aira

I just bought mine from goodsupply0889 for $175 as they have the sold the most. Hopefully this works out for me!

DaKi3241

iTrader: (3)

Guys I really recommend doing the DIY. The replacements you guys buy still have the same build design making the glue separate the wires out of the screen.... If you guys are going through the troubles of pulling out the units already, might as well do it right. This way it won't happen again down the line!!!

I did see some of the ebay and china units having a yellow tinge to the screens making what was white turn yellow and messing with some colors. So please be aware of that as well!

spaghetti1

I purchased the digitizer only from topelectronic parts, person was 'B.R.' Appears to be in Hong Kong. Attached it on top of the old digitizer with double stick tape on the sides under the metal bezel. Ebay and paypal emails below.
top.electronic.parts@gmail.com
topele_mznp6247rb@members.ebay.com.h...rs.ebay.com.hk>;

Tankdriver

I did the circuit writer fix on all 4 leads, checked using a multimeter and got a reading for 450 between pin 1 and 3, and 1700 for pin 2 and 4. Gave the circuit writer a couple days to dry, put everything back together, now only the very bottom 1/5 of the screen will occasionally respond to touch on startup. All the other times it doesn't respond to touch at all. Oddly enough, I found out today that if I push temp arrow button on the driver's side, then it gives me a 2 second window where the screen will respond. Anyone see this before? I think my digitizer is bad. Going to see if I can order one from ebay.

Spaghetti:

I emailed topelectronic parts awaiting reply. How did you install the new digitizer? Did you just unplug the ribbon from the old digitizer, put double tape on the underside of the new digitizer, and slap it on over the old one and hook up the ribbon of the new one and leave the old ribbon dangling? Mind sharing a picture?

spaghetti1

Hi Tankdriver - wish I had the pictures - I took a couple but must have deleted them after an unsuccessful attempt to post them when I did it.
- Basically I just took off the metal bezel that surrounds the screen.
- Then I put double stick tape on the left and right edges/sides of the digitizer and very carefully stuck it right on top of the old digitizer.
- You will notice that the digitizer that they sell is about 1/4 inch smaller than the original. Just make sure it's centered and you will be good.
- Then I put the metal bezel back on and confirmed that the digitizer was centered correctly.
- When plugging the ribbon cable into the connector you will notice that it's not nicely tapered like the original so there's some interference on the edge
- Just carefully push it in and then very carefully push down the locking mechanism evenly on both sides.
- Finally, you now have a digitizer surface that's slightly higher than it was before. There's 4 screws that hold the LCD assembly to the frame, you can loosen them and push it back a hair so it fits better in the dash plastic panel. I didn't to that so mine fit pretty tight when putting it back into the dash panel but it fits snug and is undiscernable from the original.
- Seems a little more responsive than the original as well but mine was messed up after having failed and repaired 2 times prior so no telling on that.
- In the scheme of things it requires little disassembly and doesn't require the same skill level as the circuit writer fix. If you've been through that this one will have you smiling.

Tankdriver

Thanks for the reply Spaghetti. I never heard back from top.electronic.parts so I searched for a replacement on Ebay.

After scraping everything off, and re-applying the circuitwriter and this time not getting a multimeter reading between pin 1 and 3, I caved and ordered a touch screen digiitzer only from Ebay

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40

basically I searched "lexus 7.3 touch screen"

I measured the original screen. It's 170mm x 108mm so it should be identical in size. The only difference as you pointed out is that the cable is not tapered and offset like the original. It's shipping from Canada. Once I get it I plan on installing it over the original digitizer. If the fit is too close, I plan on using a razor to separate the digitizer from the lcd screen since the two pieces is held together by glue according to the pictures put up by jlangford.

Will put up some pictures once it's done.

Again, thanks for everyone that's contributed to this thread.

Tankdriver

It worked! Used a razor to separate the digitizer from the LCD, installed the new digitizer which is the same dimension, and plugged the cable in.

Pictures showing where the cable is located, where is the easiest point to enter with a razor, junction of the cable and the screen of the new digitzer, and after installation.

IS300_white

Wait ...looking at the first pic you posted, is that black "glob" on the original cable wire your fix using a circuit writer pen? That's probably why that fix didn't work. There's no separation between the four routes ...looks like they were shorted all together.

When I fixed mine, I made sure I didn't short any of the routes together. I even scraped off the protective layer on each route before applying the circuit writer pen and applied it in the gap between glass & each route making sure not to short them.

Is that why the circuit writer pen is not working for some?

aira

So I've installed the new screen I bought from ebay and my screen still doesn't work. My climate control buttons doesn't turn on, as well as the screen. My stereo works though which is good. Is this a whole other issue I'm dealing with?

kelpjuice

okay so, i tried doing this fix and now the screen won't turn on.

Here's what i noticed:
1st attempt: screen didn't work, but the buttons on the sides still worked (sounds when pressed).
2nd attempt: reopened and found the ribbon on the backside of the screen was dislodged, so i opend the latch and reinserted it, checked all wireds to see if it worked. This time however, screen doesn't turn on and the buttons of the sides don't seem to sound.

what do you guys think happened and is there a fix? also i noticed on the back with all the plugs, my blue one didn't have a plug connected to it, and i couldn't find one to insert into it.

scoobydoo

Bob, did you figure this clip out? Trying to open it to take out the ribbon, but doesn't seem to budge -- what's the trick here?

Here's the pic of what I'm talking about -- this clip is on the circuit board that attaches to the screen. I'm trying to replace the screen with a new one and attach the old circuit board.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

I don't even have an IS, but this thread is awesome. Thank you to all who has contributed to this thread.

aira

Lift up the metal bar. It like a lock.

spaghetti1

Actually I think the black bar is what you pull up on. On the cable side of the connector.

scoobydoo

Anyone else have any guidance that has swapped out the screen (not just the digitizer)? The metal bar comes up easily, but does not release the ribbon. The black bar is shut tight; forcing it open doesn't seem like a good option. Any help would be much appreciated. Frustrated with getting this far and now stuck on a seemingly simple step.