Set it at 0 degrees for the fronts. When I had my inner wear issue.. my alignment was within spec. Front inner tires was gone @ 19k and the rear was still fresh. The factory alignment spec was meant to improved handling, not the life of the tires. So.. 0.00/0.00 degress for the front on each side and .12/.12 for the rear. END OF STORY!

 

^
If that was true, my 07 would of worn out already but it's still looking good in terms of wear and it's been a year and has about close to 15K on the odo since they were new.

I question if the equipment and or person doing the work is being done correctly. More like to me, there are a lot of stringers that know how to string rackets - however there a few that actually can do a proper job and not something that is shotty (ie lose, inconsistant tension on the lines etc...).

 

your 07 was a AWD. We're talking about RWD here. 2 completely different suspensions.

 

^
Yes but there was a report of someone having inner wear also on an AWD, so it does have some implication.

As for my RWD, no issues on it. If I were to probably ask the tech about 0 toe, he'll probably would say who mentioned that because he never had complaints from the IS/IS-F vehicle's that he's done from customers using factory specficiations from what I know. I actually asked him if he ever heard of inner wear issues on the car too, he said none as long as it's aligned properly.

 

someone? dude.. there's probably like thousands of 2is owners with inner tire issues and you're telling me the problem is not our factory spec but "the equipment and or person doing the work is being done correctly" please.. I'm done here. Let us all know when your f-sport hit 20k and tell us how's your inner wear is doing then.

 

Umm yes. Lot of people can say they know how how do to this but it's the results that show. Same thing with stringers as I play badminton - a whole lot of stringers who string, but only so few are actually good and know their stuff. Bad stringers: lose tension, warp frame, crack/break, shuttle bounces funny, doesn't feel solid, you name it. Funny when the customers complain at them, they defend their work. When they give it to me (since they know me, and I spoke to them about my friend stringer who is good), give it to a good stringer, they are like suprized how the racket feels and plays and continue to go see him.

Have a look at the 08 IS report. It was aligned at the seller dealership before I bought it - service records which I confirmed had was aligned by them. I went to the place where I normally get my alignment and saw the report - speaks for itself sure enough it was off from the dealer. I'm sure when the dealership aligned it, it showed up well for them - but sounds like something was off, get the idea?

Naa no need to do the 20K stuff. If customers are willing their exotic cars like Lambo, Ferrari's only done by him and no one else, he must be good since I seen those cars at his shop. Also he's known in the industry and was a former racer himself.

 

I talked to the alignment tech this morning on the phone about the 0 toe just for the sake of asking since I was asking about wheel size as well.

He basically said that is a lot of miss-information on alignment (especially forums and does not read them). The alignment setup varies depending on the suspension system which is used in the car. The camber and toe are related and work in conjunction with each other therefore, both need to be set up correctly. In otherwords, depending on what the camber is, the toe needs to be set accordingly to offset it.

In my case of my alignment, he was explained it clearly as he went over the report with me on the phone for my car and it made sense.

With this 0 toe, the camber needs to be adjusted properly then the toe can be set to the correct parameter accordingly.

 

How about we go to the source? LEXUS - the guys who designed and manufactured the car - clearly state toe can be in or out and still be acceptable.



What this is saying is, standard toe is 1mm toe out (A -B where A is the front measurement) with an acceptable limit of +/-2mm. So you'll get green lights from +3.00mm to -1.00 mm. Zero just happens to be in that range, so a zero setting isn't going to have Lexus concerned at all.

This doesn't mean all possible combinations and permutations will wear properly, but for someone to say zero toe does not work ignores the facts. Many have tried this and it has resolved their inside edge wear problems. I got lucky with my IS350 - it did not wear the inside edges out, but it did wear the outer tread blocks faster than the inner ones. I attributed it to my driving, but have since realized it was too much toe in.

And since camber cannot be changed on any 2IS without 4WD, saying there is a magic combination doesn't mean anything either. There is a right number.

Finally, no rubber bushed suspension can be set to exacting precision. It isn't possible, and anyone in the business knows this very well. What we're always trying to achieve is best wear given the knowledge that the settings we choose will change dynamically in service, so we try to find what works best for the car, driver, and the roads where we normally drive. The only way to get there is experimentation.

There's a lot of misinformation about a lot of things on the Internet. This isn't one of them.

 

I know this thread is a bit old, but I'd like to get something straightened out before I continue reading the many threads on this topic. Isn't a positive number for toe, either in mm, inches or degrees, called toe-in? And a negative number is toe-out? I know what the Lexus diagram is saying, but I have seen errors before. Like once it said Torque: 37 N.m (377 kgf.cm, 27 in.lbf) but that should've been 27 ft.lbf. So shouldn't the toe be B - A?

 

Here are my 2 cents...I had this same problem with my first 2 sets of tires. Both were bridgestone protenza. The stock tires the ISx25 comes with. I had alignments and all that good stuff but they still wore on the inside edge well before they the tire was to the replace tire indicators. The third and forth set of tire have been Michelin PSS. With these tires the problem has gone away. Tires wear like normal and last about 3 times longer. In my opinion bridgestone tires are *****ty *** tires. Get a good set of Michelin and see if the problem goes away.

 

You mean Michelin Pilot Super Sports? You've already gone through two sets of them? How much are you getting them for?

 

I seriously got about 10,000 on my first 2 bridgestones becuse they wore down to the metal on the tires. With the Michelin Pilot Super Sports I got about 35,000 on the first set and this second set is about 12,000 right now with plenty to go.

keep in mind the tires cant be rotated side to side or front to back so with that said 35,000 is pretty decent if you dont run bald tires.

 

With the Bridgestone Turanza ER33 stock tires I have on my car. The alignment tech said my tires can be swapped side to side since they are positional tires.

They are doing well wear wise (inspected a few days ago) even thou both the alignment tech and I know these tires are not great especially with UTQG of 140 for a summer tire besides them being notorious for road noise. I do plan to get Michelin Pilot Super Sport once the Bridgestone's wear out as I was advised not to spoil them since they came with the car.

 

I meant how much are you paying for them? I was considering them, but they were quite expensive and I don't drive aggressively so I don't need that level of grip. I'm mainly concerned with the tire life, but if they do indeed get three times the life...

 

The price really wasnt that much more. I dont remember for sure but maybe $20-30 more a tire. With the lack of road noise and superior wearing it is well worth it. My first sets were the Bridgestone Protenza. I gave up on Bridgestone after that.