IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013) Discussion about the 2006+ model IS models

Stock Sub IS350

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Old 02-13-08, 11:23 PM
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yolnerd
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Default Stock Sub IS350

can someone tell me the size of the stock sub in the is350 non ML? how many is there? im a noob.
Old 02-14-08, 12:32 AM
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yolnerd
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can anyone help me?
Old 02-14-08, 12:37 AM
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06-IS250
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I believe there is one 8" sub in the back.
Old 02-14-08, 07:13 AM
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Brian231
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It is an 8" free air sub!! You can get to it by removing the rear decklid as it bolts down from the inside of the car.
Old 02-14-08, 12:52 PM
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jejagua
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I haven't read a single thread identifying an available aftermarket replacement for the stock sub. The first problem obviously is its design (open air, minimum depth). The second problem is insufficient stock amp output wattage to the sub. You're better off adding a mono sub amp and sub(s) in a box or custom enclosure.

I added a 12" sub (ported box), a Kicker 300w mono amp and tapped into the speaker level outputs from the factory amp using a Scoshe LOC via the 4 leads going to the stock sub. This whole setup, including cabling cost me less than $300 (self installed). I'm no audiophile, but it's MORE than enough bass. I keep the remote bass **** (included w/ the amp) at about 50%.

I initially removed the factory sub. Some folks suggested doing this to 1.) create an opening between the trunk and cabin and to 2.) prevent the stock sub from "fapping" from the deep bass of the new, bigger sub. However, I found this dropped the mid-bass significantly. So, I reinstalled the stock sub and combined w/ the new one it sounds absolutely great. The key is setting appropriate gains and observing the correct polarity. I sometimes open the pass-thru (rear armrest) to the trunk for more bass.

Last edited by jejagua; 02-14-08 at 01:02 PM. Reason: Minor correction
Old 02-14-08, 12:55 PM
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Brian231
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Originally Posted by jejagua
I haven't read a single thread identifying an available aftermarket replacement for the stock sub. The first problem obviously is its design (open air, minimum depth). The second problem is insufficient stock amp output wattage to the amp. You're better off adding a mono sub amp and sub(s) in a box or custom enclosure.

I added a 12" sub (ported box), a Kicker 300w mono amp and tapped into the speaker level outputs from the factory amp using a Scoshe LOC via the 4 leads going to the stock sub. This whole setup, including cabling cost me less than $300 (self installed). I'm no audiophile, but it's MORE than enough bass. I keep the remote bass **** (included w/ the amp) at about 50%.

I initially removed the factory sub. Some folks suggested doing this to 1.) create an opening between the trunk and cabin and to 2.) prevent the stock sub from "fapping" from the deep bass of the new, bigger sub. However, I found this dropped the mid-bass significantly. So, I reinstalled the stock sub and combined w/ the new one it sounds absolutely great. The key is setting appropriate gains and observing the correct polarity. I sometimes open the pass-thru (rear armrest) to the trunk for more bass.
That's some great info to know, thanks for posting.
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