Cioffdaddy

I am planning to install a sound system in my IS250. I know you can run the power wire from the battery to the trunk under the plastic trim panels by the doors, but does anyone know if a 0 gauge wire will fit under there? I know it's a pretty fat wire, and I'd just like to know before I buy it. I could always use 4 gauge or two 4 gauge wires if necessary. Thanks in advance

AM1

iTrader: (6)

the system in my car is wired with 2 gauge. its pretty tight in there.

Jefe's IS

What guage do they use to run 220 or 110 in your house?

carlos

iTrader: (1)

I ran 0 gauge wire in my car. There is a rubber boot behind the battery. I cut a hole in it and ran the wire through there.

Gus738

wow 0 guage thats thick If you are going to run that much huge amount of power shouldnt you invest in a High output alt/starter?

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Normally around 14 gauge for 120v and 8-10 for 240v appliances.

Jefe's IS

Why would you need 0 gauge for a 12v system?

In the hydraulic analogy sometimes used to explain electric circuits by comparing them to water-filled pipes, voltage is likened to water pressure – it determines how quickly the electrons will travel through the circuit. Current (in amperes), in the same analogy, is a measure of the volume of water that flows past a given point per unit time (volumetric flow rate). The flow rate is determined by the width of the pipe (analogous to electrical resistance) and the pressure difference between the front end of the pipe and the exit (potential difference or voltage). The analogy extends to power dissipation: the power given up by the water flow is equal to flow rate times pressure, just as the power dissipated in a resistor is equal to current times the voltage drop across the resistor (amperes x volts = watts).

The relationship between voltage and current (in ohmic devices) is defined by Ohm's Law.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

That analogy explains it.

Lets assume we need a 1200w source. In an AC setup, that equals to about 120v and 10A. In DC, that translate into 12v and 100A. Try stuffing that 100A of electrons through a small 14 gauge...

Gus738

My point to this is that he would have to do the big 3 upgrade a high output alternator/starter, For a demanding sound system, What setup are you going to run op?

Cioffdaddy

The system I am planning will have the capacity to do 1200W RMS. That's pushing it for a 4 gauge wire. I might be able to get away with a 4 gauge but as long as it won't be a pain to install, there's no reason not to go with 0 gauge.

That's why I want to know if anyone has installed a 0 gauge and if they we able to fit it underneath the plastic panels without it bulging out or something. I could plan on running two 4 gauge wires if that might fit better.

SICLEX

Jefe did a good job explaining an abstract of how electron flow in a large or small medium can effect current flow. Also there is a little more to it than that. here in a vehicle the application is finicky to say at times. Mainly because of the fact the source or altenator in each vehicle has a limited output or exceeding dependant on vehicle and application of "small" or "large" systems that require certain amount of power.
Anywho with that said in my IS I installed the kenwood 8120 with fr and rr focal 165 K2P, JL 1000/1 and 300/4. I ran Stinger 0 gauge front to rear no problem once you pull the carpet on the passengers side there is a boot that accesses the battery quite easily. and the "ridge" or space between the seats and outer rocker panels allow good room for the o gauge, back-up camera, rca, etc I have ran to the rear and I didnt run into a bulging of the carpet or panels not fitting back correctly; (once I took the rear seat out I did use a unibit to put a hole large enough for a "snap gasket" in for the 0 gauge so it could be cut etc by going through the rear). Its well worth to do the extra gauge wire. bc its just not the fact that you need big wire ofcoarse for current supply of a strenuous setup but the fact when you need to have large amounts of power supplied to equipment when you have it cranked that you can also "clip" other equipment as on board computer and amplifiers when you limit current flow using too small of wire when your amps peak and introduce more heat, distortion to your amplifiers bc of loss of power input for the transistors, FETS, etc dependant on design to amplify the signal or gain imput to a larger output..which if is limited imput it will clip catching the peak of the wave "shorting" the device shortly causing damage...also do understand this is if you have a proper source altenator and powercell to supply your components......sorry to ramble

Cioffdaddy

Thanks for the info SICLEX, I will plan on going with the 0 gauge then. I didn't understand the part about the "snap gasket" though:

Where did you put the gasket, and why would you want to cut the wire?

Also, did you feel the need to upgrade your battery or alternator with your setup?

Gus738

then im assuming you are going to do HO alternator? and the big 3?

SICLEX

I call it a snap gasket...I just recalled the right word I meant to use a plastic grommet...you know its what you use i guess in this case when you put a wire through metal to make sure you dont get direct contact with a positively charged wire or any wire so it doesnt rub and get cut by the metal..so yea


And honestly compared to a GM vehicle and its onboard computer and electrical which I believe needs a higher rms and voltage to run than on most european vehicle i "think" ( haven't done any research to be sure so dont quote me! I know my professors would reem me for guessing lolol) that they have less stress or pull on the battery and have an efficient altenator bc the fact dont have any runnning issues or dimming lights, etc, or any service light that I have seen on "american" vehicles ...just for the fact ive owned a 98 camaro and frc coupe and under strain after big three on my vette an altenator etc still had issues so..yeah and ofcoarse again setup depends but yea....no i didnt do the big three I ran a direct negative 0 gauge wire as well lol should have said that. Also the "BIG 3" from its importance the way I see it is to properly ground the chassis and other components best as possible..eeeh and so yeah true but I have factory ignition system etc, and dnt think it would even effect the factory setup or give me a noticeable difference in my setup for the price. I figure an altenator if I called a friend Neil McSweeney from Stinger for one if its possible with bracket would be give or take would be about 900 and ehh I dunno. I have a kinetic powercell which doesnt have normal discharge issue as a "battery" and supplies almost twice output cranking amps as factory and a little more capacity so that fo r$250 was worth it..and I really choose not to modify or change the altenator for reasons I havent seen any signs or have a setup I "believe" requires an "upgrade"....

Cioffdaddy

I plan on doing the big 1 - upgrading the battery ground wire to 0 gauge. The other two parts (upgrading the alternator wiring) aren't necessary if you aren't going to get a higher output alternator, which I'm not planning on. I might get a better battery though.

Thanks to everybody for your help.