lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

So here's what you get after 148k miles on a bone stock engine (down to OEM air filter, both original cats, stock exhaust, and plugs with 42k miles on them) with just a little more boost than stock. FWIW, the dyno operator said this type of dyno typically shows about 30 hp less than a Dynojet in this power range.

Gernby

iTrader: (1)

The break-in guidelines in the owner's manual are written in the simplest way possible to minimize warranty claims. I don't believe in doing high RPMs when the engine has very low miles, but I do think you should do full throttle at low RPMs EVERY time you have a chance in the early miles (without downshifting that will cause high RPMs). After about 50 miles, the engine is probably 90% broken in. After that, the remaining 10% of the engine and drivetrain break-in (loosening up) will lead to more power to the ground.

If I knew then what I know now about the ECT modes, I would use ECT Snow to do quite a bit of WOT in various gears as soon as I left the dealership to maximize the cylinder pressures at low-mid RPMs.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

You missed your window of opportunity. Yours will not likely be one of the "factory freaks" that makes more power than it should. It will still run fine, but it is now what it will always be from a mechanical perspective. My IS was broken in after the first hour of operation. The brakes were fully bedded as well. And no, I didn't flog it after I was done because the transmission and differential were not mated yet as noted above.

Clifton

The purpose of breaking in an engine is to get the rings to seat properly. A ring needs to wear into a cylinder as neither are 100% round. A new newly honed cylinder is pretty rough and will wear the ring a very small amount. Too much pressure and revs may wear more than needed. The owners manual should have a recommendation. Most say to keep the revs and load below 70-80% for how ever many miles. Others say beat on it from the start. I have never done a leak down or measured end gap on back to back engines to know which is best. I have also never bought a new car and build my own engines and can afford if it doesn't make it 200k miles. If I did buy a $35,000 + car I might be a little easy on it for 500 miles.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Seating the rings doesn't require more than 10 minutes. Used pistons and new rings can be done with break-in with a few bursts to WOT. New pistons have not taken full heat load yet and require increasing heat load until they reach full operating temperature and full load, then they need to be allowed to cool progressively. Otherwise they may not hold their shape. A piston crown at full load is in a plastic state which is why the alloy matters when power is important. Everything we put Cosworth pistons in made more power because their alloy is stronger at full temperature than anyone else's we used. Mahle also make excellent pistons from strong alloys, but I don't have a lot of experience with their stuff.

The shape of the piston is critical to performance because a piston that is not round at temperature will not support the ring pack and will allow blowby that should never occur. So I heat new pistons with progressively larger loads until I hit WOT in top gear for 15 seconds. I do this in steps, but if you click on the links I provided, all this is covered in greater detail.

JKA.nyc

I just broke 600 miles, is it too late for me as well?

juice14

HAAA thats funny you mention that I also raced a Charger R/t Daytona edition with all the badges and psss I also beat him pretty good. We were on a roll from about 20 to 65 and he never had a chance.

juice14

OMG. the first one (something youve been doing for years) is so interesting. They gave me my car with 80 miloes already because they had to go pick it up in ATL. im guessing they didnt dirve it pretty hard that sucks.
All i knwo is that form there I did punch it pretty hard. hopefully it will pay off and I will have a factory freak

ecr527

I don't know about driving WOT from day one, but I definitely drove the car the way I drive it now from day one. I didn't baby her either. Although lately I've let off the right pedal a lot due to high gas prices.

darkdream

WOT from day one... =)... although i kept the speeds below triple digits...

XhyDra

iTrader: (8)

Oh man now that you guys bring that up, I did WOT at like a little over 100miles on the ODO, I thought it was bad at the time, I did it for about 20 sec, and then there was another instance that same day at like 1am that I did WOT till I hit 135mph.

IS350jet

It's a very controversial issue. Some believe that the OM is the way to go. Others, like Lobux, say drive it hard from day one. I've always been told that the most important part of breaking in a new engine is to "seat the rings". Now, I'm sure Lexus seats the rings at the factory but could it be better? Yes. The most effective way to seat the rings after the engine is assembled is to do the following:

Make sure the car is in fact "new" (less than 20 miles, preferably fewer)
In the IS, put the car in sport mode and drop it down to 1st gear.
From a dead stop, go to WOT until the engine hits red-line.
Slam the throttle closed and let the car slow using the engine's deceleration.

Do this 5 or 6 times and you're done. The rings are now seated better than if the car were babied.

Now, you can take it easy for the next 600-800 miles for the rest of the mechanicals of the car.

I'm not saying this is the absolute right way to do it, it's just how I was taught since I was a kid building small block Chevy's.

greg0723

i have the awd with 200hp its slow anyway so does it matter? and whats WOT?

juice14

21 yes
19 no

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

There's no *** in it. That would be WFO which is the same as WOT.