Specifically NON NAV/ML Audio Setup owners
01-20-10, 10:01 PM
#1
Specifically NON NAV/ML Audio Setup owners
Ok well the audio section doesn't get much notice and I need an answer ASAP.
I was helping my friend install his aftermarket amp and sub system on his 07 IS250. I have the same year but he does NOT have navigation. Wouldn't all the wiring for the audio system be the same? In the back where the Factory amp is the connections are EXACTLY the same. I installed my RF amp and JL sub by myself and it works perfectly fine. I did the same exact hook up to my friends IS. But his isn't working? can anyone chime in if the IS WITHOUT Navigation has possibly different wiring behind the head unit compared to WITH navi??? The power to the amp is on but the sub does NOT push out ANYTHING. I T-tapped pink and skyblue for the sub output just like my car (and tested brown+ green-)but his car seems to not get any signal for the subwoofer... I also did trial and error and hooked up my sub and amp to his car and it still doesn't work.. any suggestions please???
I was helping my friend install his aftermarket amp and sub system on his 07 IS250. I have the same year but he does NOT have navigation. Wouldn't all the wiring for the audio system be the same? In the back where the Factory amp is the connections are EXACTLY the same. I installed my RF amp and JL sub by myself and it works perfectly fine. I did the same exact hook up to my friends IS. But his isn't working? can anyone chime in if the IS WITHOUT Navigation has possibly different wiring behind the head unit compared to WITH navi??? The power to the amp is on but the sub does NOT push out ANYTHING. I T-tapped pink and skyblue for the sub output just like my car (and tested brown+ green-)but his car seems to not get any signal for the subwoofer... I also did trial and error and hooked up my sub and amp to his car and it still doesn't work.. any suggestions please???
01-21-10, 01:54 PM
#3
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i used the thread in the FAQ for the wiring on my NON NAVI IS and it works just fine so wiring should be the same....check ur t-taps sometime they dont make a good enough connection.
01-21-10, 02:23 PM
#4
everything off the amp should be the same. unless you have ml. i set mine up my self and helped another cl member with theirs. if you both have non ml. because the ml amps are different.
off of the install thread
for the remote wire. run it to the driver side footwell fuse box. and use one of the empty fuses. and find the one that has no power when the car is off, and has power when the car is on. SAME EXACT WAY I DID MINE AND MY FRIENDS.
P.S. when he is talking about tapping the wires, he is saying tap them off the harness from the amp. not in the actual doors
hope this helps
off of the install thread
I would first unhook and probably even remove the factory sub from the car. Then I would T-tap wires on the front woofer speaker wires. The right front door woofer wires are Brown (+) and Pink (-). The left front door woofer wires are White (+) and Red (-). Or you could just tap the factory sub wires to the new amp. The sub factory wires are sort of confusing on the schematics I have. The wires are either Pink (+) and Sky Blue (-) or Brown (+) and Light Green(-). Just pick the colors that are at the speaker for your install.
Run the tapped wires to a speaker to RCA level convertor and then onto an amp. The turn on wire should be tapped from either the red or orange wires on the main wiring plug. Use a mutimeter to test which wire to use. The one you want to use has power only when the ignition is turned on. Or some amps allow the speaker wires to be run directly to their inputs and will automatically turn on when they sense a signal on the speaker wires. (JL Audio slash series amps and the 2006 lineup of MTX amps will do this.) I would use the crossover on the amp. Then all you have to do is pick your amp and sub. This setup will allow the sub to play the same levels as the front speakers at all times.
Hope this helps
Run the tapped wires to a speaker to RCA level convertor and then onto an amp. The turn on wire should be tapped from either the red or orange wires on the main wiring plug. Use a mutimeter to test which wire to use. The one you want to use has power only when the ignition is turned on. Or some amps allow the speaker wires to be run directly to their inputs and will automatically turn on when they sense a signal on the speaker wires. (JL Audio slash series amps and the 2006 lineup of MTX amps will do this.) I would use the crossover on the amp. Then all you have to do is pick your amp and sub. This setup will allow the sub to play the same levels as the front speakers at all times.
Hope this helps
P.S. when he is talking about tapping the wires, he is saying tap them off the harness from the amp. not in the actual doors
hope this helps
01-27-10, 05:18 PM
#5
Thanks for the reply guys but i already did all those things. The sub wire colors are pink and brown is positive and skyblue and green is negative. I only tapped one pair for sub signal in my car. I tapped white and red for the front speaker but still havent done the other side speaker. Im thinking it might be a bad scosche loc because now i tried tapping all four sub wires. Still a no go. The amp power is ON. Theres just no sub signal and its so weird! The factory sub is disconnected
01-27-10, 05:23 PM
#6
Btw theres no need to run wires for remote. The third connector (from left to right) looking at your amp from outside your car (or up to down) the last thin orange wire on tht third connector is your remote wire (turn on wire) its off when the cars off
02-05-10, 08:34 PM
#7
Im still grinding my teeth on this. Any other suggestions? Mysetup is working conpletely and i installed MINE MYSELF but i have navi.
I did everything the exact same way on my friends car but he has no navi. Amp is on but no sub signals.. I assume the amp shoul be the same as my non ml setup.
I did everything the exact same way on my friends car but he has no navi. Amp is on but no sub signals.. I assume the amp shoul be the same as my non ml setup.
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02-05-10, 08:51 PM
#8
What you want to do is get a 9 volt battery and touch each side of the speaker wire to each side of the battery. + side of speaker wire to + side of battery and - side of speaker wire to - side of battery. You should then hear a small pop from that speaker. This is a good way to find a speaker or find speaker wires. Dont worry if you get the + and - wrong when doing this procedure, the speaker will just pop out of phase instead of in.
In your case, if you dont hear a pop from the speaker, then you have the wrong wires hooked up. If alls is good then most likely its your LOC
In your case, if you dont hear a pop from the speaker, then you have the wrong wires hooked up. If alls is good then most likely its your LOC
02-05-10, 10:10 PM
#9
^^^ thanks i guess ill have to test if i got the right speaker wires. But im 100 percent positive they are t tapped properly with the right speaker wires. I thought about the loc being bad. Guess ill have to swap out my loc to his to see if it works. Thanks!
02-06-10, 07:17 AM
#11
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It does. I just installed a system in my cousins car last night with no problems. It might be a bad LOC. Or the taps into the speaker wires aren't good enough, I've had that happen to me before.
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