Fender problems D:
12-13-11, 09:48 PM
#16
Well, I mean when I bought the car, that area was already loose cause a few of the inner clips had been broken off. My friend drilled a hole and set a screw there and it held up fine. The reason it came out this time was because I was attempting to loosen the locking ring on my coils, and I slipped and pulled the rear quarter panel out. Hopefully, zip ties and some 3M tape will work.
And for the record - it held up fine with the rubbing on the 265. I plan on pulling my fenders more anyways, so I am not going to downsize tires.
And for the record - it held up fine with the rubbing on the 265. I plan on pulling my fenders more anyways, so I am not going to downsize tires.
12-13-11, 09:58 PM
#17
How come no one suggests to get rid of the drifter/VIP look and go with the proper offset and wheel combo.
My MKIV JZA80 uses an 18' X 11" +40 TE37 with a 315/30R18 tire on it. I needed to have some quarter panel work done to make it happen but I know the setup fits properly and will not rub even at the track.
My 18" X 9.5" +40 LE37 in the rear of my IS350 never rub with a 285/35R18 tire on them. I'm using a 235/40R18 upfront on a 18"X 8.5" +40 LE37 and no rubbing either.
My MKIV JZA80 uses an 18' X 11" +40 TE37 with a 315/30R18 tire on it. I needed to have some quarter panel work done to make it happen but I know the setup fits properly and will not rub even at the track.
My 18" X 9.5" +40 LE37 in the rear of my IS350 never rub with a 285/35R18 tire on them. I'm using a 235/40R18 upfront on a 18"X 8.5" +40 LE37 and no rubbing either.
12-13-11, 10:13 PM
#18
I wasn't suggesting you downsize tires, just figuring out another way to properly fabricating your issue. I wouldn't throw tape,glue, or zip ties on my Lexus just to save money. Why buy a nice car if you can't afford to maintain it right? But thats just me...But like I said best way to ghetto fab is like what another member posted...Zip tie it. If you were local I'd be able to lend a hand. Good luck with your fix.
btw, the issue isn't the fender/quarter panel itself - that's sheet metal. btw, when metal meets vulcanized rubber, vulcanized rubber loses... but i digress. the issue is at that corner where the rear bumper meets rear fender. there's nothing to secure the bumper to the fender (because the bumper tab has broken off), and now every time there's a sudden compression in the suspension system in the rear, the tires are going to come up and push the bumper outward. no amount of tape or zip ties will hold it in place, because if the OP lets the tire come up and bump against that corner enough times, it'll undo whatever was done that was holding the bumper in place.
i'm going to go on record and say that the OP's tire size is not going to work without more camber. heck, we've even exchanged PM's, and even then i've recommended 245/35-19.
if you want to play, you've got to pay. cheaping out with a mickey-mouse solution will only make the issue worse and more expensive to fix.
12-14-11, 01:38 PM
#20
Pole Position
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Ca
Posts: 344
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Who said it couldn't be done in a cheap way? Almost free, actually. Had to buy 3M tape, but I needed it for my visors and rear lip anyways. 
Don't get me wrong. It wasn't the fact that I couldn't afford a new bumper. Money isn't a problem for me. It's more of spending money unnecessarily - money that could go to other mods. I figured there had to be a cheaper way to get the bumper to connect evenly again, and it did - no glue, or anything.
I was looking at the bumper and how the two tabs connected to hold the bumper. I noticed that there was a bit of wiggle room right atop the upper tabs. I figured why not give it a shot. I took a small screwdriver, and I pushed the upper tab down so that the lower tab could fit in that wiggle room. It held the bumper fine, and back when I first got the car, my original screw fabrication to hold the bumper in that specific area held well. Part of the fender clip was still able to be held down by the screw, so I simply tighten the screw as much as I could. Voila. A little ghetto, but I saved myself from buying a new $400 bumper. \(^___^)/
I also threw a little 3M tape behind it just to be on the safe side. Drove over and picked up three of my friends and threw them in the backseat 150-180lbs each. Created some rubbing here and there - the bumper stays in place.
Thanks for the help everyone!
Don't get me wrong. It wasn't the fact that I couldn't afford a new bumper. Money isn't a problem for me. It's more of spending money unnecessarily - money that could go to other mods. I figured there had to be a cheaper way to get the bumper to connect evenly again, and it did - no glue, or anything.
I was looking at the bumper and how the two tabs connected to hold the bumper. I noticed that there was a bit of wiggle room right atop the upper tabs. I figured why not give it a shot. I took a small screwdriver, and I pushed the upper tab down so that the lower tab could fit in that wiggle room. It held the bumper fine, and back when I first got the car, my original screw fabrication to hold the bumper in that specific area held well. Part of the fender clip was still able to be held down by the screw, so I simply tighten the screw as much as I could. Voila. A little ghetto, but I saved myself from buying a new $400 bumper. \(^___^)/
I also threw a little 3M tape behind it just to be on the safe side. Drove over and picked up three of my friends and threw them in the backseat 150-180lbs each. Created some rubbing here and there - the bumper stays in place.
Thanks for the help everyone!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post