12-16-14, 12:30 PM
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- Lexus IS GS: How to Replace Spark Plugs
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Browse all: Lexus IS Engine and Powertrain Guides
DIY: IS350 Spark Plug Service
11-14-15, 08:29 PM
#151
Just the spark plug DIY should get you 75% of the way to removing the valve covers. I imagine you'll want to get ahold of the spark plug tube gaskets as well if you're doing the VC's.
11-15-15, 06:03 AM
#152
Super Moderator
allstar319 already gave you the link to the IS250 spark plug guide, but for future reference the FAQ thread which is stickied to the top of the forum has a list of links to the most popular and useful DIYs including that one.
11-15-15, 09:12 AM
#153
11-16-15, 08:33 AM
#154
Driver School Candidate
I tried to do this today, but I wasn't able to. I decided to try to remove the hardest one on the driver side first, but I'll need to take the intake manifold off. The manifold completely block any kind of attempt to reach the bolt under it with a ratchet wrench or with any extension. My car is 2008 ... I wonder if the year matters.
I was prepared to actually grind one down a bit if I needed to shave a few millimeters off it, but didn't have to.
Our car is also a 2008.
Good luck.
03-04-16, 03:07 AM
#157
x1000 on the excellent writeup.
I just did this on our '08 IS350. The problematic bolt (driver's side, forward-most coil-pack bolt) was ok, mostly in the fact that I knew (from this thread) that it was possible to get it out without removing the intake. I cracked it loose with the box end of a normal combination wrench. My gear wrench (Gearwrench brand) was actually too thick to even fit on the bolt (it hit the intake) but a normal (Craftsman) wrench did fit. I cracked it loose then just unscrewed with my finger. I actually spent much more time getting the wiring harness pulled to the side enough to get the coil-pack out and ofcourse I friggen dropped a wrench which took forever to fish out from below the engine with a magnetic picker-upper.
So, mucho gracias for the writeup and the discussion (after reading all 10 pages things make more sense when you get in there and do the work).
These plugs had 106k miles on them (yeah yeah yeah), the middle cylinder on the driver's side had oil around the plug the others were dry. I didn't put any oil or anti-seize on the plugs (never have on any other vehicle I've replaced plugs on, not sure why I'd start now). The spark-plug screw-in engagement actually felt much more solid on this engine than most I've had, some are really vague about cross-threading, this was clean and crisp.
I just did this on our '08 IS350. The problematic bolt (driver's side, forward-most coil-pack bolt) was ok, mostly in the fact that I knew (from this thread) that it was possible to get it out without removing the intake. I cracked it loose with the box end of a normal combination wrench. My gear wrench (Gearwrench brand) was actually too thick to even fit on the bolt (it hit the intake) but a normal (Craftsman) wrench did fit. I cracked it loose then just unscrewed with my finger. I actually spent much more time getting the wiring harness pulled to the side enough to get the coil-pack out and ofcourse I friggen dropped a wrench which took forever to fish out from below the engine with a magnetic picker-upper.
So, mucho gracias for the writeup and the discussion (after reading all 10 pages things make more sense when you get in there and do the work).
These plugs had 106k miles on them (yeah yeah yeah), the middle cylinder on the driver's side had oil around the plug the others were dry. I didn't put any oil or anti-seize on the plugs (never have on any other vehicle I've replaced plugs on, not sure why I'd start now). The spark-plug screw-in engagement actually felt much more solid on this engine than most I've had, some are really vague about cross-threading, this was clean and crisp.
i really wish i saw yor post a bit earlier, i bought a set of gear wrench and it is indeed too thick.. gonna exchange for craftsman tomorrow
03-14-17, 06:48 PM
#161
^^^^See attachments, torque specs are in there.. BTW, 2 Denso PNs fit our engines. The TT plugs are much cheaper than the OEM plugs. I have a set of the TT plugs waiting for me at Advance Auto Parts. Total cost for 8 plugs for my ISF was less than $42.00. See this thread:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...008-isf-4.html
Lou
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...008-isf-4.html
Lou
Last edited by flowrider; 03-15-17 at 09:43 AM.
03-15-17, 05:58 AM
#163
Driver School Candidate
^^^^See attachments, torque specs are in there.. BTW, 2 Denso PNs fit our engines. The TT plugs are much cheaper than the OEM plugs. I have a set of the TT plugs waiting for me at Advance Auto Parts. Total cost for 8 plugs for my IUSF was less than $42.00. See this thread:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...008-isf-4.html
Lou
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...008-isf-4.html
Lou
I did see those TT plugs, but was a little wary on ordering them, so I went with the regular plugs. $60 shipped through Amazon.
03-15-17, 10:44 AM
#165
Driver School Candidate
^^^^I sincerely hope it wasn't these:
https://www.amazon.com/FK20HBR11-909...ords=FK20HBR11
or
https://www.amazon.com/Spark-Replace...ords=FK20HBR11
BTW, I spoke to a representative of Denso, and he told me that the TT plug was Denso's best plug. The low price, he said, was because of a promotion.
Lou
https://www.amazon.com/FK20HBR11-909...ords=FK20HBR11
or
https://www.amazon.com/Spark-Replace...ords=FK20HBR11
BTW, I spoke to a representative of Denso, and he told me that the TT plug was Denso's best plug. The low price, he said, was because of a promotion.
Lou