IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013) Discussion about the 2006+ model IS models

just got my amp and sub, now i wanna install..question on tapping wires

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Old 06-08-08, 07:57 AM
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VTLexus
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Default just got my amp and sub, now i wanna install..question on tapping wires

is there a consensus on whether to tap the sub woofer wire alone or combining with the front woofer as well? all my local installers are going to just tap the main subwoofer signal. i may do the install myself, so i'd like to know what i should do.
Old 06-08-08, 08:21 AM
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from what i understand if you tap the woofer wires alone... it will sound funny if you wanted to still use your factory bass.... something about the sound signal being sent at different times... therefore hitting with a lag... i could be wrong but it was something like that... but if you were planning to take out the factory sub it's going to be missing some mid bass.... i would follow tt061880 DIY
Old 06-08-08, 08:27 AM
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VTLexus
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i don't think there would be lag, after all, you are just tapping the same signal. ive read other people have had it work just fine leaving the stock sub in there.

im not gonna take out the stock sub either.
Old 06-08-08, 02:09 PM
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Kris Laes
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I just tapped the subwoofer signal and let the stock one connected, sounds just fine to me. What is important though is that you get a LOC with volume control on it, otherwise your aftermarket sub will sound way too loud (yes, even if your amp had high level input and level control, that just isn't sufficient )
Old 06-08-08, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Kris Laes
I just tapped the subwoofer signal and let the stock one connected, sounds just fine to me. What is important though is that you get a LOC with volume control on it, otherwise your aftermarket sub will sound way too loud (yes, even if your amp had high level input and level control, that just isn't sufficient )
thanks for the great tip. can you recommand any easy to purchase LOCs found in common stores? one of my car audio shops had a PAC LOC but it was $25, and i'm not sure it had volume control.
Old 06-09-08, 02:54 AM
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Kris Laes
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Well, mine is a really simple one from pioneer. I tried finding the ones that people on the forum here recommend (scosche and the likes) but they aren't available here in Europe...

You will probably find that the loc has two inputs (left and right channel), it is no problem to connect the wires you tapped from the subwoofer to both.
Old 06-09-08, 08:19 AM
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I took out my factory sub. Tapped into the sub line and lost my mid bass. I disconnected and then tapped into the front L/R door woofers and now it sounds great. I just need to know which is the wire to get a remote turn on for the amp from a non-ML system.
Old 06-09-08, 08:48 AM
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VTLexus
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i believe someone posted the orange wire is the remote turn on. when you say you lost your mid bass, did you lose it from the sub or from the stock speakers? the sub shouldnt play any mid bass should it?
Old 06-09-08, 09:16 AM
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loaked
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I just installed my system last night. I have the NON-ML w/navigation. The remote wire is the orange wire on the harness furthest back to the car.

One thing I found though is that the orange wire only carries a 6.5volt signal, at least mine did for some reason, on a normal car audio system it should carry 12volts. Some amps wont kick on with such a low voltage on the remotire wire. Right now I am using a Nakamichi 400w 2channel amp that works fine. But when I went to hook up my big Mmats 1500w amp it wouldnt even turn on at first, it finally did when I turned on the car, and it just cut in and out. So i tried just running straight 12volts from the power wire over to the remote wire and it worked perfectly, and sounded so much better :`(

I have read a few other forums people having a problem with this orange wire not working, and I belive its becuase of the design of the amp, not a bad design, because technically the remote wire should have 12volts, and not sure if giving it 6~ volts its hurting the amps that do work or not.

Last edited by loaked; 06-09-08 at 09:20 AM.
Old 06-09-08, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by VTLexus
i believe someone posted the orange wire is the remote turn on. when you say you lost your mid bass, did you lose it from the sub or from the stock speakers? the sub shouldnt play any mid bass should it?
I lost midbass to the sub from the sub lines, not the front speakers. There is a noticeable difference, that is why the change I made is now final using the front woofer signal.
Old 06-09-08, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by WhatYaGot
I lost midbass to the sub from the sub lines, not the front speakers. There is a noticeable difference, that is why the change I made is now final using the front woofer signal.
where did you get your LOC?
Old 06-09-08, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by VTLexus
where did you get your LOC?
Wal-Mart - I think it was like $18.00
Old 06-09-08, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by VTLexus
is there a consensus on whether to tap the sub woofer wire alone or combining with the front woofer as well? all my local installers are going to just tap the main subwoofer signal. i may do the install myself, so i'd like to know what i should do.
I have the non-ml system. I used this post's information:

T-tap wires on the front woofer speaker wires. The right front door woofer wires are Brown (+) and Pink (-). The left front door woofer wires are White (+) and Red (-). Or you could just tap the factory sub wires to the new amp. The sub factory wires are sort of confusing on the schematics I have. The wires are either Pink (+) and Sky Blue (-) or Brown (+) and Light Green(-). Just pick the colors that are at the speaker for your install.


Hope this helps
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Old 10-01-09, 08:25 PM
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hey where did you guys tap the sub wires from the back of the car? i have my rear seats out and rear deck and i can't find the damn wires to the sub! i'd rather not take the door panel apart and tap the front woofers, just want to find the wires directly into the sub, i have a non-ML 06 is 350
Old 10-01-09, 08:39 PM
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lol nevermind found them... once i moved the rear deck completely out of the way


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