Resealing Headlight
#1
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Resealing Headlight
We are finally getting a nice weekend here in Wisconsin and I have a headlight that is pretty trash so hopefully can fix it.
There is a TON of water/condensation in the housing so I am going to try and dry it out and reseal the whole thing.... when doing this, is there any tricks I should know about?
My current plan is pop out the light (i know it requires taking the bumper off) and removing the ballast (which is shot anyway) and all the bulbs....
Should I use the over to dry it out or just the hot sun all day?!
When resealing is there anything I should be aware of or is it as easy as the internet makes it sound?
Thanks!
There is a TON of water/condensation in the housing so I am going to try and dry it out and reseal the whole thing.... when doing this, is there any tricks I should know about?
My current plan is pop out the light (i know it requires taking the bumper off) and removing the ballast (which is shot anyway) and all the bulbs....
Should I use the over to dry it out or just the hot sun all day?!
When resealing is there anything I should be aware of or is it as easy as the internet makes it sound?
Thanks!
#3
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If you're trying to get rid of the condensation inside your headlight, you might want to try silica packets to absorb the water before you tear everything apart. You should find out where it's leaking water into the housing too, so you can fix that problem. I'd try to blowdry into the housing before actually pulling it apart...in hopes you can evaporate all the water. Taking apart headlights and resealing isn't such an easy task if you don't know what you're doing...Trust me, I've been there lol.
For resealing your headlight...
-When I had my headlights resealed, my retrofitter used butyl sealer.
-Get some clamps to firmly hold the lens to the housing
-Don't use too much, just enough to form a good seal and is air-tight.
-If you do reseal it, leave silica packets inside to soak up all the leftover moisture.
You don't have to remove all the bulbs...they can withstand the heat inside the oven as long as you're not baking it too hot in there. I didn't have HIDs in my car, so I'm going to take a stab in the dark on this. The HIDs (I believe) are mounted on the bottom of your headlights. There's a metal bracket and screws that hold it in place. Remove the bracket and take the ballast out. You're going to have to find a way to get the adapter part of the ballast out of the housing, I'd imagine.
Good luck!
For resealing your headlight...
-When I had my headlights resealed, my retrofitter used butyl sealer.
-Get some clamps to firmly hold the lens to the housing
-Don't use too much, just enough to form a good seal and is air-tight.
-If you do reseal it, leave silica packets inside to soak up all the leftover moisture.
You don't have to remove all the bulbs...they can withstand the heat inside the oven as long as you're not baking it too hot in there. I didn't have HIDs in my car, so I'm going to take a stab in the dark on this. The HIDs (I believe) are mounted on the bottom of your headlights. There's a metal bracket and screws that hold it in place. Remove the bracket and take the ballast out. You're going to have to find a way to get the adapter part of the ballast out of the housing, I'd imagine.
Good luck!
#4
I agree, unless you know where its leaking ..seal around the light, or if your missing a cover on the back that will do it as well. Might as well just bake them open, and reseal. It would be a good time to paint your lights black if thats a future mod.
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To all those that are interested,
Sealing headlights is largely contingent upon the condition during which they are put back together. It's summer, so choose a DRY, mildly hot day. Most of the condensation comes from the heat from the engine bay and/or rain during rainy days. Leaks in the headlight will allow those conditions to exacerbate the condensation.
With respect to sealing, clamps will work, but they will only go so far (the outer edges). From my experience of clearing/blacking out over 15 sets of headlights, brute strength works the best, only when the existing silicone is heated (heat gun). Using your sheer strength is more effective than just clamps since it will press the headlight in its entirety. Adding a layer of silicone after it is all pressed together ensures a permanent seal.
Another trick I use is have the headlight fully sealed, with all but one bulb in. Use a vacuum to suction out all the already existing moisture; this ensures a relatively dry inside. Quickly place the bulb/socket back in.
Although the oven is the best method to scatter heat throughout the headlight, it will form water droplets on your projector lens. They will dry and stain. The oven is the best method, however, to OPEN headlights (some like to use the heat gun).
Hope that helps.
Sealing headlights is largely contingent upon the condition during which they are put back together. It's summer, so choose a DRY, mildly hot day. Most of the condensation comes from the heat from the engine bay and/or rain during rainy days. Leaks in the headlight will allow those conditions to exacerbate the condensation.
With respect to sealing, clamps will work, but they will only go so far (the outer edges). From my experience of clearing/blacking out over 15 sets of headlights, brute strength works the best, only when the existing silicone is heated (heat gun). Using your sheer strength is more effective than just clamps since it will press the headlight in its entirety. Adding a layer of silicone after it is all pressed together ensures a permanent seal.
Another trick I use is have the headlight fully sealed, with all but one bulb in. Use a vacuum to suction out all the already existing moisture; this ensures a relatively dry inside. Quickly place the bulb/socket back in.
Although the oven is the best method to scatter heat throughout the headlight, it will form water droplets on your projector lens. They will dry and stain. The oven is the best method, however, to OPEN headlights (some like to use the heat gun).
Hope that helps.
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#8
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My headlight is really really bad, enough where there is standing water down by the ballast - which shorted it out and fried it.... my headlight is out and I thought it was the bulb, but it wasn't - so I assume its the ballast (considering the water there)
I figured I can't destroy the housing worse than it is already... rather then just go and buy a new (or lightly used) one would try and salvage this for a lot less money.... while I'm in there I'm going to paint it black and if it works and is easy I'll do the other one later (so I'll look like a good for like a week while I'm 50/50 black/stock)
Worst case scenario it doesn't work and I still have to buy a new one.... best case I solve the problem and it only costs me $10 + ballast (~$50)
I figured I can't destroy the housing worse than it is already... rather then just go and buy a new (or lightly used) one would try and salvage this for a lot less money.... while I'm in there I'm going to paint it black and if it works and is easy I'll do the other one later (so I'll look like a good for like a week while I'm 50/50 black/stock)
Worst case scenario it doesn't work and I still have to buy a new one.... best case I solve the problem and it only costs me $10 + ballast (~$50)
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