Talk to me about car Audio
10-30-10, 02:23 AM
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Talk to me about car Audio
So, I want to upgrade my sub and amp, and after doin a bit of ressearch i want to get the JL audio 500/1 and a W6V2. Unfortunatly, the supplier here is out of stock and needs 3 months for the next order to arrive, so im thinking of ordering them directl from JL
Now heres my question: i was looking at some Rockford Fosgate subs and amp but the people here are not willing to install it, they are saying that the power output of our Mark Levinson system is different than that of Rockford fosgate, JBL, Alpine etc, and the difference in power output makes it impossible to install because the bass wont work or something. Im a music noob, this would be my first amp and sub install
Is that true? What did u guys do to over come that? I know wim gonna need a line converter, does that sort everything out?
What do u gusy recommend as a sound system? I love the ML system but its seriously lacking in the lows, want to add some kick to the system, but at the same time i dont want to loose how crisp the system sounds as it is.
Is JL audio much better than rockford fosgate, Infinity and JBL?
I really wanna do this, but the shops here are making it difficult, plus they all suck here.
Now heres my question: i was looking at some Rockford Fosgate subs and amp but the people here are not willing to install it, they are saying that the power output of our Mark Levinson system is different than that of Rockford fosgate, JBL, Alpine etc, and the difference in power output makes it impossible to install because the bass wont work or something. Im a music noob, this would be my first amp and sub install
Is that true? What did u guys do to over come that? I know wim gonna need a line converter, does that sort everything out?
What do u gusy recommend as a sound system? I love the ML system but its seriously lacking in the lows, want to add some kick to the system, but at the same time i dont want to loose how crisp the system sounds as it is.
Is JL audio much better than rockford fosgate, Infinity and JBL?
I really wanna do this, but the shops here are making it difficult, plus they all suck here.
10-30-10, 02:27 AM
#2
Lexus Test Driver
I would go with JL Audio!
I just had my Kenwood Excelon AMP along with 2 12" BMF subs installed. They just spliced right into the ML AMP. Should not be a problem, and if they say there is a problem, find a new sound guy.
I just had my Kenwood Excelon AMP along with 2 12" BMF subs installed. They just spliced right into the ML AMP. Should not be a problem, and if they say there is a problem, find a new sound guy.
10-30-10, 03:18 AM
#3
Pole Position
Thread Starter
so u didnt remove the amp, and just hooked up the kenwood amp to the ML amp? Was the sub removed? How did u account for the difference in power output?
Sorry im a total n00b when it comes to car audio.
10-30-10, 03:47 AM
#4
Lexus Test Driver
It's ok. I DJ so Im used to audio and EQ's, but not car audio.
ML AMP is 300watt
My kenwood is 1600watt
The kenwood powers the subs, while the ML powers the rest of the speakers.
I had them put a BASS **** in my ashtray so I can control the levels of the bass.
On my navi screen, for the eq. I turned the HIGHS and MIDS up by 2, and turned the bass down by 4.
I had them rip out my ML sub because I blew it, thus I got the 2 12's.
If you get an ADDITIONAL subwoofer in your trunk, you will need to "port" (make a pathway) for the sub to travel from the trunk to the inside of the car cab.
By me ripping out the blown ML sub, that leaves a nice 8 inch port for the BASS to travel into.
Other people just leave the backseat armrest down in the middle, but if you do this you need to cut out that DOOR PASSAGE to the trunk.
ML AMP is 300watt
My kenwood is 1600watt
The kenwood powers the subs, while the ML powers the rest of the speakers.
I had them put a BASS **** in my ashtray so I can control the levels of the bass.
On my navi screen, for the eq. I turned the HIGHS and MIDS up by 2, and turned the bass down by 4.
I had them rip out my ML sub because I blew it, thus I got the 2 12's.
If you get an ADDITIONAL subwoofer in your trunk, you will need to "port" (make a pathway) for the sub to travel from the trunk to the inside of the car cab.
By me ripping out the blown ML sub, that leaves a nice 8 inch port for the BASS to travel into.
