passnu2

iTrader: (33)

good to hear we are headed in the right direction. on the sides of your amp, if it will allow, it would have speaker wire conectors and one side is input the other is an output. If the amp allows you to wire to the input then you can go right off the OEM wires you are tapping into and feed that into the INPUT section on the amp. If it doesnt allow then it looks like you need to replace the LOC. Not common but these things happen.

Post back again and I will check back!

passnu2

iTrader: (33)

another thing to make sure if your amp does have input/output that you have the speaker wires coming from the right lead meaning "output"....to your Sub.

passnu2

iTrader: (33)

Just checking back in...how is it going??

VTLexus

not sure what you mean by this last post, but here is the update. i removed the LOC and just ran speaker wires to the amp. unfortunately the sub still did not kick. at this point im out of ideas. here is a summary:

- 12.6V at the input to the amp (from battery)
- 12V at remote (direct from battery connection on amp)
- ground wire at amp connected to negative terminal of battery via jumper cables (was suggested in another forum to make sure ground is sound)
- Amp powers on
- taped wires have AC voltage before LOC, no signal apparent on RCAs after LOC
- LOC removed - ran speaker wires into amplifer - still no subwoofer sound
- stock sub still works (tapped stock sub wires)
- Equipment Functional - amp powers a friends subwoofer in his car. and his amp powers my subwoofer in his car.
- polarity of tapped wires, polarity of inputs into amp, and polarity of inputs into terminal cup on subwoofer all double checked OK.

I think I'll just take my car somewhere and have them fix it....

passnu2

iTrader: (33)

on the side or both sides of your amp there will be input for speaker wire and also output (they look the same but one will tell you what it is). so in this case you could run the wires from OEM to the INPUT of the amp if it allows this (not all amps have this feature) and it would act the same as the LOC is for the RCA input. Either way works.

you are running a MONO amp so polarity of the wires wont make any difference although good you checked.

VTLexus

yup that is what i did. my input speaker level wires go into a little 4 square looking connector, looks much diff than the output from teh amp so im sure i did that right.

passnu2

iTrader: (33)

okay...I dont know the wires and how they look since I have ML...but just to confirm the wires I pulled this out of another thread for you. there maybe similar colored wires??

see what this does to help you out. Also after you use the speaker wires for input into the amp make sure you check the line level on the amp to make sure the gain is up about 1/2 way. If you are running one lead to it make sure if it indicates on the amp for mono. sometime you would use the 2 outer leads if its a mono input if that makes sense. if you are running both (all 4 wires) then that wont matter.

okay here is that info:

I would first unhook and probably even remove the factory sub from the car. Then I would T-tap wires on the front woofer speaker wires. The right front door woofer wires are Brown (+) and Pink (-). The left front door woofer wires are White (+) and Red (-). Or you could just tap the factory sub wires to the new amp. The sub factory wires are sort of confusing on the schematics I have. The wires are either Pink (+) and Sky Blue (-) or Brown (+) and Light Green(-). Just pick the colors that are at the speaker for your install.

passnu2

iTrader: (33)

http://my.is/forums/f159/anyone-know...-is350-288899/

i also read here on another forum that the remote is weak back there and they used the red wire from the power outlet in what would be the ash tray.

another good thread to have!
http://my.is/forums/f159/is350-audio...g-info-272171/

passnu2

iTrader: (33)

okay: haha...

if you do not have the OEM sub then here is the correct wire info for you:

The LR woofer wires are pink (+) - purple (-).

The RR woofer wires are red (+) - white (-).

so this gives you another speaker to tap....if you do not have a dedicated SUB on your oem then the other wires that you have followed are wrong and maybe the issues?

VTLexus

that is exactly what i used to wire. i used the pink and sky blue and the brown and light green. the guy in the other forum u linked me to used the brown and pink, which is the front door woofer according to your paragraph. i dunno man, i may have tapped the wrong wires, but at this point i dont think i did unless the nonML has significantly diff colors.

i did tap from the harness that is 2nd from the front of the amp. that guy tapped from the harness at the back of the amp (farthest back in the car, mine was 2nd farthest forward).

VTLexus

where did you get this from? i dont know if i have a dedicated sub or not, i know i dont' have the ML system, and i thought mine came with a sub anyway. u think i should try to tap those? i hate to cut up all my freaking wires trying to get this to work.

passnu2

iTrader: (33)

I just searched...

I have ML so mine is different. I am not sure if the system you have has a sub. To the best of my knowledge you do not have a dedicated sub so following the brown wire as you did I think is wrong unless you do have a separate sub.

try doing this. run the wires from the leads in the info I posted for non sub. you should be able to have the wires go to your amp then put the lose ends of the wire in the wire harness from the back and get contact. just push it in lightly and it will work. then start the car up and try it out. I have a feeling this is going to work and wont require you to cut until we know it will work

passnu2

iTrader: (33)

so you will run the wires from the amp since you already have them wired to the input to these wires on the OEM wire harness:

(left-rear)
The LR woofer wires are pink (+) - purple (-).
(right-rear)
The RR woofer wires are red (+) - white (-).

try this and post me back

VTLexus

sorry, but im not sure i follow what you're saying. i understand ur saying run the new colors to the amp, but the method im not following. ill try to do it soon but im not sure im gonna be able to get to it today. ill keep u posted.

passnu2

iTrader: (33)

where the wires are coming out of the wire harness....if you push the wire that you are using in there is the metal of the prong (or the pin that goes to the amp). If you twist the wire that you are using and push it in with the specific wire color noted above it will fit and make contact with the wire and act like its connected. if this is the right wire method to use it will work

then you can tap into the wires...(cut, solder, ect. however you want) This way you know the wires are correct before you do anymore cutting