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Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
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DIY: IS350 Spark Plug Service
#181
Just curious how accurate this guide is, meaning, are there too many mystery steps?
I'm new to wrenching on this car - just completed the Alternator DIY on here - and there was quite a bit of bull**** not mentioned about moving wiring and stuff around which led to a lot of headache.
I'm new to wrenching on this car - just completed the Alternator DIY on here - and there was quite a bit of bull**** not mentioned about moving wiring and stuff around which led to a lot of headache.
#184
Just curious how accurate this guide is, meaning, are there too many mystery steps?
I'm new to wrenching on this car - just completed the Alternator DIY on here - and there was quite a bit of bull**** not mentioned about moving wiring and stuff around which led to a lot of headache.
I'm new to wrenching on this car - just completed the Alternator DIY on here - and there was quite a bit of bull**** not mentioned about moving wiring and stuff around which led to a lot of headache.
If you did the Alternator, spark plugs won't be hard. No "mystery" step swere left out.
Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.
#185
I also agree with 93scmax. The guide is pretty accurate. Just be ready with that ratcheting wrench 'cause the right side if you have a is350 is kind of a pain. There's really no room for a socket to get into that bolt so ratcheting wrench will make it 10x easier.
#187
Ok out of all of this I'm still not seeing the OE plug style/brand. I go to the auto stores websites and see 25 different spark plugs that will fit. Here's the question, what SHOULD be in there? What is the oem part number?
#188
Racer
iTrader: (2)
I'd use OEM plugs, but that's just me.
Last edited by Zmon; 03-15-18 at 03:33 PM.
#191
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Excellent writeup. Thanks for saving me nearly $600. I went with the TT plugs from Advanced for forty-something rather than paying the 620 or so I was quoted from the dealer for just the plug change. Waited until 80,000 miles as the machine has always run great. As for the left side cylinders and especially the left front, I started going down the path of using a gear wrench on the front but really couldn't see any way to pull the coil out of the hole even if I could get the 10 mm bolt out with my new wrench. Found that I had 2 plastic hose clamp looking wire zip-ties that popped straight out by carefully prying with a big flat blade screwdriver. Man that made things easy! I was easily able to use my 10 mm socket with a long extension on that front cylinder and had plenty of clearance to finish my job. Total time was 2.5 hours from popping the hood to popping beer number 1 including running to the store when I couldn't find my spark plug socket, cleaning lots of bits, and re-reading this post. If I was to do it again, 1 hour-ish.
When I fired up the engine afterwards, it shut off immediately after starting. Damn I said (or something like that). Hit the button again and she purred like the beaut she is! Not enough o's in smooth to describe the new idle.
When I fired up the engine afterwards, it shut off immediately after starting. Damn I said (or something like that). Hit the button again and she purred like the beaut she is! Not enough o's in smooth to describe the new idle.
#193
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
When nuts/bolts stop turning, Stop!
New plugs and washers: you'll feel the washer crush and the plug stops turning. Stop turning.
Verify the gap on new plugs using round gauges.
Its an easy job. Do it!
Last edited by 2013FSport; 05-14-18 at 01:15 PM. Reason: Don't do no IsTarzan on the bolts! lol
#194
Racer
iTrader: (1)
I tried to do this today, but I wasn't able to. I decided to try to remove the hardest one on the driver side first, but I'll need to take the intake manifold off. The manifold completely block any kind of attempt to reach the bolt under it with a ratchet wrench or with any extension. My car is 2008 ... I wonder if the year matters.
I used a simple 10mm wrench to remove the difficult bolt because any ratcheting wrench can't fit. I did it about the same as the guy on the youtube video below. I have to remove all the connected wires (circled in red) and use the piece of metal block (green arrow) as leverage to get the bolt to come loose.
The spark plugs actually doesn't look bad at all at 75,000 miles. I think it could probably wait until 90,000.
#195
Driver School Candidate
First off, thank you everyone for having and contributing to this thread, it's very helpful. Today I performed the 100k mile service on my wife's IS350, and I wanted to share a couple things.
1- I suggest to replace the radiator cap at this time. I went to remove mine as I was draining the coolant and the cap basically disintegrated inside. Fortunately, since I was already draining the coolant the parts just fell straight down and stayed there, and I was able to remove the top radiator hose and easy remove the pieces. Since today is Christmas, the car is down until tomorrow when I can get a new one.
2- If you don't have a spark plug socket, an alternative is to use a piece of 3/16" hose and a metal rod. The hose goes over the tip of the plug, and the metal rod is for rigidity. These were both remnants in my garage which worked well. a telescoping magnet aids in easy plug removal.
1- I suggest to replace the radiator cap at this time. I went to remove mine as I was draining the coolant and the cap basically disintegrated inside. Fortunately, since I was already draining the coolant the parts just fell straight down and stayed there, and I was able to remove the top radiator hose and easy remove the pieces. Since today is Christmas, the car is down until tomorrow when I can get a new one.
2- If you don't have a spark plug socket, an alternative is to use a piece of 3/16" hose and a metal rod. The hose goes over the tip of the plug, and the metal rod is for rigidity. These were both remnants in my garage which worked well. a telescoping magnet aids in easy plug removal.
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