Hey guys. Recently I bought a couple of ijdmtoy LED DRL replacement bulbs. Well they ended up sending me the wrong product (I'm pretty sure these are either highbeam or fog replacement lights) and just for ****s and gigg;les I took them out and connected them to me highbeams to see if I might like them anyway and keep them and just order another pair of DRLs. Well not only did the LED's not light up when I connected them, when I disconnected the ijdmtoys and reconnected to stock THOSE didn't light up either. Currently I have NO highbeams and one DRL, I've tried resetting the ECU and that was no help.
Has this happened to anyone else? Any ideas on how to fixe?
Thanks guys

 

Did you check the fuse?

 

It's almost certainly the fuse.

 

99% sure it's the fuse.

 

Umm...don't the high beams also serve as the DRL?

 

Not exactly, They share a housing but the DRL's are located at the top of the housing and towards the outside while the HB's are the bulbs you see. So the fuse? I'll see if I can get it to work after checking that. thanks guys

 

Incorrect, the DRL and HiBeam are the same bulb (9005), the bulb at the top is the parking lite (194), unless the 2011's are different..

 

I thought the DRL was the main bulb in the middle and the smaller bulb at the top and outside were the "parking" lights that were on when the headlights were on? I guess I'll take another look at my car tomorrow lol

 

Yep this is what I was trying to say

 

Yup, the parking light is also sometimes referred to as a city light, and it's a 168/194 base. The 2011+ LED DRLs are indeed a little different.

 

The DRL and High Beam are the same bulb. Essentially, the DRL is the high beam at half power. The little bulb you see in the corner of the high beam housing is the parking light and those are on whenever your head lights are on.

You have to be very careful when installing the decoder with your stock harness, the positive (red wire) of the decoder must be aligned with the car's positive wire or else a few things may happen:

1. The fuse may blow (like in this case).

2. The decoder may pop (symptoms include a "pop" noise, smoke, or liquid coming out from the decoder)

Hope that helps.

 

^^^^^agree!

 

Lol then this thread is about me being stupid, IJDMtoys stuff being awesome (I got the lights working....it was the fuse) and about thanking everyone who posted in this thread for dealing with my dur-dur.

 

Unless it's a 2011+ car which does not have HID/LED daytime lights then it will be the 168/194 base.

 

Yup, which is why I said "The 2011+ LED DRLs..."