B16da9

iTrader: (7)

Jeff, I'm going to be doing this maintenance to my car soon and while looking through the parts I noticed that the PVC valve is also accessible once the Intake manifold is removed. I looked it up and the part is $4.00. Do you think it's worth it?

VALVE SUB-ASSEMBLY, VENTILATION (RWD - REAR WHEEL DRIVE) (MTM - MANUAL TRANSMISSION)
Part #: 1220431040 (In Stock)

DonMerdjan

Thanks a lot for the DIY guide. It turns out that my saving would be higher if I do it myself.
Here in Annapolis, MD, the local dealer quoted me $686.80 for spark plugs replacement! Parts $214.20 and Labor $472.60.

So far, I spent $120 for the plugs from Sewell, plus $20 for the gaskets, $20 more for tools, and if I pay myself $50/h, for approximate 3 hours, my own total would be around $300. So I have almost $400 in savings.

Thanks again,
Don

mske390

Absolutely! My car just passed 60K so they quoted me $74 to replace this $4 piece.

sgmbab

iTrader: (1)

Can anyone help me figure out the torque specs for all these bolts and nuts that was removed?

maniacbob

iTrader: (1)

I couldn't put that 12mm in the back, back. So I left it out. I hope that won't be necessary for something to work.

2slixx

iTrader: (3)

Any other recommendations as far as spark plugs go? Or should I just go with the Denso iridium spark plugs?

Rane2016

So replacing the gaskets are absolutely necessary??

Can anyone verify the correct part and part number. I looked it up at Sewell and they have it listed as "Air Surge Tank to Manifold" #17176. Is this correct?

ChumpusRex

Yes. That is the correct part (17176-31050). The black plastic "manifold" is not technically the manifold; lexus calls it the "air surge tank". The manifold is the metal bit underneath.

Lexus recommend changing the gasket; they also recommend changing the gasket between the throttle body and the air surge tank.

Just a question to anyone that's done this. How did you get the Allen screw at the back of the manifold out (the one next to the VSV purge line). It's down a deep, narrow tunnel, and I can't get a socket down the tunnel.

Also, did anyone have any problems with seized bolts. All my Allen screws were seized solid, and I broke the head on one (the middle one down the shallow hole) trying to release it; so I've put half the plugs on hold, until I can work out :

a) How to undo the rear Allen bolt down the deep hole.
b) How to get the broken Allen bolt out of its hole
c) How to get the bolts that stay the rear of the manifold back in. They must have been under a lot of tension, because the holes in the stays don't line up with the holes in the "manifold", so I can't get them back in.

ChumpusRex

OK. I dug myself out of my hole, and changed the rest of the plugs.

Just to add to the good write up, I would like to add my comments:

Tools required (or at least strongly recommended)

1. Ratchet wrench with 10mm hex, 12mm hex and 5mm Allen bits (preferably 1/4", but 3/8" will be OK)
2. Extension bar for wrench (6" minimum, 6" and 3" bars available strongly recommended)
3. Torque wrench for plugs capable of 25 Nm (18 lb-ft). Usually means 3/8" with suitable extension bar and 16mm spark plug socket.
4. Flexhead 10mm ratchet combi wrench (for access to bolt behind throttle body). Access is too tight for a normal socket wrench, without removing the wiper cowling (which means also removing the windshield cowls, which are held with non-reusable clips)

Other materials recommended

1. Carb cleaner, throttle body cleaner or some other cleaning solvent. Once the air surge tank comes off the manifold, you'll find loads of crap and oil. Clean this off before reinstalling the surge tank to avoid fouling the gaskets.
2. Anti-seize compound. Use this for the bolts holding the surge tank to the manifold to avoid seizure. You may also wish to clean the threaded holes in the manifold casting with an M6 plug tap to remove oxide and corrosion before reinstalling the bolts.

Spare bolts (in case you drop some)

1. The bolts holding the surge tank to the manifold are M6x30 mm standard metric zinc plated Cap head machine screws.
2. The big bolts holding the surge tank to the stays are M8x20 mm standard metric zinc plated with washers. (Important note: Standard metric M8 bolts have 13mm heads. Japan industrial standard M8 bolts have 12 mm heads. Standard metric will fit, but you will need a different wrench)
3. The bolt holding the surge tank to the coolant hose stay is an M6x20 metric zinc plated bolt with washer.
4. If you lose one of the bolts holding the throttle body on, well you're probably hosed, because they look pretty specific to the part.

Other hints and tips
On my RHD IS250, access to the rear of surge tank stay bolt was greatly improved by removing the battery, which is on the car's left (right of engine bay as viewed from front). On LHD, I'm guessing the brake servo is in there, in which case, good luck!

Pnuge88

iTrader: (1)

Wow, people still use this guide! Cool lol reading it now after not remembering anything, I apologize again for the Half "arsed" write up haha

NickawdIs

iTrader: (1)

i changed 3 out of the 6 plugs b/c i am stripping the allen bolt (5mm) i can't get it out help please !

ChumpusRex

I broke the allen key in mine. I got the bolt out by sacrificing a 3/8" socket; I filled it with epoxy putty, then hammered the socket onto the Allen bolt (it's a very tight fit).

Once the epoxy hardened, I used a ratchet on the socket to remove the bolt.

Alternatively, use a broken bolt removal tool like http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....e=&dir=catalog with a suitable impact driver.

NickawdIs

iTrader: (1)

thanks but is this the only way ???

yaojunmike

Great post! I am planning to follow it and do it with another friend next weekend. I already bought the spark plug. What's this "Intake Mani. Gaskets (3 Pairs)-----YELLOW"? What's the parts for?

Thanks a lot for sharing!

Mike

Copper_Hed

Yup, dealer quoted me almost $700.00 for this service.
Obviously going to do this myself.
I did a search but came up dry, what is the best spark plug to buy?

Thanks