Smokyis350 1/4 mile runs
#16
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I drive around the water. How do you spin the tires?
What psi are you running? I was at 40 front and 35 rear. Might put it down to 30 next time.
Hey, I got a 13.9 on my last run
What psi are you running? I was at 40 front and 35 rear. Might put it down to 30 next time.
Hey, I got a 13.9 on my last run
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#17
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40 front/ 26 rear tends to work best if you're worried about traction (See Raralith's thread from my last post).
What size wheels are you running? As a local rule, the smaller your wheels, the better your times will be. (I say "local" because obviously there is a limit to this. You don't (can't) run with 1" wheels)
Running on 17" wheels > 18" wheels > 19 " wheels > 20 " wheels
This is unfortunate because people generally rank the wheels in just the opposite way when it comes to aesthetics/looks.
What size wheels are you running? As a local rule, the smaller your wheels, the better your times will be. (I say "local" because obviously there is a limit to this. You don't (can't) run with 1" wheels)
Running on 17" wheels > 18" wheels > 19 " wheels > 20 " wheels
This is unfortunate because people generally rank the wheels in just the opposite way when it comes to aesthetics/looks.
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40 front/ 26 rear tends to work best if you're worried about traction (See Raralith's thread from my last post).
What size wheels are you running? As a local rule, the smaller your wheels, the better your times will be. (I say "local" because obviously there is a limit to this. You don't (can't) run with 1" wheels)
Running on 17" wheels > 18" wheels > 19 " wheels > 20 " wheels
This is unfortunate because people generally rank the wheels in just the opposite way when it comes to aesthetics/looks.
What size wheels are you running? As a local rule, the smaller your wheels, the better your times will be. (I say "local" because obviously there is a limit to this. You don't (can't) run with 1" wheels)
Running on 17" wheels > 18" wheels > 19 " wheels > 20 " wheels
This is unfortunate because people generally rank the wheels in just the opposite way when it comes to aesthetics/looks.
Just gave it a try again to practice my launch. I turned off VSC and launched at 1000 RPM..my car did a giant burn out for a few seconds..
![Egads!](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/pat.gif)
#20
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Either that, or you are going full throttle too fast off the line. With trac off, even without brake torquing to 1000 RPMs, if you were to literally mash the accelerator pedal down all the way as fast as possible, you'd almost certainly do a burnout. You have to sort of ease into the accelerator pedal, but not too slowly, obviously. As you can see, there's an art to it.
Here's a huge compilation of IS350 vs ISF 1/4 mile runs -
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rFTj5WpVICY
IS350 is on street tires, ISF is on drag radials. With street tires the IS350 is able to consistently get mid 13s (13.49 average I believe).
#21
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Here's some advice:
- You burnout by turning off traction control, put your left foot on the break, right foot on the gas, hold down your left foot/brakes, apply steady pressure to your right foot/gas until you either feel a little slide or your rev breaks 2k, slowly release left good/brakes while pressing down your right foot/gas. Do this for maybe half a second and this gives you a few good rotations at high RPM to clean out your tires. I've found an amazing amount of cigarette butts, gravel, random crap under my tires when I'm at the staging lanes.
- Drop the rear PSI from 38 to 24, this makes a huge difference. If you do a small and fast burnout on 38 PSI than look at the ground, you'll notice that only a small strip of black rubber has been burned. Do this on 24 PSI and you'll see probably double the rubber width wise which means you've got a lot more tire on the ground therefore more traction. Don't worry about that being too low either, I was able to drive 16 miles back home just fine.
- Don't bother using Sport Mode. Sport Mode is simply a gear limitier (setting to 4 tells the computer not to go beyond 4th gear), but this is more important in stop and go traffic/local where the ECU constantly wants to jump to the overdrive gears which happens even at 40MPH@6th gear. On the drag (or whenever going WOT), the computer will automatically shift for you, and it will always go 1-4 gear and all the way to redline to squeeze every bit of the powerband possible. This means that it won't ever get up to 5th or 6th on our cars anyways.
- Don't bother using Power ECT mode. Power ECT mode just hugs the powerband, but under WOT, it seems to hug gears well past the "optimal" redline point, i.e. should shift at 6,500 RPM on D mode but shifts at 6,700 instead. While it doesn't help on WOT, Power ECT is good for quick accelorating as it tries to be very aggressive on gear changes to better give you power. A good example is if you are on the freeway and you go WOT, it'll almost immediately drop to 3rd (compared to a slight delay in D/Normal) to give you the immediate powerband in that range.
- Consider an intake mod too. Talking to a few mechanics, you sometimes really need to replace both intake and exhaust to take full advantage of the parts. Simply put, sometimes an intake with no exhaust will give you more air, but create more backpressure in the exhaust, and sometimes an exhaust will releave some backpressure but you won't get enough air from the intake.
- See if you can throw on your stock 18's. Bigger tires require more "energy" to push simply because the diameter is bigger. If you really want to get into this, consider lightweight 17" rims, the lightness so there's less weight to spin.
- You burnout by turning off traction control, put your left foot on the break, right foot on the gas, hold down your left foot/brakes, apply steady pressure to your right foot/gas until you either feel a little slide or your rev breaks 2k, slowly release left good/brakes while pressing down your right foot/gas. Do this for maybe half a second and this gives you a few good rotations at high RPM to clean out your tires. I've found an amazing amount of cigarette butts, gravel, random crap under my tires when I'm at the staging lanes.
