Hoovey689

iTrader: (16)

Hehe I wish I knew what you meant hah. Here's a pic of what I have for the fogs. I'll list what I got and maybe you can explain them

The two top ones are the HID bulbs with four wire/harnesses. To the left are two black boxes which I believe are error code eliminators but I don't think these are even necessary. To the right of those are blue boxes which are the ballasts with two harnesses coming from the wire and a harness on the box. The crazy looking one below, I have no idea though It might be a relay, two grounds stem from it as do two wires with four harnesses. I guess the question is then, is all of this needed or just the two ballasts and two HIDs? Flip the plug?

swtjlsy

iTrader: (6)

It is suppose to be plug and play and well this kit is not.

c-low

iTrader: (1)

ddm sucks sorry tp bash. but i took hi/lo/ and fogs out.

DCoolBeans

What did you order? Relays/code elim?

Have you called up DDM?

L3XOTIC

I have DDM HID's on both me and my wifes Lexus. Awesome quality, great output and killer price.

DsJackson

Ok no worries this is an easy fix. What vroom is trying to say: your car has an oem connector that plugs into your oem fogs. Now with the kit, your oem connector plugs into the metal box (ballast) that DDM gave you. Just reverse the polarity by plugging this in backwards (flip it) and it should work. Plug everything else in normally.

This isn't really DDM's fault because some cars' polarity is one way, our lexus is the other. I feel like this is not as well known on these forums because most people only upgrade their lows and not so much the fogs.

DsJackson

Heh, ok reading this now... looks like you somehow bought all the bells and whistles too (code eliminator & relayed harness to power the ballasts). The relays are a good idea. The code eliminators I don't even know what they do but pretty sure you don't need them.

Please check with DDM before doing this because I use the slimline ballasts and I see you have Raptors. Likely this doesn't change anything but at least find out if the Raptor ballasts have reverse polarity protection.

Anyways, all you have to do is reverse the polarity of the power to the ballasts and/or the relay. To do that:

I am assuming the big harness with ground wires is the relay harness. All this does is powers your ballasts directly from you battery. The switch (relay) is controlled by the oem connector that plugs into your oem fog that I mentioned in my previous post. I.e. you turn your fogs on, the oem connector is "on" and it tells your relay to switch power on from your battery to ballast. Plug your oem connector into the harness (A from photo below) as normal (don't reverse it) then test this setup y having someone switch the fogs on & off - you should hear a click coming from the relay (which is what will turn your ballasts on once you connect everything else). If you don't hear a click, reverse the polarity and test again - you should hear a click. Once this works, wire up your battery & ground wires (C from photo below), plug in the ballasts like normal, wire it all up and test the fogs. If it doesn't work, switch the polarity of the batter and ground wires & test again. Should work.

Geez, wish I could just show you in person. Hope that helps.

EDIT: perfect, here we go - the relay harness

DsJackson

It's plug'n play.. just a matter of how you plug it in

Vroomin350

iTrader: (28)

lol exactly, or you can kip using all that extra stuff you bought (relay,eliminators and its super simple)


all you need is the two ballast, and two bulbs with attached wires, plug the female and male connectors, thats easy, plug in the hid bulbs plug that goes into the OEM cable, then the PLUG THAT GOES ON TO THE BALLAST, that one you flip.

DsJackson

party pooper

Really though, the harness is a good thing to have

Hoovey689

iTrader: (16)

thanks for the info Vroomin350 and DsJackson. Ok so from what I understand, I hook everything up (in the pic) and reverse the polarity/flip the plug where it connects to the OEM connector (two plugs next to the HIDs). Then ground the two grounding wires from the relay to the battery

DsJackson

yes, assuming you had everything hooked up "normal" the 1st time you either need to reverse the polarity of your relay or power wires to the ballast or both. Make sure the relay (oem connector) works 1st by listening for the click when turning fogs on & off, then do the power to the ballast (two wires from relay to battery).

edit: please check with DDM to see if your ballasts are reverse polarity protected 'cause I don't know about the Raptors... I don't want you to fry your ballasts doing this. There, I am now officially not at fault just in case Thinking more about it, it's most likely just the relay that needs to be reversed. I'm betting/hoping it will work after you switch that & connect everything else normal.

DCoolBeans

I noticed that my oem fogs get wayyyy hotter than my headlights.

With a 35w HID kit would it run cooler than the oem halogen fogs?

filidog

hey hoovey2411. if they didn't light up one of 2 things might of happened. some times the plug in plug-n-play are backwards. switch the plug around(if they both dont turn on at all) and they shoud work. if they flicker bad and dont turn on then its a power proub. drawing to much energy. and you shoud get a harness.

filidog

I have the philips LVQ 212 ballast. the take / nom 3.5 amps and at max 20 amps for one ballastso at start they might pull up to 40 amps from your car. a lot of the cheeper plug and play set ups dont have any power rating at all on them.