$498 for 30,000 Mile Servicing??
06-03-10, 08:37 PM
#16
Pretty sure the early models don't use chains only the old school rubber timing belts. I don't recall even replacing mine yet and I've had my car since March 2006. I'm sitting at almost 50k miles. Don't quote me, but I'd say 60-80k is the standard for most cars to be on the safe side, but I've seen others that don't require it until 100k. Someone with greater knowledge throw your 2cents in lol.
The 2IS does not have a timing belt. It has a chain (actually several chains) and they do not ever need to be replaced.
That has nothing to do with the serpentine belt however, which drives some accesories and is what the previous posted asked about. There is no scheduled maintenance interval for this, it's pretty much like tires, brake pads or windshield wiper blades, replace when you need to. (though the serp belt should need replacing WAY less often than any of those)
06-04-10, 12:14 AM
#17
Ah, ok, that makes sense, thanks for the info.
Seems kind of strange that it would be an as-needed thing. I would think wear on such an item would be mostly dependent on mileage (or at least about as much so as, say, engine oil or a timing belt). As-needed things like brakes, tires, etc depend on your driving style and conditions. Not sure why that stuff would effect this belt... but I didn't even know we had to worry about that belt until a few days ago, so what do I know.
Seems kind of strange that it would be an as-needed thing. I would think wear on such an item would be mostly dependent on mileage (or at least about as much so as, say, engine oil or a timing belt). As-needed things like brakes, tires, etc depend on your driving style and conditions. Not sure why that stuff would effect this belt... but I didn't even know we had to worry about that belt until a few days ago, so what do I know.
07-02-10, 09:45 PM
#22
Google it, it's almost the same for every car. Drain the fluid by unbolting the bleed screw on each caliper. Make sure use a clear hose that fits over the bleed screw.
Fill the MC reservior, start at a corner and open the valve withe the clear hose. Have a buddy pump the pedal until no bubbles and new clear fluid comes out. Watch the reservior to make it's full. Work ur way to each caliper
Fill the MC reservior, start at a corner and open the valve withe the clear hose. Have a buddy pump the pedal until no bubbles and new clear fluid comes out. Watch the reservior to make it's full. Work ur way to each caliper
07-02-10, 11:31 PM
#23
Honestly with my last toyota I just changed filters, spark plugs, tightened the belt when it made a noise, it never needed anything. I always change my own oil..
I am not saying to let your car just go, but the prices are ridiculous for a mostly inspection job, although if you DIY you don't get the color print out with all the check boxes
Brake fluid change, be careful not to over tighten the bleeders though when you are done, if you snap the bleeder then it's expensive.
I can see the brake pad left from the wheel, take a mirror or remove the wheel to check the other side to be sure, wait, dealer rotate tires is a big red flag there unless you have IS250 AWD. When brake rotors warp I can feel it and change it. Say no to $800 brake job pushed onto Lexus owners to change all 4 pads and rotor prematurely.
I am not saying to let your car just go, but the prices are ridiculous for a mostly inspection job, although if you DIY you don't get the color print out with all the check boxes
Brake fluid change, be careful not to over tighten the bleeders though when you are done, if you snap the bleeder then it's expensive.
I can see the brake pad left from the wheel, take a mirror or remove the wheel to check the other side to be sure, wait, dealer rotate tires is a big red flag there unless you have IS250 AWD. When brake rotors warp I can feel it and change it. Say no to $800 brake job pushed onto Lexus owners to change all 4 pads and rotor prematurely.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