- Drop the rear PSI from 38 to 24, this makes a huge difference. If you do a small and fast burnout on 38 PSI than look at the ground, you'll notice that only a small strip of black rubber has been burned. Do this on 24 PSI and you'll see probably double the rubber width wise which means you've got a lot more tire on the ground therefore more traction. Don't worry about that being too low either, I was able to drive 16 miles back home just fine.
- Don't bother using Sport Mode. Sport Mode is simply a gear limitier (setting to 4 tells the computer not to go beyond 4th gear), but this is more important in stop and go traffic/local where the ECU constantly wants to jump to the overdrive gears which happens even at 40MPH@6th gear. On the drag (or whenever going WOT), the computer will automatically shift for you, and it will always go 1-4 gear and all the way to redline to squeeze every bit of the powerband possible. This means that it won't ever get up to 5th or 6th on our cars anyways.
- Don't bother using Power ECT mode. Power ECT mode just hugs the powerband, but under WOT, it seems to hug gears well past the "optimal" redline point, i.e. should shift at 6,500 RPM on D mode but shifts at 6,700 instead. While it doesn't help on WOT, Power ECT is good for quick accelorating as it tries to be very aggressive on gear changes to better give you power. A good example is if you are on the freeway and you go WOT, it'll almost immediately drop to 3rd (compared to a slight delay in D/Normal) to give you the immediate powerband in that range.
- Consider an intake mod too. Talking to a few mechanics, you sometimes really need to replace both intake and exhaust to take full advantage of the parts. Simply put, sometimes an intake with no exhaust will give you more air, but create more backpressure in the exhaust, and sometimes an exhaust will releave some backpressure but you won't get enough air from the intake.
- See if you can throw on your stock 18's. Bigger tires require more "energy" to push simply because the diameter is bigger. If you really want to get into this, consider lightweight 17" rims, the lightness so there's less weight to spin.
#22
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I will give it a try hopefully next Wednesday. Still got a few more weeks before this season ends. I've noticed that I hit my rev limiter on 2nd gear for a split second. Wondering if that is normal?
Will definitely get a CAI again. I use to have the F-sport but sold it. Wondering if anyone have any experience with AFE cold air?
I sold the stock 18s long time ago.
If I am actually going to go all out I might get a set of Rotas with DR and PPE headers. We will see...
I will give it a try hopefully next Wednesday. Still got a few more weeks before this season ends. I've noticed that I hit my rev limiter on 2nd gear for a split second. Wondering if that is normal?
Will definitely get a CAI again. I use to have the F-sport but sold it. Wondering if anyone have any experience with AFE cold air?
I sold the stock 18s long time ago.
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Went back yesterday. been pretty busy lately. Ran a 13.3 at 80 degrees.
Best run was 13.3 @ 102 MPH but still lost because I accidentally left too early.![Egads!](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/pat.gif)
![](http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c40/itzvictor/ae8ffe1c.jpg)
Second best run was 13.395 at 102 MPH
![](http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c40/itzvictor/de631667.jpg)
My 60' is always around 2.1~.
But I ran constant 13.3-.4 all night. With or without breaks. Lost only once out of 10 runs to a 11 second Mustang and a 15 second C300 because I left too early.
Best run was 13.3 @ 102 MPH but still lost because I accidentally left too early.
![Egads!](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/pat.gif)
![](http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c40/itzvictor/ae8ffe1c.jpg)
Second best run was 13.395 at 102 MPH
![](http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c40/itzvictor/de631667.jpg)
My 60' is always around 2.1~.
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#29
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Did you lower your rear PSI? I didn't get lower 60' under I lowered the PSI to 30, and than I got pretty constant 2.0X running 24 PSI. Running 19's isn't the best either because the larger the diameter, the more the car has to spin to get the same rotation.
#30
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Just a reminder to everyone - drive safely with (preferably) traction control on.
Things have gotten cooler around these parts. I was driving around (dry conditions) with traction control off a few hours ago. From around 40, I punch it and get...wheel spin in 2nd gear. I almost lost control - thank goodness this didn't cause some sort of accident.
I think it's easy to get lulled into a false sense of security after driving with traction control on for so long.
Best to leave traction control off for the tracks.
I was shocked that even in dry conditions I could not get enough grip to safely accelerate through 2nd gear with traction control off while going 40 MPH. Seems like the cooler weather appears to have a serious effect on traction. I suppose that's consistent with the fact that people typically do mini-burnouts to heat up their tires before dragging.
Things have gotten cooler around these parts. I was driving around (dry conditions) with traction control off a few hours ago. From around 40, I punch it and get...wheel spin in 2nd gear. I almost lost control - thank goodness this didn't cause some sort of accident.
I think it's easy to get lulled into a false sense of security after driving with traction control on for so long.
Best to leave traction control off for the tracks.
I was shocked that even in dry conditions I could not get enough grip to safely accelerate through 2nd gear with traction control off while going 40 MPH. Seems like the cooler weather appears to have a serious effect on traction. I suppose that's consistent with the fact that people typically do mini-burnouts to heat up their tires before dragging.