muf-dvr

I keep reading posts that the ML sub is worthless and blows easy.

Anyone ever upgrade this with good results?
If so..what kind of speaker did you use?

I dont want to keep looking for an IS350 w ML if the sub, or ANY speakers for that matter are just gonna blow and be ****.

projectdna

iTrader: (56)

where did you read that the ML sub is worthless and blows easily?

i've had my 2is for four-plus years, and my ML sub - or any speaker in my oem ML audio system, for that matter - has not blown nor shown any signs of physical degradation.

Karlson

iTrader: (1)

too much rap music on max volume.

06isDriver

the ML system is the best stock system i have EVER heard. no kidding.

Some people have had issues with blowing the sub but it isnt as common as you'd think.

Ive got the full ML setup with a 12" alpine sub and 400 watt class d amp being fed a signal through the cleansweep system from jl.

Ive got all this running IN CONJUNCTION with the stock sub in place. No blowouts still sounding great.

TuReckless

My ML sub blew a couple of days ago so im probably just gonna buy a 12w7 from JL and a 1000.1 JL amp to power that and see how that goes.

JoeCombs

iTrader: (3)

blowouts are mostly caused from a bad audio signal.. ie the radio, or music on CD/Ipod that is low quality (limewire) i have ML and blast my ipod all the time on full audio, bass all the way up. you just have to find that sweet spot for your equalizer and volume in the car and volume on the ipod.

Koz

The ML sub should be able to handle any signal without blowing. Sorry this is not a signal problem. I have not blown another sub since I've kept the volume 50 or below.

Koz

doitmikey

*Disclaimer* I am by no means an audio expert but...

My Experience:
I bought my IS used just under a year ago and within a month figured out that the sub was blown by the previous owner. Luckily it was under warranty and dealer replaced it no problem. Now its been about 8 months since I replaced the sub and its on the way out again (no more warranty ). Considering that in my 12 months of ownership (I have put less than 3k miles on the car) I have had two subs go bad I would say the ML sub failure rate is pretty high (unless you are a g'pa listening to Bach). For listening to today's music, ya I like some Fergie bass lines, the sub will fail IMHO.

My Research:
So after countless hours of research on speakers, impedance, and the ML system I have determined that the ML sub has a 16-ohm impedance (this has been confined by numerous posts on CL so its not worth arguing ) a sub with this impedance is pretty much impossible to find these days as all the big name companies are putting out 2 or 4-ohm systems. I have looked for a single 16-ohm voice coil sub, and dual 8-ohm voice coil sub (can be wired to be 16-ohm) but not come up with any aftermarket options. All that being said you have 6 options available to you:

1) The ML sub usually fails as a result of the cone separating from the speaker frame (in my experience, never had the voice coil go). This is easily fixed by re-foaming the speaker, a process in which you cut out the old foam (part that is meant to flex when the cone moves), and glue a new foam on. This costs about $25 in parts.

2) Re-cone the speaker. About $40 in parts and replaces the entire cone and foam. Note that options 1 & 2 are only for if the speaker works but is rattling or not producing much sound.

3) If the voice coil is blown you can try to find a speaker parts company to source you the correct size and impedance voice coil and then rebuild the entire speaker. This is not the option for someone with no DIY ability. I have not found the correct voice coil but you can get them custom built although I assume that it would not be cheap.

4) You can just buy a replacement ML sub.

5) You can install an aftermarket sub with a lower impedance and connect it to the stock amp. This option is likely to cause problems with your amp over time, and I am avoiding it at all costs.

6) You can install an aftermarket sub and amp. This is by far the best option if you want good bass. For me I don't like it because I don't want to be tearing apart the interior to run all of the wires.

In the end I have not even made an attempt to pull my sub out yet to try any of the options. Once I do start on this project I will post up my findings. Hopefully my research and opinion will help you.

Don't flame me guys.

Kurtz

iTrader: (1)

I fear I must.

Here's a diagram of the ML stereo system, with the speakers.

Just like all the other ML speakers, the sub is 8 ohm.

Mv350

iTrader: (23)

you can do that, but it would sound like ****. no aftermarktet sub will sound good with the stock amp...at all

doitmikey

Kurtz: Im basing all of my assumptions / research on the ML subs in various models being the same Ohm rating which may be flawed but I have not heard differently. If it is in fact 8-ohm that would make life much easier. Question is if that sheet is correct or not considering differing information from Lexus, https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...he-boom-8.html post # 115 which shows Lexus claiming that it is a 12-ohm sub.

I have seen other members test the sub's impedance and it registers 12.7-ohm, https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...he-boom-7.html post #92, which is consistent with a 16-ohm speaker (have not tested this myself yet though so it could be flawed) and a possible misinterpretation on the part of the CSR in the previous reference. Is there a possibility that the speaker has two 8-ohm coils wired to yield a 16-ohm load making the Lexus sheet correct, yet incorrect?

Please don't think that I am trying to argue with you, just trying to get the correct information since I would love to just buy a 4-ohm DVC sub and be done with the ML sub and the only issue is the stinking ohm controversy.

jewel

I've blown my sub twice

Kurtz

iTrader: (1)

Those two threads are about an LS430 subwoofer, not the one in the ISx50.

What I posted is a diagram of the ML system from the ISx50

The two systems don't even have the same number of speakers.

doitmikey

Kurtz: Well that's good to know! I just assumed that ML was using the same technology for everything. Knowing that it is an 8-ohm sub opens up some options now since I should be able to source voice coils to rebuild the ML sub.

Thanks

06isDriver

one important thing to note:

If you decide to go with aftermarket sub and amp...you'll need to be sure the sub can play a WIDE range of frequencies AND you will want the cleansweep (or some other vendor) to get a full signal to that aftemarket amp.

If you use the line level inputs directly from the ML system, the frequencies have already been adjusted to only provide between 30-80 hertz I believe.

Basically you'll have LARGE gaps where the bass doesnt exist, then hits INCREDIBLY hard in the low range.

As I'm more of a sound quality guy this was a big issue that STILL isnt fully resolved in my opinion for me. My audio shop set the frequency crossover after the cleansweep and I still htink its too low. I'm missing the high bass notes.

I think I'll add an additional aftermarket 8" (in conjunction with the 12") to blend the upper frequency bass with the low.