Frozen Navigation Screen Fix DIY
#481
Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread. I repaired a friend's screen in a 2006 IS250AWD with the Circuitwriter pen and it worked great for about a month. Then it started having intermittent issues with parts of the screen not responding and the map moving spontaneously from "phantom touches." I decided to take a chance on an eBay digitizer which is working perfectly so far.
This is the digitizer I bought: ebay digitizer
It looks OEM after it was installed and works perfectly. There's no rainbow effect like some have complained about and the screen is easy to see.
This is the tape I used to secure it to the LCD:
It's possible to cut the old adhesive cold with a razor blade, but it's much easier if you heat it up with a hair dryer for a few minutes. A heat gun is not necessary. Just point the hair dryer at the joint for 4-5 minutes and the adhesive will slice easily. When you're using the razor blade, make successive shallow passes until you go all the way through the tape. Don't try to pry the digitizer from the screen. Just keep passing the razor blade between them until it's completely separated. It will lift right off with almost no effort after that. After that I carefully scraped the old adhesive off the LCD frame before I applied the new tape.
I highly recommend taking photos as you disassemble each stage. I neglected to do that the first time and it took a lot of time to figure out how everything went back together. All of the info I found on the web is very good, but not really detailed enough to show things like which screws go where and how wires and cables are routed in some places. The second time I disassembled the unit I took lots of pics and the re-assembly went much faster.
This is the digitizer I bought: ebay digitizer
It looks OEM after it was installed and works perfectly. There's no rainbow effect like some have complained about and the screen is easy to see.
This is the tape I used to secure it to the LCD:
It's possible to cut the old adhesive cold with a razor blade, but it's much easier if you heat it up with a hair dryer for a few minutes. A heat gun is not necessary. Just point the hair dryer at the joint for 4-5 minutes and the adhesive will slice easily. When you're using the razor blade, make successive shallow passes until you go all the way through the tape. Don't try to pry the digitizer from the screen. Just keep passing the razor blade between them until it's completely separated. It will lift right off with almost no effort after that. After that I carefully scraped the old adhesive off the LCD frame before I applied the new tape.
I highly recommend taking photos as you disassemble each stage. I neglected to do that the first time and it took a lot of time to figure out how everything went back together. All of the info I found on the web is very good, but not really detailed enough to show things like which screws go where and how wires and cables are routed in some places. The second time I disassembled the unit I took lots of pics and the re-assembly went much faster.
#483
Hi all,
Thanks for all the useful posts. Helping people around the world to do this fix, in my case from Portugal
Special thanks for post #1, the snapguide.com/guides/fix-the-touchscreen-in-a-lexus-is350, and the videos www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ADQRgXpxZk ,https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_IX...U#action=share .
I marked at all the cables/connections, takes time but at the end was very helpful.
Attention if you have a manual gearbox version, as it's mine. In this case, the center console instructions are different and I just realize that after scratch mine. There is the video for help in this case, www.youtube.com/watch?v=4nuHtJJzTEw
Thanks for all the useful posts. Helping people around the world to do this fix, in my case from Portugal
Special thanks for post #1, the snapguide.com/guides/fix-the-touchscreen-in-a-lexus-is350, and the videos www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ADQRgXpxZk ,https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_IX...U#action=share .
I marked at all the cables/connections, takes time but at the end was very helpful.
Attention if you have a manual gearbox version, as it's mine. In this case, the center console instructions are different and I just realize that after scratch mine. There is the video for help in this case, www.youtube.com/watch?v=4nuHtJJzTEw
#484
Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread. I repaired a friend's screen in a 2006 IS250AWD with the Circuitwriter pen and it worked great for about a month. Then it started having intermittent issues with parts of the screen not responding and the map moving spontaneously from "phantom touches." I decided to take a chance on an eBay digitizer which is working perfectly so far.
This is the digitizer I bought: ebay digitizer
It looks OEM after it was installed and works perfectly. There's no rainbow effect like some have complained about and the screen is easy to see.
