CleverName

So got serious about getting some conditioner on my seats, and suspect the only leather in them is the seat insets(perforated part). Is this correct?(Pretty normal for most cars)
I already see the headrests are Naugahyde, and was wondering just how much is actually real leather.

Center arm rest, and steering wheel/feel look correct, but cannot see the backside for absolute proof. What about the door trim?

Just curious so I can use the right cleaners where they are needed.

Thanks
Vince

Micaiah

I didn't think the headrests are pleather. I thought the bolstering of the seats are indeed leather.

355F1

What brand of conditioner are you "getting serious" with?

Jetfire

iTrader: (3)

easiest way to test is when you press a finger down on the surface. if it wrinkles around your finger, it's real leather.

if it makes a divot without any wrinkles then it's pleather. pretty sure all of our leather is real.

BounceNY

iTrader: (9)

I believe the only non-leather is on the rear doors by the arm handle.

tex2670

If you feel the front door insert, and the rear door insert, you can definitely feel a difference.

Personally, I use Lexol.

DaSyce

iTrader: (3)

I would have guessed that the front on the seats, and the steering wheel are leather.

The seat back, door inserts, armrests are all simulated leather.

CleverName

Modern materials have gotten quite good at leather imitation. You'll be amazed how many people will swear the headrest is leather, right up until you show them the knitted backing.
The last car I had that was a "full" leather seat was my '91 Mitsubishi, and an '88 before that. Since then, cars like my Subaru, Dodge and Audi all had leather insets with Naugahyde bolsters to cut costs.

Besides hearing it "feels" like leather, I was wondering if anyone has actually reupholstered a seat or door skin to know for a fact.

Lexol is good....a lot of the Audi folks seem to like it as well as Leather Master products.
I just use mild soap and water to clean, and then the Meguiar's wipes.

V

edgeucated

iTrader: (4)

i thought everything was pleather now. it is not only stronger, keeps it color longer, but is also cheaper to maintain

E6BAV8R

Zaino Z-10 Leather in a Bottle.

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/...oduct_Count=13

BTW, the 'Car Detailing' section answers all of your cleaning questions.

llamaboiz

Swissvax Leather Milk from cl vendor TrendyTodd HERE

Nezumi

I second leather in a bottle. Love using the stuff on my interior. Works great on the dash too. Only problem is that the bottle is almost out, and it costs so much just to ship ... more than the bottle itself

CleverName

I thought I asked a vehicle construction question LOL!
Every one else decided to change the topic to detailing!

Still waiting for more accurate input.
V

355F1

The wipes are great to keep in the trunk for emergency cleaning (I have those exact wipes in the trunk of my IS)

Leatherique is by far the greatest leather treatment product ever made. The before and after photos are simply amazing--especially on old dried out leather.

To show the difference that Leatherique makes after only one treatment I have attached a pic from my 1999 Ferrari F355. The color is not the standard tan that is inside 75% of Ferrari's; it is called Cuoio, and it is more of a "natural" color. I'll let you look at the pic and then decide which side of the front part was done. You should have seen the entire car after I treated it twice...the leather looks brand-freakin'-new and it's a convertible--thus super dry leather when I bought her in 2008.


I guess I would be one of the detailers mentioned in one of the posts who recommends against Connolly Hide Food/Feed. It was designed for aniline leather, and as such, can damage the coated leathers (what modern Ferrari's now have).

In the simplest of terms there are TWO main difference types of leather: coated (pigmented or semi-aniline) and uncoated (aniline).

When dealing with coated leathers, you are dealing (for the most part) with a synthetic coating applied to the top of the leather. Depending on the quality of the leather this coating can be pigmented (the leather underneath is gray and raw, the coating is responsible for the color) or semi-aniline, in which the leather is tanned and colored, the coating can be colored or clear in this case.

Most leather in most cars (over 95% since 1997) is some form of coated. The number one aspect in caring for coated leather is to keep it clean. Dirt, grime, and grit will abrade (sand away) the coating and can cause it to crack and tear. Use a gentle, water based, cleaner and a soft brush to remove any dirt and grime that builds up.

Coated leather doesn't require 'true' conditioning for the most part. This is okay, since most conditioners are nothing more than UV protectants and waxes anyways, designed to make the leather feel soft. Stay away from heavy oil based conditioners as they may attract dirt and grime and lead to more abrasion.

Cleaning is far more important than conditioning, with modern leather.

If you have aniline leather, then it will benefit greatly from cleaning and conditioning in the more traditional since.

So how do you tell if your leather is coated or uncoated?

You can place a little bead of water on the leather. If the leather absorbs the water then it is uncoated. If the water beads on the leather then it is coated. However uncoated leather that has been conditioned with a wax may bead water also.

You can also lightly scratch the leather. If you can change the texture of the leather by lightly rubbing your fingernail over it is uncoated (almost create a suede like appearance).

As far as Leatherique, I love the product, but on freshly coated leathers it is not going to offer much of a benefit. This is because the oils are not going to penetrate the coating and make their way to the hides. On coated leathers that have worn, microscopic cracks form that allows the oil to penetrate the coating and make its way to the hide. It also penetrates the coating in areas where there is stitching or light cracks.

On aniline leathers (uncoated) Leatherique will absorb straight into the hide and offer a very nice benefit.

So my recommendations would be to clean often (vacuum and wipe with a damp towel), only using a dedicated leather cleaner when the leather becomes visibly soiled. Condition (protect) after using a dedicated cleaner.

On new cars I recommend Leatherique every year or so, but as the leather ages and the coating becomes more porous, I would recommend more frequent applications.

Jetfire

iTrader: (3)

leatherique to restore beaten up leather, leather masters for keeping good looking leather in great shape.