Stock Sub IS350
#5
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I haven't read a single thread identifying an available aftermarket replacement for the stock sub. The first problem obviously is its design (open air, minimum depth). The second problem is insufficient stock amp output wattage to the sub. You're better off adding a mono sub amp and sub(s) in a box or custom enclosure.
I added a 12" sub (ported box), a Kicker 300w mono amp and tapped into the speaker level outputs from the factory amp using a Scoshe LOC via the 4 leads going to the stock sub. This whole setup, including cabling cost me less than $300 (self installed). I'm no audiophile, but it's MORE than enough bass. I keep the remote bass **** (included w/ the amp) at about 50%.
I initially removed the factory sub. Some folks suggested doing this to 1.) create an opening between the trunk and cabin and to 2.) prevent the stock sub from "fapping" from the deep bass of the new, bigger sub. However, I found this dropped the mid-bass significantly. So, I reinstalled the stock sub and combined w/ the new one it sounds absolutely great. The key is setting appropriate gains and observing the correct polarity. I sometimes open the pass-thru (rear armrest) to the trunk for more bass.
I added a 12" sub (ported box), a Kicker 300w mono amp and tapped into the speaker level outputs from the factory amp using a Scoshe LOC via the 4 leads going to the stock sub. This whole setup, including cabling cost me less than $300 (self installed). I'm no audiophile, but it's MORE than enough bass. I keep the remote bass **** (included w/ the amp) at about 50%.
I initially removed the factory sub. Some folks suggested doing this to 1.) create an opening between the trunk and cabin and to 2.) prevent the stock sub from "fapping" from the deep bass of the new, bigger sub. However, I found this dropped the mid-bass significantly. So, I reinstalled the stock sub and combined w/ the new one it sounds absolutely great. The key is setting appropriate gains and observing the correct polarity. I sometimes open the pass-thru (rear armrest) to the trunk for more bass.
Last edited by jejagua; 02-14-08 at 01:02 PM. Reason: Minor correction
#6
Lexus Fanatic
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I haven't read a single thread identifying an available aftermarket replacement for the stock sub. The first problem obviously is its design (open air, minimum depth). The second problem is insufficient stock amp output wattage to the amp. You're better off adding a mono sub amp and sub(s) in a box or custom enclosure.
I added a 12" sub (ported box), a Kicker 300w mono amp and tapped into the speaker level outputs from the factory amp using a Scoshe LOC via the 4 leads going to the stock sub. This whole setup, including cabling cost me less than $300 (self installed). I'm no audiophile, but it's MORE than enough bass. I keep the remote bass **** (included w/ the amp) at about 50%.
I initially removed the factory sub. Some folks suggested doing this to 1.) create an opening between the trunk and cabin and to 2.) prevent the stock sub from "fapping" from the deep bass of the new, bigger sub. However, I found this dropped the mid-bass significantly. So, I reinstalled the stock sub and combined w/ the new one it sounds absolutely great. The key is setting appropriate gains and observing the correct polarity. I sometimes open the pass-thru (rear armrest) to the trunk for more bass.
I added a 12" sub (ported box), a Kicker 300w mono amp and tapped into the speaker level outputs from the factory amp using a Scoshe LOC via the 4 leads going to the stock sub. This whole setup, including cabling cost me less than $300 (self installed). I'm no audiophile, but it's MORE than enough bass. I keep the remote bass **** (included w/ the amp) at about 50%.
I initially removed the factory sub. Some folks suggested doing this to 1.) create an opening between the trunk and cabin and to 2.) prevent the stock sub from "fapping" from the deep bass of the new, bigger sub. However, I found this dropped the mid-bass significantly. So, I reinstalled the stock sub and combined w/ the new one it sounds absolutely great. The key is setting appropriate gains and observing the correct polarity. I sometimes open the pass-thru (rear armrest) to the trunk for more bass.
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07-14-04 06:15 PM