When did you start to drive your Lexus hard?
09-14-11, 09:50 AM
#31
Lexus Test Driver
I dont really remember the mileage, but I specifically remember a 335 thinking they were all cute riding my rear. I let them pass, getting a car length ahead. Then stomped them.
09-14-11, 04:27 PM
#34
Lexus Test Driver
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I ripped on the black F Sport at the dealership on the test drive....then told them I wanted to buy the blue F Sport lol. Just kidding. I still have not really ripped on my IS..It's at 2,500 miles.
I just have a 250....After having S2000's that redline at 9k, the IS is just a good DD.
I just have a 250....After having S2000's that redline at 9k, the IS is just a good DD.
09-15-11, 07:45 AM
#37
Being "easy" on the engine is exactly the wrong way to do it... and a good way to get poorly seated rings.
Here's the procedure Lance (Lobuxracer) has been advocating for many years:
Originally Posted by Lobuxracer
I have a standard break in procedure that I use, it takes about an
hour if you are diligent, and when you are done, break in is complete.
The biggest point of grief with a new engine is the unrelieved
stresses in the pistons. You want to heat and cool them in a
predictable way with an incrementally increasing thermal load. I
usually start at 20% throttle and go in 10 or 15% increments until I
get full throttle. Bursts should be 15 to 30 seconds, followed by 5
minutes part throttle cruise to let the pistons cool and resize
themselves. You can figure out that 30 seconds in top gear at full
throttle will have you going pretty fast down the road, so you need a
clear stretch to do this, but I have never had a problem with leak
down or bad piston fit using this technique. That crap about "XXX"
miles is just so the average driver doesn't blow things up.
Also, I assemble the cylinders dry, but turn the engine over for about
15 seconds with no fuel or ignition before my initial start up, then I
run it up to about 25% of redline as soon as it catches for 30 seconds
or so. Once I have my initial 30 seconds and no gushing leaks, I take
it out for a drive right away. I want to put pressure on the rings and
valves to get them to seat well and that can't be done without a load,
so off we go down the road for about 5 minutes, then return to the
shop to check for oil or coolant leaks. If all is OK, back out on the
road for final break in.
hour if you are diligent, and when you are done, break in is complete.
The biggest point of grief with a new engine is the unrelieved
stresses in the pistons. You want to heat and cool them in a
predictable way with an incrementally increasing thermal load. I
usually start at 20% throttle and go in 10 or 15% increments until I
get full throttle. Bursts should be 15 to 30 seconds, followed by 5
minutes part throttle cruise to let the pistons cool and resize
themselves. You can figure out that 30 seconds in top gear at full
throttle will have you going pretty fast down the road, so you need a
clear stretch to do this, but I have never had a problem with leak
down or bad piston fit using this technique. That crap about "XXX"
miles is just so the average driver doesn't blow things up.
Also, I assemble the cylinders dry, but turn the engine over for about
15 seconds with no fuel or ignition before my initial start up, then I
run it up to about 25% of redline as soon as it catches for 30 seconds
or so. Once I have my initial 30 seconds and no gushing leaks, I take
it out for a drive right away. I want to put pressure on the rings and
valves to get them to seat well and that can't be done without a load,
so off we go down the road for about 5 minutes, then return to the
shop to check for oil or coolant leaks. If all is OK, back out on the
road for final break in.
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