IS250 hard "jerk" when put in D
07-10-10, 01:45 PM
#31
Huh? That article says you don't have to idle your car, which is exactly what I'm saying. It says idling won't do any harm, but at the same time that it's unnecessary and wasteful. I'm asking for an article that says you SHOULD idle your car. I couldn't find any.
This could just be masking the true problem though. Wouldn't the OP rather fix the problem rather than find a workaround? That's like telling someone who hears clunking sound when turning left to just always turn right instead.
This could just be masking the true problem though. Wouldn't the OP rather fix the problem rather than find a workaround? That's like telling someone who hears clunking sound when turning left to just always turn right instead.
And here is another: "If you look in a new car owners manual, you’ll see that extended idling times take your car into the severe maintenance schedule. Police vehicles and taxis are good for this. Reason being, that idling, even with a well tuned, and presice fuel injected engine, you don’t burn all of the fuel in the cylinders. This is why we have EGR, and catalytic systems. Extended idling will cause the unburnt fuel to wash the oil from cylinders, and dilutes oil. The unburnt fuel will also cause carbon deposits on valves, in the EGR system, and cause the catalytic converter(s) to work harder, meaning shortened life. Diesels are known for fuel wash problems(fuel washing oil from cylinders) to the point where newer diesels have an idle up feature that will increase idle and limit fuel if left idling for an extended period of time. These problems become magnified in the cold, because fuel is harder to burn cold.
So, is idling bad.. you could say so.. but then again, these are extreme cases."
We are only suggesting 1-2 minutes on initial start-up...not all day.
07-10-10, 01:59 PM
#32
Just checked the owner's manual, and it states nothing about not requiring warming up, actually it states nothing about it at all. It does state "not to race a cold engine" on page 96, which translates into letting the oil warm up to prevent internal engine wear. Please tell me where it "explicity" states it is not required, but then ask a mechanic why an automatic transmission would do this when cold.
"Idling is bad for a car." How? Do you turn your car off when you stop at a red light? Idling doesn't hurt anything, engines just put out more emissions at idle and they are more efficient at higher RPMs. This is why we have an EGR system, but the OP is about a feeling from the transmission. So, if idling is bad for a car, then why don't our cars idle at 3,000 RPM?
"Keep rpms under 3k or so until the temp guage goes up." And where is this transmission temperature gauge? Or are you thinking that the engine coolant gauge tells you how warm the transmission fluid is? Engine coolant and transmission fluid warm at different rates, so the coolant gauge is not relative.
If you have ever been a mechanic, or if you have any experience working on cars, you know that automatic transmissions always work better when warm and act up when cold. The OP even stated that this condition only happens when its cold, and doesn't happen when its warm, so what does that tell you? What do you think the dealership will tell him? Idling is bad for a car?
"Idling is bad for a car." How? Do you turn your car off when you stop at a red light? Idling doesn't hurt anything, engines just put out more emissions at idle and they are more efficient at higher RPMs. This is why we have an EGR system, but the OP is about a feeling from the transmission. So, if idling is bad for a car, then why don't our cars idle at 3,000 RPM?
"Keep rpms under 3k or so until the temp guage goes up." And where is this transmission temperature gauge? Or are you thinking that the engine coolant gauge tells you how warm the transmission fluid is? Engine coolant and transmission fluid warm at different rates, so the coolant gauge is not relative.
If you have ever been a mechanic, or if you have any experience working on cars, you know that automatic transmissions always work better when warm and act up when cold. The OP even stated that this condition only happens when its cold, and doesn't happen when its warm, so what does that tell you? What do you think the dealership will tell him? Idling is bad for a car?
The temp gauge is to inform you when it's ok to drive the engine at higher rpms. I thought that'd be obvious by having only mentioned it in the context of keep rpms under 3k till you see it happen.
As to the transmission, the ECU changes the vehicles behavior when the transmission is cold, because it expects you to be driving that way. So it's perfectly safe to do so. The car won't go into 6th until the transmission is warmed a bit for example. And again, the best way to accomplish that is to drive it.
Since warming it up isn't needed, and as noted idling is one of the few things that puts the car into a severe duty maintenance schedule, don't idle.
If idling is bad, and you seem to reluctantly admit in your last post it is, then "just a little" is still bad, it's just not as bad as a lot.
There's a pretty long thread here if you search on idling that goes into some detail about why it's bad. In some technical detail in fact.
I've yet to see anyone provide anything, at all, about any way in which it's "good" other than they think it is.
07-10-10, 02:34 PM
#33
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: SoCal
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay so I came home around 4 in the morning last night (bar hopping -__-) and I woke up at 9 this morning to go to work. I started the car and the temp was almost to the C(bottom) but it wasn't at it's coldest, the needle was still lil' over the C. I waited about 3-4 minutes to warm up. I finally put the gear into D and it didn't happen this time. So...I'm guessing this gotta be something related to whether the car is warmed up a lil or when it's at its coldest. I just wanna know if this happens to you guys! lol. I didn't post this to hear about idling warm up vs drive warm up lol.
07-10-10, 03:11 PM
#34
Okay so I came home around 4 in the morning last night (bar hopping -__-) and I woke up at 9 this morning to go to work. I started the car and the temp was almost to the C(bottom) but it wasn't at it's coldest, the needle was still lil' over the C. I waited about 3-4 minutes to warm up. I finally put the gear into D and it didn't happen this time. So...I'm guessing this gotta be something related to whether the car is warmed up a lil or when it's at its coldest. I just wanna know if this happens to you guys! lol. I didn't post this to hear about idling warm up vs drive warm up lol.
07-11-10, 07:31 AM
#37
Hopefully the dealership you work at doesn't do that!
Anyway, my transmission does not "jerk" when I start driving right after starting it... you know, like you're supposed to.
So if yours does I'd ask the dealer, as mistuhdan said it might well suggest a problem is developing.
07-11-10, 02:25 PM
#39
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: SoCal
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
04-10-23, 11:56 PM
#42
1st Gear
Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: CA
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
wow, the problem is not whether you are warming up your car are not, because the bottom line is you do not need to, and it is bad for your car. Please don't listen to anyone that says otherwise.
The problem is your transmission mounts. They are worn and need to be replaced, which is why you feel the jerk when putting the gear in d.
The problem is your transmission mounts. They are worn and need to be replaced, which is why you feel the jerk when putting the gear in d.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
