Lexus IS250 4GR-FSE Engine Carbon Build-up (merged threads)
#391
Pole Position
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OMG.... Can a guy say that? Or is it only for girls?
Any way this is definitely turning interesting.
So i started using chevron exclusively but could not see any quick results so the impatient bstrd in me threw in 20 oz of techron concentrate too. Let it run the whole tankful and one more chevron tank and still saw no difference.
The impatient me then threw in a bottle of the new Lucas deep clean with a new tank of chevron gas last week. By the time i got to 'E', the engine idle had improved. Wtf.
I also checked the oil level and that is good but my mobil1 synthetic oil has turned dark and it has only 1000 miles on it.
Does rhis cleaning really worked? Or am i dreaming?
Any way this is definitely turning interesting.
So i started using chevron exclusively but could not see any quick results so the impatient bstrd in me threw in 20 oz of techron concentrate too. Let it run the whole tankful and one more chevron tank and still saw no difference.
The impatient me then threw in a bottle of the new Lucas deep clean with a new tank of chevron gas last week. By the time i got to 'E', the engine idle had improved. Wtf.
I also checked the oil level and that is good but my mobil1 synthetic oil has turned dark and it has only 1000 miles on it.
Does rhis cleaning really worked? Or am i dreaming?
Some sort of regular schedule of induction service where the cleaning chemical is slowly introduced as a mist at the throttle body would probably keep things clean if they are already clean otherwise the only solution to getting it cleaned out is the TSB procedure to physically dump the cleaner onto the valves from the top and let it marinate.
At this point I'm not sure what would be more effective and economic, to just let it do it's thing and eventually pay a few hundred dollars for the top engine clean procedure every 60,000 miles or so or to pay for induction service at some more frequent schedule.
#392
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My thinking is to have at BG type induction service performed annually. Say every 10k or 20k miles??? idk? Large buildup on the back side of the valves should be prevented if cleaned annually. This also should prevent large pieces of carbon from falling off the valves and into the combustion chamber. This is what I think was starting to occur in my engine.
IMO, it's these large chunks of carbon in the chamber that the TSB is designed to remove after the fact. But i want to prevent the buildup from ever getting to that level again.
The BG induction service also cleans the combustion chamber. My hope it that I won't have to do the TSB again with a regular induction service schedule.
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The BG induction service also cleans the combustion chamber. My hope it that I won't have to do the TSB again with a regular induction service schedule.
Last edited by Gaugster; 11-24-10 at 07:58 AM.
#394
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And as far as Techron goes, I've done that experiment in the past 30k ago and it didn't yield any interesting or functional results. Same issue over and over.
Last edited by XhyDra; 11-24-10 at 09:50 AM.
#395
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I agree that our carbon buildup problems are from fuel, not oil. I also agree that the deposits shouldn't look like the RS4 valves a few posts up.
Though carbon may absorb fuel vapors, it is not true that it could prevent any amount of fuel from entering the combustion chamber in our particular engines -- direct injection takes care of that. If bad enough, the only thing the carbon can do is prevent the valves from closing completely - causing a loss of compression and power, or cause an airflow restriction.
I cannot believe there would be so much carbon in the intake port that the airflow could be restricted enough in 10,000 - 20,000 miles, where some people are reporting the problem. Secondly, I would think the force (impact) of the valve against the valve seal would prevent accumulations of carbon on these surfaces. If both of these assumptions are true, the valve should be operating just fine in the presence of carbon, and the real cause of the issue is elsewhere. Comments?
Though carbon may absorb fuel vapors, it is not true that it could prevent any amount of fuel from entering the combustion chamber in our particular engines -- direct injection takes care of that. If bad enough, the only thing the carbon can do is prevent the valves from closing completely - causing a loss of compression and power, or cause an airflow restriction.
I cannot believe there would be so much carbon in the intake port that the airflow could be restricted enough in 10,000 - 20,000 miles, where some people are reporting the problem. Secondly, I would think the force (impact) of the valve against the valve seal would prevent accumulations of carbon on these surfaces. If both of these assumptions are true, the valve should be operating just fine in the presence of carbon, and the real cause of the issue is elsewhere. Comments?
For some reason, I think this has to do with the VVTI, cam phasing when coming to a stop too quick and maybe that the engine is too lean (read less power) and therefore experience a momentary drop in RPM(That is why the idle goes down to 500). I almost have it down to a science and make it happen on demand. If I come gently to a stop, the RPM stays at a nice 750 at idle. Which makes me believe that the ECU needs time to change AF ratio or the CAM or the fuel injector operation.
#397
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Am I foolish in thinking that carbon the backside of the valve cannot cause problems? The surfaces that come in contact with each other will never have any carbon deposits. The surfaces that remain untouched and not functional are the ones where the carbon would be deposited.
