LoL.... Yeah it did..

That shield was previously removed and reinstalled... Maybe I put it back on too tight a couple of years ago...

I could have edited the video, but I just wanted to show the "real" video.

The 100% versus 50% doesn't bother me....

Joe Z

 

thank you santa

 

LoL...

Your just lucky that I had an extra ballast laying around...

... And that I don't charge for DIY Videos.. j/k

Your Welcome

~ Joe Z

 

Horray for Joe!
I've been trying to help our guys thru it but without pictures let alone a video clip it's really hard for them to visualize it or figure it out, now definitely they'll be able to do it without a doubt.

 

Sorry for taking space in this thread to talk about this constantly it seems, but it seems like the best place for it. I hope someone uses some of my work and enjoys it!

So, while searching for a place to get ignition power in the engine bay, I had one final realization about how easy it actually is to have a power source while the engine is running. If you use the power source off of Pin 8 from the integration relay (circuit opening relay switched +12V), you can get one step closer to correct:

Verbose functionality listing with this wiring:

Engine Off, Headlight Switch Off: All Off
Engine Off, Headlight Switch Flash: LED's at 50%, Low Beams + High Beams On
Engine Off, Headlight Switch 1 Click: LED's at 50%, Markers On
Engine Off, Headlight Switch 2 Clicks: LED's at 50%, Markers On, Low Beams On
Engine Off, Headlight Switch 2 Clicks, Pushed Forward: LED's at 50%, Markers On, Low Beams + High Beams On
Engine Off, Headlight Switch 3 Clicks: All Off

Engine Running, Headlight Switch Off: LED's at 100%, All Others Off
Engine Running, Headlight Switch Flash: LED's at 50%, Low Beams + High Beams On
Engine Running, Headlight Switch 1 Click: LED's at 100%, Markers On
Engine Running, Headlight Switch 2 Clicks: LED's at 50%, Markers On, Low Beams On
Engine Running, Headlight Switch 2 Clicks, Pushed Forward: LED's at 50%, Markers On, Low Beams + High Beams On
Engine Running, Headlight Switch 3 Clicks, Daylight: LED's at 100%, All Others Off
Engine Running, Headlight Switch 3 Clicks, Dark: LED's at 50%, Markers On, Low Beams On
Engine Running, Headlight Switch 3 Clicks, Dark, Pushed Forward: LED's at 50%, Markers On, Low Beams + High Beams On

Planning on using 90987-04004 5-pin Toyota/Lexus micro-relays and either two 1N5817 diodes, or a single MBR2545CT rectifying diode.



Jeff

 

I am confused I thought that was all that is needed but apparently it doesn't come with the dust covers, the relay for the fast blinking turnsignals, and apparently something else needed for "three wires" that my buddy was telling me.

I'm very sad that I gotta buy all this other crap now

 

Wow and the news gets worse.... So now my taillights parking lights will be on everytime I want the headlights LED's to be on??? Fawk, I am tempted to sell my sewell headlights I just bought

 

Not if you wire it up like I drew. Haha.

Jeff

 

^
Nice penmanship Jeff!!
---------
Wouldn't auto mode be ok then?

 

the wire diagram look good, but have anyone has done it yet? sorry i am not good as reading the wire diagram, hope someone have actual pics or video clip shown how to wire, it would be easy to do

 

My mistake, found all the dust caps and everything else in a seperate place inside the sewell box. All is well.

 

I'll likely be testing it sometime in the next week or so, and I'll try to take some pics, but really it would be best if you can't do it to have someone else do it. There is a potential to blow fuses, etc. if you wire it up wrong.

Jeff

 

I am Ok with wiring thing, but look at the diagram that you draw, it is a little complicated? that would be better with actual pics hope you would success with that replay wire thing and share with CL member here

 

Jeff--- Nice diagram. Similar to what I had been pondering in my head, just hadn't gotten far enough to secure a power source nor was I thinking about two relays. Not that I think it matters, but I usually see pin 85 of the relay as the ground and 86 as the switch power, but I think it works either way as electricity will flow no matter what. Question though... With two relays don't you have a conflict. With input from Pin 8 you have power when the engine is running triggering the 100% daytime running lamps and with the second relay triggered by the lowbeams and/or markers you would then be sending power for the 50% LED at the same time. How does it know to override the 100% DRLs? Am I missing something in my haste? This is why I was only thinking about triggering the 100% DRL and leaving it at that.

Andy

 

Relay solenoid coils are non-polarized, there's no need to observe polarity, though if you wanted to you could.

Both relays are normally closed, so with the way they're wired up, power is never applied to both terminals on the LED. When the ignition power is on, it's supplying power to the 100% terminal on the LED, as well as power to the 50% control relay, turning off any power to the 50% terminal. If the low beams come on at that point, it energizes the 100% control relay, which removes the power from the ignition, causing the 50% relay to de-energize, once again allowing power to the 50% terminal on the LED.

I think what you were missing is that the second relay is being triggered by power from the first, to remove power from the low/markers, and not triggered by the low/markers.

Jeff