sicilygirl

sicilygirl

So this is the end that my mechanic says is difficult to align using my old tranny mount. Sigh...

Texas149

sicilygirl

Yes, it's the A960E transmission compatible with mine. I will update after I get an opinion from a transmission shop tomorrow. Thanks for your ideas and comments!

sicilygirl

I had a transmission shop test drive it and he said it shifts fine. He said you just align it with the pins and that it's not more complicated than that. So, question answered. Thanks!

Katman789

so there was no issue with the ECU, because i am having trouble with my is250 transmission and want to buy a used Mark X transmission

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Having pulled hundreds of transmissions from all makes and models I'd suggest the following.
1) After the starter is out, remove the bolts from the torque converter! Before removing the bell housing bolts.

2) The right tools: A 1/2" drive 3 and 4 FOOT long extensions for those bell housing bolts. Grab some 1/2" drive impact wobble sockets too. 3/8" drive simply twists too much and energy is lost.

3) Not absolute but a 1/2" drive impact gun w/ >500 ft/lbs of torque.

4) Don't use 12pt thin wall sockets, they break and round off fasteners.

5) Before stabbing trans back into vehicle make certain the torque converter is fully seated in the trans. Do this by supporting the center pilot hub lifting it slightly, and spin it back and forth. Sometimes it helps to jiggle the hub while spinning. There are 3 sets of splines that must engage. Each typically engages at a different time. If these are not fully engaged and you tighten the bell housing bolts you destroy the front pump and likely the converter. When you stab the trans to the engine and get TWO bolts started, and if all is well the trans will slide on the blocks dowel pins and fully seat to the block. Your first check is to MAKE CERTAIN the converter spins freely BEFORE TIGHTENING ANY BOLTS COMPLETELY!!! Now is a good time to align the converter bolts to the flex plate. Close the gap evenly using 4 opposite bolts so the converter doesn't get stuck in the cranks pilot hole.
Once mated, if the converter can not be moved with gentle persuasion, it may have slipped off the splines and need to be removed to fix it. Don't force the bell housing bolts down if the converter does not spin.

If I were installing a used trans I would absolutely dump the converters fluid before installing. Its the only chance you have to start fresh. Plus you can inspect the front seal and hub. Clean and grease them before putting the converter back. Once in, drop the pan and filter. Start fresh.

Good luck...

Kingdom934

Well said.

For this job, I used mostly 1/2" for everything. I only used 3/8" for the manifold bolts or other items where a 1/2" won't fit. You NEED a good set of impact sockets (if you have a impact gun), a LOT of impact spec extensions, and MUST get a set of 1/2 in. Drive Metric Impact Swivel Socket Set. Do NOT use a 12pt sockets (not to be confused with 12mm size) as mention above. Just...don't. 12pt is probably okay for low torque spec bolts. Make sure that the socket is sitting square on the bolt head before zipping it off, otherwise you will round off the bolt or seriously compromising the head.

https://www.harborfreight.com/7-Pc-1...Set-67911.html



You will know if the torque converter is not seated all the way. There's three 'clunks' you'll feel when you are seating the torque converter. If you are unable to spin the torque converter when you got the transmission mated to the engine (use the small starter hole to 'finger tip grab the TC), you may had not seated the TC all the way down. You should be able to rotate the TC so you can match the holes with the flexplate to install your TC bolts. INSTALL the black/dark gray bolt FIRST. This is the alignment bolt. Then proceed to install the rest of the bolts and torque to spec while using another socket/breaker bar to hold down the crank. I used a little of blue locktight...FSM doesn't specify to do so though.