Spacers question
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Oregon
Posts: 711
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Spacers question
So I've searched and can't find a good answer to my question. For those who run spacers, what's the biggest size you run without extended studs? I'm looking to get 10mm hubcentric front and rear but if I can avoid pressing in new studs that would be awesome.
#5
Driver School Candidate
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CA
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I wouldn't go more than 3 mm without extended studs. Especially if you are driving hard. The studs take less than 30 minutes per wheel. Remove caliper and dust shield, whack them out with a hammer, add new ones from the rear and tighten them with an open ended lug nut and washer. Done.
#6
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
There's gonna be a lot of varying opinions lol. Some people will say any spacer should have extended studs to compensate for the lost length. Most will say 3-5mm is safe, and anything over requires extended studs. Then you'll even have some say you can run 10mm or larger lol.
#7
Don't sweat swapping out the studs. On the front you DO NOT have to remove the caliper or the dust shield. There is a void in the dust shield that will allow you to knock the factory studs out. On the rear you have to remove the caliper and the rotor but it's still no big deal. It took me less than an hour to do all four.
Trending Topics
#8
If you're using spacers for your stocks, then you should do 15mm front and rear. I used them before I got aftermarket wheels and it gives a nice look..i was also lowered on h&r's with no rubbing..ichiba v2 spacers have the studs built in so its pretty much bolt-on..just my .02
#10
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Oregon
Posts: 711
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah I think I will just get some 5mm w/o studs. I will be getting wheels with tax returns so it's not really worth spending the money on the expensive ones and I wouldn't want to press in some cheap studs on my car. Thanks for the info guys!
#11
Moderator
iTrader: (10)
Don't sweat swapping out the studs. On the front you DO NOT have to remove the caliper or the dust shield. There is a void in the dust shield that will allow you to knock the factory studs out. On the rear you have to remove the caliper and the rotor but it's still no big deal. It took me less than an hour to do all four.
Now, exactly what extended studs did you go with...ARPs for an IS300 I've heard work like a charm? Can you use these extended studs with a OEM rim?
#12
Very good info! I've been deciding whether or not to do this when I go aftermarket; glad to know it is indeed very simple.
Now, exactly what extended studs did you go with...ARPs for an IS300 I've heard work like a charm? Can you use these extended studs with a OEM rim?
Now, exactly what extended studs did you go with...ARPs for an IS300 I've heard work like a charm? Can you use these extended studs with a OEM rim?
The only thing you can't do is run any wheel with the extended studs without running the spacers. (Unless you are using open ended lug nuts or extended lug nuts.) You don't want to bottom out the lug nut on the stud before it gets tight.
#14
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (20)
Very good info! I've been deciding whether or not to do this when I go aftermarket; glad to know it is indeed very simple.
Now, exactly what extended studs did you go with...ARPs for an IS300 I've heard work like a charm? Can you use these extended studs with a OEM rim?
Now, exactly what extended studs did you go with...ARPs for an IS300 I've heard work like a charm? Can you use these extended studs with a OEM rim?
http://www.ichibausa.com/ProductDeta...tCode=TO-12540