For some reason, I think this has to do with the VVTI, cam phasing when coming to a stop too quick and maybe that the engine is too lean (read less power) and therefore experience a momentary drop in RPM(That is why the idle goes down to 500). I almost have it down to a science and make it happen on demand. If I come gently to a stop, the RPM stays at a nice 750 at idle. Which makes me believe that the ECU needs time to change AF ratio or the CAM or the fuel injector operation.
For some reason, I think this has to do with the VVTI, cam phasing when coming to a stop too quick and maybe that the engine is too lean (read less power) and therefore experience a momentary drop in RPM(That is why the idle goes down to 500). I almost have it down to a science and make it happen on demand. If I come gently to a stop, the RPM stays at a nice 750 at idle. Which makes me believe that the ECU needs time to change AF ratio or the CAM or the fuel injector operation.
I noticed what seemed like different types of carbon deposits (Oily vs. Ashy) on the primary and secondary intake valves. So it believe that cam timing has something to do with it. Also the cam timing is used for EGR.
The RPM drop might be related to the engine switching from Stoich to Stratified injection mode. idk?
#398
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Above 5k is not my usual rpm range so not qualified to say how it should behave there.
But the coming to stop idle rpm drop...how do we even verify what is happening with the af ratio?
But the coming to stop idle rpm drop...how do we even verify what is happening with the af ratio?
#400
Lexus Fanatic
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Tell them you want their denial of warranty service in writing, including, as required by federal law under the Mangunson Moss Act, a copy of their proof that the aftermarket parts on your car caused the problem they are refusing to fix.
If anyone you speak to refuses to provide that, and still refuses to schedule the repair, ask to speak to their boss.
If necessary keep going up the chain to the dealership owner... but once you mention the federal law that makes what they're doing illegal you probably won't need to.
#401
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I haven't seen the specific legal documentation carmakers are bound to on this, but in many types of products, modification to the original product completely voids your warranty and completely releases the manufacturer.
I know when I ship a software product, if the customer decides to go on a tweak hunt and starts adjusting things that were not designed to be tweaked by the end-user, if they call me after they've painted themselves in a corner I tell them to get stuffed. I can ship them an update but it's going overwrite their changes. If I were a car dealer I would require all stock parts before I even put it on the rack.
Sorry, but tweak it and you own it.
I know when I ship a software product, if the customer decides to go on a tweak hunt and starts adjusting things that were not designed to be tweaked by the end-user, if they call me after they've painted themselves in a corner I tell them to get stuffed. I can ship them an update but it's going overwrite their changes. If I were a car dealer I would require all stock parts before I even put it on the rack.
Sorry, but tweak it and you own it.
#402
Lexus Fanatic
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I haven't seen the specific legal documentation carmakers are bound to on this, but in many types of products, modification to the original product completely voids your warranty and completely releases the manufacturer.
I know when I ship a software product, if the customer decides to go on a tweak hunt and starts adjusting things that were not designed to be tweaked by the end-user, if they call me after they've painted themselves in a corner I tell them to get stuffed. I can ship them an update but it's going overwrite their changes. If I were a car dealer I would require all stock parts before I even put it on the rack.
Sorry, but tweak it and you own it.
I know when I ship a software product, if the customer decides to go on a tweak hunt and starts adjusting things that were not designed to be tweaked by the end-user, if they call me after they've painted themselves in a corner I tell them to get stuffed. I can ship them an update but it's going overwrite their changes. If I were a car dealer I would require all stock parts before I even put it on the rack.
Sorry, but tweak it and you own it.
I already told you the law involved.
A new car warranty can not, by federal law, be "voided" simply by modifications.
To deny warranty coverage for a specific issue the warrantor must prove that the issue was caused by the modification. And even then the entire full warranty remains in force for any other issues not caused by modifications.
In case you're wondering why the law works this way I'll give you an example-
I sell X brand cars.
I condition my warranty that if you use any aftermarket parts the warranty is void.
I now price my X brand oil filters at $500 per filter. My brake pads are $250. Per wheel. I also sell X brand oil, $50 per quart. And X brand air filters, also $500 each.
You're kinda screwed now, aren't you?
Thus the Mangunson Moss act forbids denial of warranty coverage for use of any aftermarket part unless they can prove the part caused the problem.
Likewise, they can't condition the warranty on having your maintenance done by the dealership unless it's free.
Basically any time you'd have to pay for anything (a part, or service) while the car is under warranty, you are free to get that part or service from any person or company you wish...and your warranty remains 100% valid unless the problem is caused by that person doing the service or the aftermarket part used. And even then it remains 100% valid for anything not caused by that person/part.
This keeps the car maker/dealer from having a monopoly on parts and service.
Last edited by Kurtz; 12-10-10 at 05:50 AM.
#404
Lexus Fanatic
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I've never had an issue go past contacting corporate myself (with any car maker)... including one, specific to Lexus, where the amount it "cost" them to give me what I was asking for was a lot more than the cost of an engine cleaning.
For Mangunson Moss issues specifically I've never even had to go that far... usually just mentioning you're aware of the law is sufficient to get them to do what they're legally required to. Polite, but firmly aware of your legal rights, usually works pretty well.