006 Model Year Lexus Vehicles
Jz
It does list the GR series in it...
But, I would like to add it only states: 2006 Model Year Lexus Vehicles
Jz
That TSIB says 5W-20 applies to JZ series engines. LOL....
Run that on the 2JZ with a good launch on 1.5 bar and you'll have a spun rod bearing or crank walk. I need reliability. I'm sticking to Castrol Syntec 5W30 in mine (Sorry. but I'm against Amsoil. 30K oil changes?!). I run 5W50 on the JZ engines and they have minimal wear on either the engine internals, valvetrain or turbocharger CHRA.
Run that on the 2JZ with a good launch on 1.5 bar and you'll have a spun rod bearing or crank walk. I need reliability. I'm sticking to Castrol Syntec 5W30 in mine (Sorry. but I'm against Amsoil. 30K oil changes?!). I run 5W50 on the JZ engines and they have minimal wear on either the engine internals, valvetrain or turbocharger CHRA.
#47
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Thanks for the info Javy!!!
Depends on what you're after. If you want lowest cost, just use plain old dino juice and change everything every 5,000 miles. I like running extended OCI's for a couple of reasons:
1) The fewer oil changes I have to do, the better. Less mess to wipe up, less time spent, etc...
2) the fewer times I have to open the oil fill cap, the less chance there is something foreign getting in,
3) I'm not a big tree hugger or anything, but disposing of 1/2 the used oil I'd use with dino oil is eco-friendly.
As far as the type of oil, the Lexus TSB states that "ILSAC GF-4 5W-20 is recommended due to its superiority in terms of fuel economy, engine protection, and cold starting performance." So, if you want better protection and gas mileage, use 5W-20.
I personally change my oil every 10,000 miles, and the filter every 5,000. I buy the filters in packs from Sewell, and I still have some left to use.
Javier
1) The fewer oil changes I have to do, the better. Less mess to wipe up, less time spent, etc...
2) the fewer times I have to open the oil fill cap, the less chance there is something foreign getting in,
3) I'm not a big tree hugger or anything, but disposing of 1/2 the used oil I'd use with dino oil is eco-friendly.
As far as the type of oil, the Lexus TSB states that "ILSAC GF-4 5W-20 is recommended due to its superiority in terms of fuel economy, engine protection, and cold starting performance." So, if you want better protection and gas mileage, use 5W-20.
I personally change my oil every 10,000 miles, and the filter every 5,000. I buy the filters in packs from Sewell, and I still have some left to use.
Javier
#48
If you want the best in all aspects (cold starts/flow rate, thermal breakdown, wear, extended OCIs, etc.) I feel this is the best oil on the market.
http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/asm.aspx
Koz
http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/asm.aspx
Koz
#49
Tech Info Resource
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That TSIB says 5W-20 applies to JZ series engines. LOL....
Run that on the 2JZ with a good launch on 1.5 bar and you'll have a spun rod bearing or crank walk. I need reliability. I'm sticking to Castrol Syntec 5W30 in mine (Sorry. but I'm against Amsoil. 30K oil changes?!). I run 5W50 on the JZ engines and they have minimal wear on either the engine internals, valvetrain or turbocharger CHRA.
Run that on the 2JZ with a good launch on 1.5 bar and you'll have a spun rod bearing or crank walk. I need reliability. I'm sticking to Castrol Syntec 5W30 in mine (Sorry. but I'm against Amsoil. 30K oil changes?!). I run 5W50 on the JZ engines and they have minimal wear on either the engine internals, valvetrain or turbocharger CHRA.
Plain bearing turbos are a completely different world for oil, however, if you're running a ball bearing turbo, there's no need to saddle your engine with 50 weight. Lots and lots of turbo people will tell you to run 50 weight with plain bearings, and it's not bad advice under adverse conditions. It's just hard to encounter adverse conditions on the street unless you're a street racer doing 150 mph+ runs, and even then it's not nearly as abusive as a couple of laps at TWS, Road Atlanta, or any other road course you might want to drive.
BTW, I ran Syntec in my '93 Celica with a 5F-SE after break-in with conventional oil. The rings never seated, and it burned a quart every 3k for the next 40k miles I owned it. Castrol Syntec is also the reason why Group III oils can be marketed as synthetic even though they're really just highly refined conventional oils. I'll never run Syntec again.
#50
So has there been a resolution to this at all?
The TSIB states this change is for 06 models only. I have an 07 so I would like to know what it the officially accepted oil recommendation for 07 models and if this TSIB is applicable to post 06 models.
#51
Since this previous post I've gone back to Amsoil 0w-30. With the 0w-30 I no longer get the cam start-up noise. As far as UOAs the 0w-20 and the 0w-30 are almost identical, with the 30 having a little more life to it. Both are able to be used for one year regardless of the miles. I would estimate the oil (Amsoil) safely lasting between 15 and 20K miles!
Koz
#52
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (65)
I just got done reading this thread and the title is very deceptive - I'm more confused than ever! I'm about to get my free oil change at the dealer, so I guess I'll ask them for 5w20... sounds like it makes very little difference anyway but if there's a possibility of better gas mileage with no cons, might as well.
#53
I just got done reading this thread and the title is very deceptive - I'm more confused than ever! I'm about to get my free oil change at the dealer, so I guess I'll ask them for 5w20... sounds like it makes very little difference anyway but if there's a possibility of better gas mileage with no cons, might as well.
Koz
#54
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If you want the best in all aspects (cold starts/flow rate, thermal breakdown, wear, extended OCIs, etc.) I feel this is the best oil on the market.
http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/asm.aspx
Koz
http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/asm.aspx
Koz
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