Anyone use anything other than OEM Plugs? Wondering if its worth it? Looking at the E3, or something like it....

thanks!

 

I initially used the NKG Iridium IX because they were a cheaper option. A day after installing them, my check engine light came, VSC light came on, slippery car came on. The car felt like crap while driving, it would stutter at times too.

I purchased the Denso spark plugs for $77 shipped from ebay, swapped out the ones that I had installed earlier and the car is now running perfect. Lights came off by themselves.

Moral of the story, you drive a Lexus, don't try to skimp on spark plugs or anything else for that matter.

 

I did it on mine last night. The driver is a pain in **ss. It took me six hours, just because I spent 3 hours driving around looking for hex tools. Those who plan to change, make sure you have a long-stem 5mm hex tool. Two hex bolts are in a well so you need a long-stem hex, otherwise can't get to it. I got mine at Sears in case you wonder.

I used OP's guide, thanks much. But I want to mention that there are few more things attached to the manifold you need to remove that OP didn't mention in his guide. But nothing major. Many thanks for the guide, OP.

 

Couple of points:
1. The Fuel line doesn't have to be removed from the injector. I think it's easier to remove the injector altogether (the two side nuts, and pay attention to the gasket). That's how the mechanic did it for me, and it looked easy
2. With the intake manifold removed, you can see your intake valves. If dirty, this is the time to use Seafoam to clean them up. Well worth it when replacing the spark plugs. Make sure you have an ODB card reader to reset the check engine once the gunk removed by the Seafoam is burned.

After seeing someone experienced doing it I can say it looked like a piece of cake, and it took 30 minutes altogether. But I guess the key word is "experienced" Lexus mechanic...

 

Thank you prankster, this DIY helped me through my recent spark plug change.

Just don't like you longhorn avatar

 

any specific torque spec on the fuel line bolt ?
*by the cold start inector..

 

does anyone feel a difference once changed or see any mileage increase?

 

First offer Prankster amazing job and heck of an effort.
I will further elaborate on your guide by providing details included in the 2007 Lexus Repair Manual for IS 250 & IS 350 Volume 2 Pub. No. RM03D0U2. This is the repair manual that Lexus actually produces for the IS. Below you will find torque specs, replacement spark plug details, and spark plug gap info. I would advise members to not deviate from these “official / OEM” specs.
Replacement Spark Plugs
OEM Manufacturer: Denso
OEM Product: FK20HBR11
Spark Plug torque: 25 N*m (254 kgf*cm, 18ft. *Lbf)
Spark Plug Gap listed on table below (Per Chilton’s and confirmed in Lexus Repair Manual)

Year Engine ID/VIN Engine Displacement Liters (cc) Spark Plug Gap (in.) Fuel Pump (psi) Ignition Timing (deg.) Idle Speed (rpm) Valve Clearance
Intake Exhaust

2006 4GR-FSE 2.5 (2500) 0.039- 28-85 8-12B ③ 650- HYD HYD

0.043 750

3MZ-FE 3.3 (3311) 0.039- 44-50 8-12B ③ 630- 0.006- 0.010-

0.043 730 0.010 0.014

2GR-FSE 3.5 (3456) 0.039- 28-85 8-12B ③ 600- HYD HYD

0.043 700

3UZ-FE 4.3 (4293) 0.039- 44-50 8-12B 700- 0.006- 0.010-

0.043 800 0.010 0.014


Ignition coil bolt torque: 10 N*m (102 kgf*cm, 7 ft.*lbf)
Install Intake Air Surge Tank
1. Install a new gasket to the intake air surge tank
2. Using a 5 mm hexagon socket wrench, install the 6 bolts.
(A) Torque : Bolts except A (lone bolt located on the back of the intake on the driver’s side)18 N*m (184 kgf*cm, 13 ft.*lbf)
3. Install the bolt and 2 nuts to the intake air surge tank.
1. Torque: Bolt A: 21 N*m (214 kgf*cm, 15 ft.*lbf)
2. Torque: Nut 16 N*m (163 kgf*cm, 12 ft.*lbf)
4. Install the surge tank stay to the intake surge tank.
1. Torque: 21 N*m (214 kgf*cm, 15 ft.*lbf)
5. Connect the water hose joint with the bolt.
1. Torque: 10 N*m (102 kgf*cm, 7ft. *lbf)
6. Connect the ventilation hose to the intake air surge tank.
7. Connect the wire harness and hose to the intake air surge tank.
8. Connect the purge VSV to the intake air surge tank.
(A) Torque: 18 N*m (184 kgf*cm, 13 ft.*lbf)
9. Connect the vacuum hose to the intake air surge tank.

 

great write up...

 

I just finished reading this write up, The plugs at the end of the 60 mile didn't look bad at all. Is it really worth changing them at the 60K or should I just forget about them. I'm thinking about trading in the car by 70K-75k.

Every other car I had, I was able to change them blindfolded and didn't require a change to 100,000k. But I would change them because they only took 8 minutes.

Also how many people had to change their gasket, it seem like the old one can be reused as long as you're careful removing them.

Sorry, not trying to sound cheap. But all my cash is still going toward my cruiser. My Is250 is just a rain day Daily driver.

 

I changed the intake manifold gasket along with the throttle body gasket as well. I did this for peace of mind.

 

You can't always tell about plugs simply by how they "look" and we've seen a wide range of how they "look" from other folks who've done changes at 60k.

If you can do it yourself, do it. It's when it should be done, and on top of that you won't have to explain to people you're selling the car to at 75k miles why it's 15k past due for a major service.

 

so to resurrect an old thread...couldnt find the answer to my question. when doing the spark plug change, other than spark plugs and tools is anything else required? mainly new gaskets? if so can you provide part numbers. thanks.

 

Sorry to resurrect, but I have a question. All went well using this guide until I was tightening the hex bolts to the manifold. I overtightened one of the bolts and the bolt snapped. I attached photos.

Is it safe to drive? The other bolts are all tightened. Is there any way to remove the broken bolt?

Thanks

 

good job !!!