Other people just leave the backseat armrest down in the middle, but if you do this you need to cut out that DOOR PASSAGE to the trunk.
10-30-10, 04:51 AM
#7
Pole Position
Thread Starter
at the end of the day, i want to improve on the ML system, i have no probs with it, just want more bass. I know they did a lot of fine tuning to make the ML system wat it is, and i dont want to mess up the level of tuning etc,
Thanks, thats acutally quite helpful
so now are ur 2 12" powering the amp and speakers?
My sub is not blow yet (it blew out once before, so did the speakers, but got em replaced under warrant, My warrany is pretty much done now, so i thought it d b a good time to upgrade
So sine my sub isnt blow yet, and i plan on getting a single 12" sub, i should do what u did oiriginally, connect the aftermarket sub to the amp and have the ML sub power the speakers
If my ML sub does blow out again, would the JL sub b able to power the soeajers as well as the amp? or will i be blwoing out my speakers?
What do u mean by port the sub (create a pathway) to the inside of the car cab? is that for the sound to travel from the trunk to the inside of the car? or are u refering to the wiring?
How do i connect the After market amp to the ML amp, splicing wires and running the input wire from the aftemarket and attach it to the input of the ML? does that creat problems (loss of quality?)
Would most audio shops know how to do this? Plus i want to understand everything in full detail when i talk to them
Whats a LOC?
i guess im planning on hooking up after market amp to power the after market sub, and leave the ML amp to power the speakers (as ApokC said)
They were refering to the power output of the car is diff to the power output of the amp/sub. I didnt really understand and he didnt go into much detail. Im gonna take it to another shop and see what they say
It's ok. I DJ so Im used to audio and EQ's, but not car audio.
ML AMP is 300watt
My kenwood is 1600watt
The kenwood powers the subs, while the ML powers the rest of the speakers.
I had them put a BASS **** in my ashtray so I can control the levels of the bass.
On my navi screen, for the eq. I turned the HIGHS and MIDS up by 2, and turned the bass down by 4.
I had them rip out my ML sub because I blew it, thus I got the 2 12's.
If you get an ADDITIONAL subwoofer in your trunk, you will need to "port" (make a pathway) for the sub to travel from the trunk to the inside of the car cab.
By me ripping out the blown ML sub, that leaves a nice 8 inch port for the BASS to travel into.
Other people just leave the backseat armrest down in the middle, but if you do this you need to cut out that DOOR PASSAGE to the trunk.
ML AMP is 300watt
My kenwood is 1600watt
The kenwood powers the subs, while the ML powers the rest of the speakers.
I had them put a BASS **** in my ashtray so I can control the levels of the bass.
On my navi screen, for the eq. I turned the HIGHS and MIDS up by 2, and turned the bass down by 4.
I had them rip out my ML sub because I blew it, thus I got the 2 12's.
If you get an ADDITIONAL subwoofer in your trunk, you will need to "port" (make a pathway) for the sub to travel from the trunk to the inside of the car cab.
By me ripping out the blown ML sub, that leaves a nice 8 inch port for the BASS to travel into.
Other people just leave the backseat armrest down in the middle, but if you do this you need to cut out that DOOR PASSAGE to the trunk.
so now are ur 2 12" powering the amp and speakers?
My sub is not blow yet (it blew out once before, so did the speakers, but got em replaced under warrant, My warrany is pretty much done now, so i thought it d b a good time to upgrade
So sine my sub isnt blow yet, and i plan on getting a single 12" sub, i should do what u did oiriginally, connect the aftermarket sub to the amp and have the ML sub power the speakers
If my ML sub does blow out again, would the JL sub b able to power the soeajers as well as the amp? or will i be blwoing out my speakers?
What do u mean by port the sub (create a pathway) to the inside of the car cab? is that for the sound to travel from the trunk to the inside of the car? or are u refering to the wiring?
How do i connect the After market amp to the ML amp, splicing wires and running the input wire from the aftemarket and attach it to the input of the ML? does that creat problems (loss of quality?)
