Thinktwice

yeah... it was funny the first time.

relaxfoo

iTrader: (1)

not to be mean but that doesn't look good

Crispy

iTrader: (3)

$3K for LEDs?? Holy crap... I have a 2011 with LEDs, first $2500 takes 'em lol. Much rather have rims than LEDs, that's rediculous.

Edit: BTW the LEDs dim to about 30% brightness with the headlights on, that maybe why some think they are dim, others feel they are bright. I was in a parking garage the other day, and the LEDs were bright enough to act as headlights.

KpXMystic

eh, theres people that like it, and people that dont =) but looks alot better in person

robertrios

iTrader: (11)

anyone have a good relationship with sewell...lets do a group buy I would jump on this for around 1500 but 2k+ is excessive

v1rotate

so here is the issue guys... I was at the dealership the other day and had them disable the DRLs via the computer plug-in just like it was shown in the earlier post on this forum. So now the DRLs are "de-energized" and don't run just because the car runs. To the best of my knowledge the DRLs are actually the little "peanut light bulbs" above the high beams in the inner headlights. The DRLs are still ON if I turn my parking lamps or headlights on. I wanted to wire the Car ID LED strip DRLs that I just ordered so that they operate just like the 2011... Engine on... LED DRL strips on (without the yellowish old DRLs clashing them)... The instructions say to splice the LEDs into the running lamps for that look. Except now I believe the wires to the DRLs are de-energized (unless I turn on the parking lamps which then turn the amber peanut DRLs back on).... It appears that I have to either put up with the mis-matched colors or change to matching color LED "peanut" bulbs so the light is all one color. The problem with that is that I seem to think that to install those LED bulbs the high beams are sacrificed... which I don't want to do. I also wouldn't want to avoid any drilling the backs of the headlights to try to keep this project as easy as possible. Any ideas on how to keep the color of my LED light strips from clashing on my IS?

pfdaxe

iTrader: (8)

The little bulb your talking about is NOT your DRL. It's your parking light. you DRLs are you high beams operating at a reduced power. Just replace the parking light (also known as the "city" light) with a 194 LED bulb and continue to wire your LED strip to the parking light and problem solved. Your high beams will still work. Turning off the DRLs won't affect them.

v1rotate

Ok thanks so much for your help! One more question.... I'm guessing I should get the v-leds bulb 194, but should I get the radial firing or another kind? Also, should I get the 5K or 6K? The LED strip that I am adding is from CarID.com and I want the parking/city lights to fill put the housing properly and color match (close as possible) my AFS headlights and the LED strips. It's hard to judge via pics because LED lights always seem to photograph more blue-ish than usual.

HERBos

iTrader: (6)

i doubt anyone is down to spend that much money on headlights that IMO look less attractive than the current ones. but if you can find a GROUP that is willing to spend 2000 dollars on headlights, go for it!

HERBos

iTrader: (6)

then you better think twice!

felixdang

3G is godly expensive, I wouldn't pay that much for it.

Luckily my car already has it, I love the look of it at nite

Thinktwice

Kind of old now, sorry.

Sango

iTrader: (10)

I heard the problem is for going with the kit, if your car as AFS, you're going to get the warning about AFS not working. Is this true?

Thinktwice

That's what they say. The kit is better for the OEM halogen owners since AFS wouldn't be an issue as it's not installed.

Lenscap2

This is not true. You will have the little 'AFS off' light lit up in the lower left of the dash. But you will not have an AFS not working indicator. Two very different things, as you can turn AFS off manually. It's no different than having the parking sensor light, which stays lit when the parking sensors are on.