Hid fog decision time
#33
#34
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Well if I get this right, since the HIDs are being run straight from the battery, and the relay is triggered by whatever you want to trigger it, all you have to do is wire the relay trigger to whatever you want.
My friend just hooked it to the parking light circuit, his fogs are on anytime the parking lights are, simple, effective.
I'm planning on having it that way, or switched to the regular fog circuit, two positions. A matching 3 way switch that would go in one of the Lexus spots for switches would be great, a fog over-ride so to speak. If such a switch exists it would be the way to go.
But I'm planning on a hidden two way under the dash.
My friend just hooked it to the parking light circuit, his fogs are on anytime the parking lights are, simple, effective.
I'm planning on having it that way, or switched to the regular fog circuit, two positions. A matching 3 way switch that would go in one of the Lexus spots for switches would be great, a fog over-ride so to speak. If such a switch exists it would be the way to go.
But I'm planning on a hidden two way under the dash.
#35
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Got the Xenon Depot kit installed today, taking off that bumper isn't really a big hassle, definitely the way to do it.
I did splice in a 12 gauge extension to the driver's side power line on the harness, ran it through the aluminum bumper. The bumper is also ideal for mounting the wiring harness relays and the igniters, just slide them in the ends with a little closed cell foam (doesn't absorb water) to keep them from rattling.
I was going to pull the aluminum bumper off to bolt in the ballasts after drilling a couple of holes in each side, but with the double sided tape and zip ties on the passenger side, and the same with a piece of closed cell foam on the driver's side (between the washer tank and ballast) they're plenty secure.
If, at a later date I want to mount them with bolts and locknuts, it'll be easy to do.
Now the bumper is a pain in the ***, and I still need to pull it to redo one bottom clip, but's it on there, and there is no way I would want to try to work through the fender liners to do this installation, especially with the direct to battery wiring harness with it's relay for each side.
Of course I'm told you can even hook this kit up with out the power harness for each side, that the stock harness supplies enough voltage/amperage for the system to start and run, I think you have to reverse polarity on the connector, but why would you want to do this?
Running the ballasts off the + battery terminal is clearly superior, when I installed the Cibie headlights in my Jeep, I ran a very nice Susquehanna shielded harness with 12 gauge wiring, which lets me run even the 130/100 Hella Yellow Star bulbs without problems of dimmness, overheated wiring, melted connectors, blown fuses or other problems.
Ran the dual power wires (for the dual wiring harnesses) to the bolt on top of the + battery terminal, just replaced the ring terminal with a larger one, covered the wire with black split tubing and ran it next to the one already there, over the shock mount with another bundle, then around the air box and down to the passenger side foglight. The dual fuses can be accessed without even pulling the engine cover.
Flipped the lights on in the garage with door closed and WOW, they're bright, super frigging BRIGHT, and YELLOW.
This is the 3K Xenon Depot Xtreme kit, with Aerotec yellow overlays, and even though I have to wait hours for it to get dark, I'm mighty glad I went with this kit.
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