joonsta

These break-in threads get me worried .

For the manufacturer suggested break-in period or 621 miles, I varied my driving styles.

When I started up my car, I usually stayed well below 3,000 RPM, and avoid fast accelerations.

But after the engine warmed up, I sometimes stepped on the gas and went up to 5,000 to 6,500 RPM whenever Los Angeles traffic allowed me to.

Most of time though, I was restricted to around 1,500 to 3,000 RPM due to traffic.

Could anyone tell me if my car's gonna blow up in the future or not ?

krazykanuk

Yeah, I think that by following the manufacturer's instructions you're screwed.

jimjaix

iTrader: (1)

After reading this thread got me a little worried, I currnetly have 530 mileage on my IS 250 AWD and it has been 6 weeks already or maybe 7 (snow a lot in NY, I don't drive my car when it snows or rains). on freeway I did some 50smph and a few 60mph I want to stay below 60 because someone told me not to put it so hard since its a brand new car. It seems like I am totally screwed now.... AM I?

joonsta

I thought you were supposed to push the car during the break-in period...

Technique

Some people think yes, others think no...

I know for a fact that you are supposed to push the car VERY hard during break in... In fact, the first hour or two that you own the car is the critical break-in time... Redlining the car and proper use of the brakes are critical...

Check it out, here's a video clip of my car with less than 100 miles on the odo... This is how you properly break-in a car...

http://www.infoarena.com/lexus/misc/redline.avi

donm3ga

I do this.

My friend did the same thing when he first bought his IS350. Ran a 13.7 bone stock, full interior, with spare tire at the track.

I have a couple of friends who are mechanics, and one of them is a Toyota/Lexus expert, and they all say the same thing. RUN IT HARD. Now don't abuse it...but drive her hard.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, there are a few of us here who believe the same stuff for the same reasons, and we've been doing it quite a bit longer than motoman.

as3.0cl

iTrader: (2)

most toyota's a lexus' have a learning computer in it. when you first buy it they say run them hard becaue one to break i nthe motor and two for the ecu to learn to open up. i know on my dads truck he had to do this and the same for his 4runner that he's trading for a GS350awd.

i'm not to concerned about the break in, the one i'm getting because they sold about 5 IS250's awd on saturday i'm stuck with the car that everyone drives. what happened was when i was there picking out the black one, some one had sold it minutes before, so the only blakc one left ith the same equipment was the one everyone drove. it's thats one and get it at invoice or less along with my dads GS as a package deal or wait a month. i'm grabbing it because i'm not to to concerned with everone else that drove it.

NotoriousB

I broke it in, didnt accellerate quick, after 1000k I let it rip. Dont know if it really is worthwhile, but im sure it didnt hurt, not supposed to break hard with new breaks anyhow so im sure that helped to breakin the breaks

donm3ga

Go hard or go home.

phatboyc

I believe in Sports mode the CPU is always at full.

2SwiFt29

iTrader: (6)

i went for about 500-1000 miles.. forgot exactly when, but before that, i would take the rpm once in a while past 3k rpm.. can't always leave it under 3k rpm when under 500 miles...

92ES5sp

While I havent experienced the new car experience yet, (Im 24) Proper break-in is essential to the longevity of the vehicle; however with many owners parting ways with vehicles due to leases and trade ins this procedure is almost non-existent. Also IMO too many people are out there driving around in cars with the hood last opened at Jiffy Lube for an oil change 8,000 miles ago, driving a potentially dangerous vehicle and not even know it.

First 500-600 miles: Avoid highway speeds, long idling and no towing or sustained cruising.
600 to 1000 miles: Drive normally at variable speeds.
Id change the oil at 1.5Kto 2K check it first though.

Enjoy your ride!
Today cars dont need a lot of break in like older ones. Theyre so adaptive now its unreal.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the quote from the owner's manual, but that's not really the discussion. I think we've pretty much beat this horse to complete and total death.

nabbun

The thing about Conventional Motor Oil is that is has gotten better now.

They have less impurities in them and can run to 5,000 miles instead of 3,000.

But, the additives in the oil will only last about 3,000 miles.

So, it'd be better to just stick with 3,000 miles until they find additives that last longer =P

If you're going to go synthetic for the long term benefits, switch to synthetic at about 15,000 miles and use it from then on.

Older engines has carbon deposits built up so switching right away would loosen up the deposits and could be harmful to your engine.

Use an engine cleaner for high mileage vehicles right before you fill up your tank (or however the directions say) and then switch.

Synthetic oils will last a lot longer because they pretty much don't have any impurities left.

But the additives in them don't last as long as the oil itself will either.

If you are going to run Synthetic, and drive aggressively or in the city, then change them at or around 7,500 miles.

I'm not saying this is how it's done or it is the final word.

Only if you want the best out of your oil and engine =P