Would most audio shops know how to do this? Plus i want to understand everything in full detail when i talk to them
Whats a LOC?
i guess im planning on hooking up after market amp to power the after market sub, and leave the ML amp to power the speakers (as ApokC said)
They were refering to the power output of the car is diff to the power output of the amp/sub. I didnt really understand and he didnt go into much detail. Im gonna take it to another shop and see what they say
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10-30-10, 07:02 AM
#8
LOC is line out converter, which you did mention. But now I see they're probably talking about the car's alternator might not put out enough amperage. Well for one, I don't think a 500w amp would put too much strain on the electrical system. Second, you can always add a capacitor to help it deliver the power to the subs. Third, I don't think you're going to be turning it up on max to rattle every little thing in your car all the time right?
10-30-10, 07:44 AM
#9
Pole Position
Thread Starter
LOC is line out converter, which you did mention. But now I see they're probably talking about the car's alternator might not put out enough amperage. Well for one, I don't think a 500w amp would put too much strain on the electrical system. Second, you can always add a capacitor to help it deliver the power to the subs. Third, I don't think you're going to be turning it up on max to rattle every little thing in your car all the time right?
Nah defintaly not, thats the whole pt of puttin the amp and sub, if i can get the punch from the bass at a lower volume level thatll be great, right now i have to turn it up properly to hear it at the desired bass level, but its bad for the speakers, and the ML syste, is pretty delicate and blows out easily
Thanks the capacitor might be a good idea, ill look into it. I know alot of people have put in 500w amps, not sure about the long term reliabilty of that but it seems to b the amps of choice
10-30-10, 09:42 AM
#10
Lexus Test Driver
I wanna say in mine they put a HIGH - LOW converter. Not sure.
The only way ure gunna blow ure speakers is if you have them too loud.
PORT = tunnel that the sound can travel through to get from the trunk to the inside of the car, yes
I wouldn't install your amp if I was you, especially if your a noob. Take it to a shop and tell them you want to add you NEW AMP to the current system that you have, and just mount it in the trunk.
PIC TIME!
The only way ure gunna blow ure speakers is if you have them too loud.
PORT = tunnel that the sound can travel through to get from the trunk to the inside of the car, yes
I wouldn't install your amp if I was you, especially if your a noob. Take it to a shop and tell them you want to add you NEW AMP to the current system that you have, and just mount it in the trunk.
PIC TIME!
10-30-10, 10:09 AM
#11
I run my JL 500/1 and JL 10w6v2 with no cap and 0 issues. All I needed was the sub, amp, bass ****, sub enclosure, wiring kit, and a schosche line out converter . Had a couple of friends over and used the how to thread i found on this forum. After I got sounds I went to the JL Audio site and found some recommended setting for a setup similar to mine. The results we way above my expectations!
10-30-10, 10:53 AM
#12
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Yea im def not installing it myself, but i dont wanna go into the shop sounding like a total newbie, plus the shops technicitions arnt as experienced and dont have the ability of techs in the states so i wanna be able to explain to them whats needed
I run my JL 500/1 and JL 10w6v2 with no cap and 0 issues. All I needed was the sub, amp, bass ****, sub enclosure, wiring kit, and a schosche line out converter . Had a couple of friends over and used the how to thread i found on this forum. After I got sounds I went to the JL Audio site and found some recommended setting for a setup similar to mine. The results we way above my expectations!
11-02-10, 06:41 AM
#14
Pole Position
Thread Starter
*JL audio 500/1 + W6V2
VS
**DLS -A6 amp + 12" Hertz HX300
What do u guys recommened? What is the difference in sound? the way the bass hits?
*First option id have to order and deal w shipping and customs
**Second option is available locally
VS
**DLS -A6 amp + 12" Hertz HX300
What do u guys recommened? What is the difference in sound? the way the bass hits?
*First option id have to order and deal w shipping and customs
**Second option is available locally
11-02-10, 06:43 AM
#15
Lexus Test Driver
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I have a JL 500/1 and a 12" W6V2 and I love it. I have NO dimming issues (I do have an optima red top battery as well) and it's the perfect amount of base for me in this car. I didn't want anything too crazy or that took up to much room