Got wheels but won't clear brakes! Help.
03-31-09, 03:31 PM
#17
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as far as i remember.... Rojas do not carry high low disk....... so in this case... the bolt pattern is correct the last thing is actually the offset....and i think we should stop "dis"-ing jav.... he is most probably right this time =)
03-31-09, 03:40 PM
#18
I think we're stuck on semantics here. Of course the disk is an important factor - I never said it wasn't - but it is by no means the sole and deciding factor (i.e. shape of spoke, whether the wheel is a 'lip' wheel, etc...) If this particular wheel doesn't offer more than one type of disk, the only variables left are wheel sizes and offset. I'm reasonably sure (not 100%) that these Roja's aren't offered in 'high' and 'low' disk versions, so that would have to be verified.
Javier
Javier
03-31-09, 03:45 PM
#19
I think we're stuck on semantics here. Of course the disk is an important factor - I never said it wasn't - but it is by no means the sole and deciding factor (i.e. shape of spoke, whether the wheel is a 'lip' wheel, etc...) If this particular wheel doesn't offer more than one type of disk, the only variables left are wheel sizes and offset. I'm reasonably sure (not 100%) that these Roja's aren't offered in 'high' and 'low' disk versions, so that would have to be verified.
Javier
Javier
I still remember in the mid 90s when the Supra TT had the hardest time finding wheels cause of the stock front calipers. There weren't that many cars with huge brakes back in the day.
If a wheel manufacturer does not make a high disk wheel then it was not meant for the that car period. Of course anyone can make a wheel "fit".
You can use spacers all you want, the fact is you will change the geometry of your suspension and load stress on ball joints, lugs etc.
Like I said just for information and not dissing anyone.
03-31-09, 09:52 PM
#20
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I had the same issues with my T1S which came off of a 250. As soon as the guy installed the wheel and spun it, it hit my brakes and we both realized that spacers were needed. The shop got me some 5mm spacers and it barely cleared the brakes. I wanted the wheels to be flushed with the fender so 5mm was just perfect. I also got some extended lug nuts just to be safe.
03-31-09, 11:07 PM
#21
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I'm sure these wheels will clear an IS250 brake system just fine... 
How about some more detailed info..
Like size for starters.. 18x7, 18x8 or 18x9???
There should be something stamped on the inner face of the wheels...
The design of the spoke seem straight enough, so its an offset issue..
How about some more detailed info..
Like size for starters.. 18x7, 18x8 or 18x9???
There should be something stamped on the inner face of the wheels...
The design of the spoke seem straight enough, so its an offset issue..
03-31-09, 11:50 PM
#23
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lol as stated, generally brake clearance is decided by disk size. this can either mean more or less dish on multi piece wheels, or more or less concave on the face of the wheel on monoblock type wheels (or a combo of both).
however in the situation where a wheel is just what it is width and offset, then it IS the offset that determines if it fits.
and you cant say because for example +40 offset fouls, and +30 doesnt, that this wheel 'isnt meant for that car' rah rah. there is a lot that comes into it like ride height, camber, tyre size & make, stock fenders or rolled, if you want flush or tucked, etc etc
i reckon you guys are both pretty much right from different sides haha
And as for the spacers, slip on ones such as 5mm are probably the worst type you can get because even if they are matched to the internal hub ring on your car's hubs, the spacer itself is just slipped on which can cause it to move & also the spacer itself wont have any hub ring coming off it for your wheels to sit on. If you have the room its better to go to at least 15mm as in this size you can get bolt on ones.
bolt on ones are better as they sold securely and all is good. and people who say they put more load and stress etc etc, well they only put as much load as a wheel with that offset would normally put, and if these ones hit his brakes then chances are others are running lower offsets so as not to hit brakes....
however in the situation where a wheel is just what it is width and offset, then it IS the offset that determines if it fits.
and you cant say because for example +40 offset fouls, and +30 doesnt, that this wheel 'isnt meant for that car' rah rah. there is a lot that comes into it like ride height, camber, tyre size & make, stock fenders or rolled, if you want flush or tucked, etc etc
i reckon you guys are both pretty much right from different sides haha
And as for the spacers, slip on ones such as 5mm are probably the worst type you can get because even if they are matched to the internal hub ring on your car's hubs, the spacer itself is just slipped on which can cause it to move & also the spacer itself wont have any hub ring coming off it for your wheels to sit on. If you have the room its better to go to at least 15mm as in this size you can get bolt on ones.
bolt on ones are better as they sold securely and all is good. and people who say they put more load and stress etc etc, well they only put as much load as a wheel with that offset would normally put, and if these ones hit his brakes then chances are others are running lower offsets so as not to hit brakes....
LOL i need a 5 mm spacer though...
04-01-09, 06:09 AM
#26
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I had the same issues with my T1S which came off of a 250. As soon as the guy installed the wheel and spun it, it hit my brakes and we both realized that spacers were needed. The shop got me some 5mm spacers and it barely cleared the brakes. I wanted the wheels to be flushed with the fender so 5mm was just perfect. I also got some extended lug nuts just to be safe.
The Roja's would probably clear a 250 with no problem, but I have a 350.
04-01-09, 08:50 AM
#28
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But, if we know this wheel spoke design is nearly flat (as shown), and we know its made only in one disk type....
All we have left is rim size & offset to examine. (in this case)
See what we are saying..
Just posting the below, for informational purposes..
Originally Posted by Tire Rack.com
Offset
The offset of a wheel is the distance from its hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel. The offset can be one of three types (measured in millimeters).*
Zero Offset
The hub mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel.
Positive
The hub mounting surface is toward the front or wheel side of the wheel. Positive offset wheels are generally found on front wheel drive cars and newer rear drive cars.
Negative
The hub mounting surface is toward the back or brake side of the wheels centerline. "Deep dish" wheels are typically a negative offset.
If the offset of the wheel is not correct for the car, the handling can be adversely affected. When the width of the wheel changes, the offset also changes numerically. If the offset were to stay the same while you added width, the additional width would be split evenly between the inside and outside. For most cars, this won't work correctly. We have test fitted thousands of different vehicles for proper fitment. Our extensive database allows our sales staff to offer you the perfect fit for your vehicle.
*Backspacing, similar to offset, is the distance from the hub mounting surface to the inside lip of the wheel (measured in inches).
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