is350 Brake Fluid flush
12-14-10, 11:32 AM
#16
You should check with the service advisor to find out. But mostly like you will get new brake fluid in the system because they have to gain access to the seal in the master brake cylinder and should theoretically change the brake fluid by procedure. I am not too sure what their recall guidelines include in terms of procedures but I suppose they would change the brake fluid upon servicing internal components of the master brake cylinder. Guess we'll just have to wait and find out. I am waiting for the letter in the mail before I head over to the dealership.
+2 on the diy brake flush . any one do this yet?
12-19-10, 09:07 PM
#19
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
They're all pretty much the same. Suck the old fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir. refill with fresh fluid and bleed all four calipers starting with the farthest from the master cylinder (passenger rear) and working progressively closer to the master cylinder. Just be sure you never let the reservoir get below the LOW mark or you might introduce air into the system, then bleeding becomes a huge PITA.
Some of us installed Earl's Solo Bleeders to make the bleeding process a one person job. I have these also installed on my IS F, my Supra, and the wife's Scion tC. They're easily worth their weight in gold.
Some of us installed Earl's Solo Bleeders to make the bleeding process a one person job. I have these also installed on my IS F, my Supra, and the wife's Scion tC. They're easily worth their weight in gold.
12-19-10, 09:41 PM
#22
I do all my own work, I don't trust anyone to work on my car. Little story why..I brought my s2000 to a local tune up shop because I didnt have time to change my oil, it was my first oil change on my s2000. I bought it brand new, I send my fiance over to get it done and gets the oil changed and leaves and calls me saying " Is the oil light suppose to flash after an oil change" I was like hell no, and told her pull over immediately and it was too late....BOOM there goes the motor on my brand new s2000..boy was i ****, the store forgot to tighten the oil drain plug...then they had the nerve to say " How do we know your fiance didnt loosen the plug?" I was about IRATE! I was like .....SHE DOSENT KNOW A BOLT FROM A NUT...MUCH LESS WHERE THE DRAIN PLUG IS....and i got a lawyer and their tone changed, so all in all it was 12k to get a complete new motor from Honda. Stupid people.
. I understand your thought process now.
12-19-10, 09:48 PM
#24
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
I do all my own work, I don't trust anyone to work on my car. Little story why..I brought my s2000 to a local tune up shop because I didnt have time to change my oil, it was my first oil change on my s2000. I bought it brand new, I send my fiance over to get it done and gets the oil changed and leaves and calls me saying " Is the oil light suppose to flash after an oil change" I was like hell no, and told her pull over immediately and it was too late....BOOM there goes the motor on my brand new s2000..boy was i ****, the store forgot to tighten the oil drain plug...then they had the nerve to say " How do we know your fiance didnt loosen the plug?" I was about IRATE! I was like .....SHE DOSENT KNOW A BOLT FROM A NUT...MUCH LESS WHERE THE DRAIN PLUG IS....and i got a lawyer and their tone changed, so all in all it was 12k to get a complete new motor from Honda. Stupid people.
12-26-10, 07:42 AM
#27
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I'm pretty new to DIY - the only thing I do on my own is air filter and cabin air filter change. I know the DIY vid is specifically for the brake fluid change but I was wondering about the steps to get to where they are on this DIY - the other tools/parts needed to get your car ready for the procedure. ramps/jacks? pulling off wheels and brakes?
Last edited by Shahryar; 12-26-10 at 07:47 AM.
12-26-10, 07:44 AM
#28
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They're all pretty much the same. Suck the old fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir. refill with fresh fluid and bleed all four calipers starting with the farthest from the master cylinder (passenger rear) and working progressively closer to the master cylinder. Just be sure you never let the reservoir get below the LOW mark or you might introduce air into the system, then bleeding becomes a huge PITA.
Some of us installed Earl's Solo Bleeders to make the bleeding process a one person job. I have these also installed on my IS F, my Supra, and the wife's Scion tC. They're easily worth their weight in gold.
Some of us installed Earl's Solo Bleeders to make the bleeding process a one person job. I have these also installed on my IS F, my Supra, and the wife's Scion tC. They're easily worth their weight in gold.
12-26-10, 09:53 AM
#29
Lexus Champion
For those that have never done a fluid change on their own I would suggest getting a buddy who has done it who can walk you through the process. It's pretty straightforward but the chance of screwing it up and getting air in the system is real. And as previously mentioned do not get any fluid on the paint work.
12-26-10, 01:40 PM
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btw - Sango.. I saw in the rest of your post you mentioned this:
Regarding this comment of the 30k service. I don't follow package items like that thanks to Kurtz/Knightshade's nice breakdown here which it seemed many people agree on. Maybe it will help you too:
The 2IS is really pretty easy... by the book you're looking at:
every 5k:
Oil change
(you can go much longer, safely... at least 7500 on normal oil, and at least 10-15k on any decent synthetic, 25k on Amsoil... but 5k is what the book says, the better to make the dealer money)
Every 15k:
Change air filter and cabin filter (you can do these yourself, maybe 5 minutes each, and pretty cheap)
Every 30k:
Change brake fluid- probably gonna pay someone to do this unless you're pretty comfortable working on your car... it's not super hard if you are, but it's one of those things you want to be SURE is done correctly- leaving air in brake lines is a Very Bad Thing.
Every 60k:
Spark plugs (again, can do yourself or not, depending how comfy you are working on cars... this is at least less of a "do it wrong can kill you" thing than brakes :P)
Every 100k:
Engine coolant
Oh, you'll need to change the battery in your smartkey every 2 years or so, if you want to count that.
That's about it for the RWD auto 250 and 350...
If you have an AWD 250 you'll have differential fluid changes in there occasionally... and if you have a manual RWD 250 you're the lucky one who can change transmission fluid (but will also get to change your clutch and flywheel for around $3,000 eventually)
The 2IS is really pretty easy... by the book you're looking at:
every 5k:
Oil change
(you can go much longer, safely... at least 7500 on normal oil, and at least 10-15k on any decent synthetic, 25k on Amsoil... but 5k is what the book says, the better to make the dealer money)
Every 15k:
Change air filter and cabin filter (you can do these yourself, maybe 5 minutes each, and pretty cheap)
Every 30k:
Change brake fluid- probably gonna pay someone to do this unless you're pretty comfortable working on your car... it's not super hard if you are, but it's one of those things you want to be SURE is done correctly- leaving air in brake lines is a Very Bad Thing.
Every 60k:
Spark plugs (again, can do yourself or not, depending how comfy you are working on cars... this is at least less of a "do it wrong can kill you" thing than brakes :P)
Every 100k:
Engine coolant
Oh, you'll need to change the battery in your smartkey every 2 years or so, if you want to count that.
That's about it for the RWD auto 250 and 350...
If you have an AWD 250 you'll have differential fluid changes in there occasionally... and if you have a manual RWD 250 you're the lucky one who can change transmission fluid (but will also get to change your clutch and flywheel for around $3,000 eventually)