This is the tape I used to secure it to the LCD: Amazon 3M tape
It's possible to cut the old adhesive cold with a razor blade, but it's much easier if you heat it up with a hair dryer for a few minutes. A heat gun is not necessary. Just point the hair dryer at the joint for 4-5 minutes and the adhesive will slice easily. When you're using the razor blade, make successive shallow passes until you go all the way through the tape. Don't try to pry the digitizer from the screen. Just keep passing the razor blade between them until it's completely separated. It will lift right off with almost no effort after that. After that I carefully scraped the old adhesive off the LCD frame before I applied the new tape.
I highly recommend taking photos as you disassemble each stage. I neglected to do that the first time and it took a lot of time to figure out how everything went back together. All of the info I found on the web is very good, but not really detailed enough to show things like which screws go where and how wires and cables are routed in some places. The second time I disassembled the unit I took lots of pics and the re-assembly went much faster.
This is the digitizer I bought: ebay digitizer
It looks OEM after it was installed and works perfectly. There's no rainbow effect like some have complained about and the screen is easy to see.
This is the tape I used to secure it to the LCD: Amazon 3M tape
It's possible to cut the old adhesive cold with a razor blade, but it's much easier if you heat it up with a hair dryer for a few minutes. A heat gun is not necessary. Just point the hair dryer at the joint for 4-5 minutes and the adhesive will slice easily. When you're using the razor blade, make successive shallow passes until you go all the way through the tape. Don't try to pry the digitizer from the screen. Just keep passing the razor blade between them until it's completely separated. It will lift right off with almost no effort after that. After that I carefully scraped the old adhesive off the LCD frame before I applied the new tape.
I highly recommend taking photos as you disassemble each stage. I neglected to do that the first time and it took a lot of time to figure out how everything went back together. All of the info I found on the web is very good, but not really detailed enough to show things like which screws go where and how wires and cables are routed in some places. The second time I disassembled the unit I took lots of pics and the re-assembly went much faster.
My question is, is there any way to test for the rainbow effect before installing? I obviously don't want to waste my time and reinstall everything only to see a rainbow in the car. Would I be able to see the rainbow if I put it up in front of an LCD tv or something?
#485
The rainbow effect comes from reflections, especially in bright sunlight. You should be able to test it by looking at if from different angles in various lighting before you install it.
As as a follow up, the screen in my friend’s car is still working perfectly.
As as a follow up, the screen in my friend’s car is still working perfectly.
#486
Cool, so a good screen would show no rainbow effect no matter the angle? Thanks for the info. Gotta get this fixed so I can sell it off..
#490
Thanks!
Reinstalled it and everything worked perfectly. However I do have a rainbow effect (bought from the link above). I checked it thoroughly with lights and TVs and sunlight beforehand and it didnt have anything. Not a huge deal, you can only really see it on the day nav screen, and I never use that.
I definitely recommend replacing the digitizer over doing the circuit pen though.
Reinstalled it and everything worked perfectly. However I do have a rainbow effect (bought from the link above). I checked it thoroughly with lights and TVs and sunlight beforehand and it didnt have anything. Not a huge deal, you can only really see it on the day nav screen, and I never use that.
I definitely recommend replacing the digitizer over doing the circuit pen though.
#492
#493
I just got the digitzer from German Audio Tech, got fooled by their cheating add (they say it is new and it is toshiba, but after seeing this screen) i am sure it is not new nor toshiba.
I just measured the resistance for the pins, and did not match those listed:
"The resistance between pins 1 and 3, and 2 and 4 should be about 500 and 1700 ohms." mine are half those values.
Should i proceed and uninstall the dash, or should i return this digitizer and get a new one from somewhere else? will it work?
I just measured the resistance for the pins, and did not match those listed:
"The resistance between pins 1 and 3, and 2 and 4 should be about 500 and 1700 ohms." mine are half those values.
Should i proceed and uninstall the dash, or should i return this digitizer and get a new one from somewhere else? will it work?