IS250chino

iTrader: (7)

Ok i want to order the DRL's in LED. I know i need the LED 9005 ands Module. V-Led need Tells me i need a relay? the relay said HID relay not Led

Do i need it or not ?

renozi

you don't really need the module. the flickering isn't even that notice unless you're relatively close up. just get the LEDs and install.

danhtran

iTrader: (1)

yea.. thats right u dont need the module
i just installed my today it work fine
u cant really see the flickering

jbounnoi

iTrader: (7)

.. like everyone else said.. you cant really notice it unless you stare at it.. but it bothered me.. so i got the module's looks great..

Gustavo250

iTrader: (8)

there is any way to stop the flickering?

odist

iTrader: (1)

I had ordered two 9005 leds and separate modules for each of them as V-leds recommended. I have so far, gone through 4 modules. In my experience, they are not reliable. In my experience, two of the modules still caused it to flicker. This is after I had wrote to v-leds and the owner of v-leds told me he has an is350 and his set up was the same. Yes, V-leds will exchange them for you but it's so much hassle to ship them back and forth. Not to mention the HID bulbs I got from v-leds whet out in 5 seconds.

I still buy interior leds from v-leds. However, if you are paying others to install the items for you, v-leds is not a good option. the money adds up between shipping and installation. It's just not a solid product.

Is there any other option for led/drl ?

IS250chino

iTrader: (7)

Now they want me to buy a relay for $14.99 . im infor about $85 not including the relay

So im going to get the relay a hope it doesnt **** up

odist

iTrader: (1)

I hope that works IS250chino. It does look good when it actually works. I never tried the relay... I was just not sure about drilling a hole in the black rubber cap where it seals it from moisture.
BTW,I forgot to mention earlier. In all four cases of failed modules, it eventually failed to light intermittently. It would be on for couple of days and go out, eventually never coming back on. As soon as a new module is on, it would be fine for a few days. Ultimately I would be driving with one DRL on

llamaboiz

i like the flicker of the led drl, looks like a mini hid... but of course i dont run the discoball bulbs

T4styPh0

iTrader: (2)

I think the OP is referring to the newer DRLs fro coeds that do require a relay kit.

http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED/D...22474-3-3.html

kentaro

iTrader: (5)

68 LED DRL bulb with modules.
Only flickers during first 3-5 seconds.
Had them for 2+ months, no problem yet.

VLEDS

Hello everyone my name is James, I am the R&D Tech at V-LEDS. I stumbled onto this thread and noticed some of you may be experiencing issues with converting your DRLs to LED. From what I’ve gathered there may be some misconceptions or confusion as to the proper combination of parts needed and what each one is for. I just want to shed some light on the subject (no pun intended).

Here is a breakdown of what we found on our own IS350 and how we addressed the issues that stemmed from installing LEDs in the DRL location.

1. Flickering: The flickering on the LEDs is caused by “pulses” of power on the DRL circuit. The DRL system in the IS runs at a fluctuating voltage range from +3 volts to +6 volts. It basically cycles up and down at a high rate. This prolongs the life of a Halogen bulb running at low voltage. The filament of the halogen bulb does not show this as flickering; it regulates this cycling into about a +4.5 volt constant voltage. Our LEDs on the other hand react quickly enough to changes in voltage so it is very visible and shows up as flickering.

2. 9005_DRL_MODULE: The sole purpose of this device is to increase voltage. It can take a +3 volt power source and drive it up to +14 volts. The DRL_MODULE is polarity sensitive, meaning that if plugged in backwards (reverse polarity) it will be permanently damaged. You must test the socket in your car and verify what wire is ground (-) and power (+) and align them with labeled female connector on the Module itself. This Module was also designed for our older model 68 LED DRL bulb. If you try to use this in conjunction with our new 28 High Power LEDs it will blow a fuse on your car. The power consumption is greater on the new LEDs and will cause too much current draw on the low voltage DRL system.

3. Relay Harness: We have tested and confirmed on our IS350 that using a Relay harness is the best way to power the LEDs. It eliminates any “flickering” and runs full charging voltage from the battery to the LEDs. It does require extra wiring and drilling a hole in the back of the housing but is fool-proof and reliable.

4. Parts needed for the DRL upgrade: 1) Relay Harness, 1) DRL_MODULE, and a set of any 9005 LEDs. You can also run HIDs in your high beams with full functionality of the DRL system if you so desire. But there are pros and cons to this, pro; unbelievable high beam output, con; you will be blinding oncoming traffic during the day.

I hope that helps, and I will monitor this thread for any other questions you all may have on the subject.

renozi

the oscillating voltage won't damage the new 28 LEDs if we choose to run it without the module and the relay right?

9relude8

yea same question for me too!!! Also, if we decide to run the high power 28 LED bulbs in the fog lights we won't need a module either right?

renozi

nah fogs are fine. i don't see any flickering in my fogs