willfxp

So I'm looking to change the oil. I usually use ramps because my previous car was lighter and tires were skinnier. My current ramps look too narrow and doesn't seem to raise the car high enough for me to even get under. So I got a floor jack.

I think I found the right place to put it under, lifting it was heavier than I imagined. Got only about half way up and I hear a weird little sound. Not sure if it came from the jack or the car. Lowered the car, and there seems to be a small dent in the lift point. The lift point seems correct, as it's the first metal part after all the plastic covering. I'm a bit scared of lifting it again now.

I also noticed that where I'd put my jackstands is only a thin metal strip where the jack is supposed to slide into. My stands aren't exactly shaped like that, so all the weight will be on that metal strip. Is that right/ok/normal?

I really don't want to be taking this car in to get an oil change

Thanks,

JMcDonald

iTrader: (2)

Yea the jack points on the IS suck bigtime.

llamaboiz

jack point under the engine is the crossmember, hope you didnt try jacking it on the oil pan...

as for the jack stands, my rail thingy is all bent flat already, i dont worry about it but thats just me.

windex

iTrader: (1)

^^I have the same problem on all 4 corners.

willfxp

Yeah, definitely looked like the crossmember. It definitely was not the oil pan It was a bit "interesting" to figure it out because I had no idea what I was looking at. My underbody looked like the picture of the non-AWD version. So I even checked to see if I had front CV's!

Not sure if I want to flatten out the jack points. What if I need to use that metal piece for the emergency jack? I'm used to trucks, so these "little" things are new to me :/

I have a Craftsman 2.25 ton jack. Is that big enough? I think so, as the car doesn't weigh that much.

Thanks

relaxfoo

iTrader: (1)

you lifted it at the right spot, same thing happened to me.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

I put a wood block on the jack to prevent damaging the metal on the car. Never had a problem with it. 2.25 is plenty of jack, the car doesn't even weigh 2 tons.

I've been using the floor pan seams on cars for more than 20 years without any issues. Set the car down gently on the jackstands and you'll be golden. Yes, it would be ideal to have a bracket that fits around this piece and you can order one from Eastwood if you want to spend the money -



You could probably buy four of them and drill holes in your jackstands to accommodate these, or fab up some yourself. They're not complicated.

Sffd103

iTrader: (16)

por design on Lexus' part.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Hardly. They don't build the cars for backyard wrenches, they build them for repair shops with lifts and rubber pads to lift the car by the floor pan seams. They work perfectly.

Maybe you'd like one of those 1950's style bumper jacks instead? We called them widow makers because they were so flippin' dangerous. It was the best Detroit had to offer then.

guacamole

iTrader: (4)

my rail is all bent up.

brociouz

iTrader: (65)

If you're not using the OEM jack you can make a cutout in wood to fit around that thin rail point so it doesn't get all bent.

willfxp

Great ideas!!! I don't have a saw though... But should be easy enough to figure out. I'll post what I come up with.

Thanks!

DOUGLis350

So if you use a hydraulic jack where do you lift the car initially before placing on jack stands?

Bichon

While all this discussion on jacks and lifting points is valuable, I want to mention that I've been very pleased with my set of Rhino ramps. These are inexpensive lightweight plastic ramps that work great for oil changes.

willfxp

Lift the car via the cross member, under the engine. Then when it's high enough, put jack stands on the point right behind the wheel, where you would jack up the car if you were replacing a flat.

HTH