DBrown2

Well after 3 months... I have decided to tackle this myself. I have read and re read all the post, along with studying the pics. A pic that seems to be missing, is the repair pic. I am of the mind set, of just using the Pen on all 4 Contacts as some have done and call it good. I just was curious to see what the finished product looks like. All the pics show, prior to trying to fix the real issue. IE no pics of using a razor to scratch at the screen, and then showing the Writer Pen fix..
Anyone got pics of that???

Unkarg

Five months down the road and our nav froze again. Sure enough I opened it up and repaired the other set of contacts which were untouched over the summer and we're back in business. Awesome DIY to the rescue again. Seems like it's just a question of when these connections will fail.

Unkarg

I didn't take any pics. But here's some more detail:

I've never had to etch the screen. Where the edge of the glass meets the ribbon there is a thin clear, soft, rubbery layer. I cut through this with an exacto knife. Under this there is a dark brown/grey insulation that looks like it covers the conductor. I GENTLY scratched through this to reveal the conductor that is shiny silver metallic in color. I use just enough pen fluid to cover the exposed conductor all the way to the edge of the glass. Before drawing the trace it looks like there is a .5 mm gap from conductor to glass, my guess is the original contact point is on the other front facing side. I let the pen ink dry for 30 mins while I played 2 rounds of SC2 and then gently blow dried with hot air for 10 mins. Checked the resistance with a multimeter and reassembled car.

There's a decent pic in this guide
http://snapguide.com/guides/fix-the-...a-lexus-is350/

DBrown2

Well, thanks for the link with pics... clearly I didnt chip away enough at the glass, or the material and my writer pen didnt work. I saw several say they fixed 1 or 2... and some say they just did all 4 which is what I attempted.

Clearly for a 1st time guy, plan for 3 hours total time. The trick that held me up was not knowing what to look for when repairing the contacts. Plus that freaking tight fit of fixing the Strip wire the bigger one, not the one you repair... back between the two pieces. I have small hands but wow... surely there is a better way of taking it apart that you dont have to do that.

Then I also found out... My dash is Melting... it now looks like a pack of rats tried to get into the radio area.

Plus my Air Vents didnt really want to come out... I would suggest 4 tiny flat heads to hold down the tabs.

If anyone has good pics of the 4 connections prior to fixing and after fixing that would really help some of us non electrical engineer guys out.

Unkarg

The hardest part of the disassembly is the vent. The four tabs are designed to snap down when you push down, however its possible to break or damage the snap mechanism if not careful.

Once you get the nav out, i found the best way to access it is to undo 4 side edge screws which allow you to take the entire top part and pull it away from the finished front user interface cover. This isn't obvious. Then 4 screws in the back allow you to remove the screen, and disconnect the data ribbon. When reassembling, one can attach the data ribbons and then reattach the screen.


Hope you guys hook daki up. I've never met him, but he must be a saint to fix so many cars. I've fixed our car twice now and its like a 4 hour operation for me. I move slowly though as to not facepalm and put a screwdriver through my seats .

isam250

iTrader: (7)

How are you guys getting a reading with the multimeter? Doesn't the unit have to be connected to a power source to get a reading?

Unkarg

The meter supplies the power and in this case it measures resistance, set it to read resistance or ohms and calibrate it to around the 2000 ohm setting.

isam250

iTrader: (7)

mines is frozen but i have the fly audio. does the same thing apply?

greg0126

iTrader: (2)

I have no idea. You can try taking it apart and letting everybody know.

rebol2n

Done everything, got a good layer of conductive material on there with some of the glass chipped off, multimeter still read nothing. With the screen upside down, my pin 1 to 3 => 490 ohms, 2 to 4 => nothing, 1 to 2 => nothing, 1 to 4 read 1900 ohms, 3 to 4 read 1900 ohms, so that mean pin 2 is bad.

But why my multimeter wont read anything on pin 2 to any other pin!!! , even with the screen "touched"

Every other pin reads fine.

help please..

Unkarg

My understanding is that 1,3 should have a reading and 2,4 should have a reading.

It seems bad to me that 1,4 and 3,4 have a reading in your case. Someone correct me if i'm wrong.

TooFly4Ya

Seems to be happening to everyone now, for those who have not experience this the Nav works perfectly before hand then one day you get in the car after going into a store turn the car on, go on to press I agree like you did thousands of times before and it just DOESN'T WORK! So it looks like I'll be doing this soon just happen to me! No way im paying $2,500 when I can pay $50 max waste 3 hours max and do it my self. Just have to find the time...Anyone in Orlando want to help, message me, I'll pay for beer!

CPinLA41

Hey all:

I did the fix and everything is working great....EXCEPT.....

when I went to re-pair my phone to the nav system, the "TELEPHONE" icon in the nav system is gone. disappeared. like it was never there. STRANGE. its the only thing i notice to be different.

Any thoughts? tips? advice? Did this happen to anyone else?

-CP

jason2713

I just wanted to let you know that I bought the eBay screen for $300, installed it this weekend, and it's completely fixed.

What this thread doesn't tell you is there is a board behind the screen that needs to be transferred to the new screen. It's pretty simple, no screws needed to be undone if you have it completely out. The plugs are idiot proof, don't try to put a square into a round hole, and you're good

Jake

I just bought a new screen on eBay from Japan for $300. Comes with a year warranty I believe. Can't go wrong?