MIA_LEX

iTrader: (4)

i just dropped my car off at the dealer. Service adviser called me out of no where and told me to bring my car in. Now they have it for the night and are sticking a special camera to read the part numbers off of my pistons. He said if my pistons have a certain part number that he would perform the operation, and i asked him if not? His reply was he said hes going to help me solve the problem... I do not know what is going to happen till tomorrow, hopefully all goes well....

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Power voltage problem with no explanation? Of all the problems you might have, electrical issues are the rarest on Toyota vehicles. Doesn't mean it can't/won't/doesn't happen, but it's really unusual.

Did they blame your battery?

Interestingly enough, the B2784 code is for an open/shorted antenna coil in the smart key system. You've got a curious set of DTCs in your printout.

AWDis250

That's all he told me. He however, did blame it on my battery though..
Should I worry?

PandaBear

iTrader: (1)

Got a misfire while backing out of the driveway, bring it in to the dealer and they spend 2 days figuring things out. Not reproduce-able after clearing the code: P0300/P0101/P0105. What do they stand for?

No cleaning performed afterward. IS250 RWD 08 at 40.5k miles.

J3ffrey

See this is the problem - here I am just a normal Lexus owner. I don't beat on the car much, don't mod it at all. I'm just happy with it running.

So what I'm seeing is a possible defect and my car has recently had the problem once.

First thing is, I'm not paying ANYTHING for them to try and diagnose the car and then tell me it's fine. I know it's not FINE and this thread is proof that things are NOT FINE with the car.

Meanwhile my miles click closer and closer to 70k. I swear if I have a useless car at 71k - I don't know what I'll do.

PandaBear

iTrader: (1)

Most likely you have to either pay for a job to take out the intake manifold and clean the intake valve directly, or do it yourself.

HAiS250

iTrader: (10)

Try using a can of BG 44k fuel injector cleaner. Doesn't that help "clean" the carbon build up?

KillaIS250

iTrader: (1)

No, because i believe Kurtz already explained earlier that since our motors are direct injection using any fuel cleaning additives will not make a difference in attacking the actual carbon build up issue. Driving the car hard will though.

Kurtz

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, fuel never touches the top of the intake valves on the 250... that's why the 250 has this problem in the first place and the 350 doesn't... because on the 350 the carbon deposits on the valves get cleaned off regularly by the fuel.

So a fuel additive won't fix anything here.

HAiS250

iTrader: (10)

WOT once a day?

KillaIS250

iTrader: (1)

I don't know about once a day, or how often you should, but i drive the car hard the last few 20-30 miles of each tank at least until the gas light comes on.

CypressIS

I finally got it to throw a code today using the advice from earlier in the thread. When I came to a stop, the engine began idling roughly as it does on occasion. I had the A/C running. When I noticed the shake in the steering wheel, I put the transmission in neutral and rev'ed the engine to about 6k RPM real quick and let off the pedal. No WOT. As soon as the RPMs dropped back down I put the transmission into Drive (foot still on brake) and immediately got the CEL along with a 'Check VSC' message, an exclamation mark icon, and the traction control disabled indicator (I think that's what that is -- skidding car icon).
At this point the engine began to run terribly. It felt like I would imagine a cylinder misfiring. As I proceeded to drive along the car would significantly shake increasingly with RPM. To the best I could tell, the car wouldn't let me go beyond about 2200 RPM. I didn't try hitting the throttle hard or anything at this point. The car was most certainly 'limping', providing very little acceleration power, to the point where traffic was going around me.

When I was able to safely pull off the road I cut the engine. After about 5 minutes I restarted it, and here's what surprised me, it was like nothing ever happened. No signs of codes/CEL on the dash, and the idle was smooth. I proceeded to drive home and the RPMs seemed to be no longer limited and the power restored (to the extent it was prior to the incident).

I contacted my Lexus service rep and of course they can't get me in tomorrow, nor would he commit to being able to retrieve the code from the history. I don't have much choice though, so I'm taking it to them on Friday.

So I'm looking for answers or opinions on the following:

1) What are my chances that the dealer will indeed be able to retrieve the fault from the ECU which will lead to a TEC or any other L-SB procedure to fix the problem (however temporary)?

2) What in the heck was the deal with my car after I rev'ed the engine, and why did it all go away when I restarted it?

tobyman

this is why i unfortunately had to lemon my car after taking it to the dealer almost 12 times for this issue.

had an 07 IS250 (that was purchased in oct 2006). lemon'd it in dec 2010 and got back about 90% of what i paid for it.

key is to keep all your paperwork from the dealer from all the times that you take in your car.

MIA_LEX

iTrader: (4)

I dropped my car off this morning to get the pistons replaced. I get it back thursday, my car has never stalled on me nor thrown any codes and my dealership still took care of me. Talk about commitment. JM LEXUS IS GREAT!! we didnt even buy the car there.. I will post back in here when I get my car and let people know what I think of the work they did on it.

mickificki

glad to hear they're taking care of you.

i'm still waiting for our car to stutter and throw a code so i can take it back in...waiting...waiting...