Joker4096

iTrader: (2)

How is the glare on yours when the sun hits it?

Harley1217

The touch screen on my 2008 Is 250 all-wheel-drive is frozen

Zmon

iTrader: (2)

You're better off asking in the regional forums: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/great-lakes-23/

Tanin is based in Racine, WI and used to take walk-ins prior to COVID. It appears they are currently appointment only for drop-off/pick-up unless you ship them your unit for them to repair it if you don't want to take a crack at doing it yourself. I imagine there are plenty of auto electronic repair shops around that can do it in the Chicago area if you don't want to drive up to Racine (after making an appointment of course) or shipping them your unit.

TaninAuto

Sounds like you are in need of our replacement assembly. You can check it out here https://www.taninautoelectronix.com/...izer-assembly/
We also offer a repair service if you want to send it in for repair and not do it yourself. https://www.taninautoelectronix.com/...screen-repair/

calvin2376

iTrader: (2)

I'm in the Northern Virginia / DC area and have just had the screen on my 2007 IS350 freeze. In another time I likely would have tried the DIY route, but I don't have the time to do it myself. I had a few questions if anyone can help out:

• Does anyone know of any individuals or shops in the Northern Virginia / DC area that do this repair?
• Have people found that auto electronics shops are generally willing to do this repair, and if so, what do they charge and can you supply your own part (otherwise where do they get their part)? I assume you'd have to find an independent shop rather than a Best Buy or similar?
• If I did try to do this myself, how much easier is it if you just replace the screen rather than try and repair the digitizer (I see a number of people on here have trouble doing that, and sometimes it doesn't fix it, and I'm not super confident in my minute electronics repair skills). I realize it's more expensive to replace the whole screen, just curious if it's also easier.

Also, to confirm, my screen displays and changes displays fine (e.g. when you use the physical buttons on the left and right of it) but it's the touchscreen that won't respond (well, sometimes it responds, but it registers my press in a different spot). That seems dead-on with a digitizer issue, but just wanted to see if there was anything else it could possibly be before going down that route.

Also, figured people would get a kick out of this. I asked my dealer what they'd charge to fix the issue. They obviously won't fix the digitizer or replace just the screen, they'll only replace the entire nav unit. They said that "assuming it's an internal failure", to replace it with a remanufactured nav unit would be $2,000 parts, $540 labor. HOWEVER, if there's "physical damage" (I asked what that meant and he said if there was water damage, or it was physically tampered with), then the repair would be....wait for it....$11,000. Can anyone explain to me what he's on about? Why would water damage to the nav unit mean the repair was more expensive? Or if I'd tampered with it somehow?

ELexis

calvin2376, unfortunate it appears that you're experiencing the defective digitizer issue, as many have had. I believe replacing the unit / display as a whole is easier (again depending on one's mechanical aptitude etc.), however, you also have the option of removing the unit yourself and sending it to have the digitizer replaced.The following offer the "mail your display in" service;

carbondna / Ebay;
https://www.ebay.com/itm/REPAIR-SERV...UAAOSwVGhZgMAa

TANIN AUTO ELECTRONIX
7012 WI-31 #100, Racine, WI 53402
262-456-4147
https://www.taninautoelectronix.com/...screen-repair/

calvin2376

iTrader: (2)

Thanks. It sounds like I have the following options:

• Follow OP's DIY where you retain all your original parts and use a circuit writer pen to fix the digitizer ribbon
  • Least expensive, most complicated
• Order a new digitizer only (something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Navigation-...YAAOSwY85dFcFX)
  • Costs ~$35, a little less complicated than the first option
• Order a new screen + digitizer (like this: https://www.taninautoelectronix.com/...izer-assembly/)
  • Costs ~$200-300, a little less complicated than the first option

Is the above accurate? Can anyone explain why I'd buy the full screen + digitizer if I could just buy the digitizer for ~$35? Is there a downside or risk to that route?

Also, is there a version of the DIY (or a separate DIY/video) that explains the difference if I go the route of just replacing the digitizer (instead of circuit-writing my current one)?

Lastly, I'm not sure I understand the benefit of the carbondna / Tanin repair service. For both, it seems like you already have to tear down your car yourself, get to the screen and then mail the screen to them for repair. But the repair service alone appears to cost $330/500. If you've already done the work to get down to the screen itself, why wouldn't you just pay $200-300 for a new screen and replace it, since you already have to do all that work anyway? I'm sure I'm misunderstanding something here, so would love some more background so I do understand.

TaninAuto

The repair service is for people who have no experience in disassembling and repairing precise fragile electronics, but can remove a few screws or bolts and get the unit out of the car

The ebay digitizer seller is a Chinese seller with little to no support and no US base. If you are comfortable supporting Chinese businesses vs one of us, go for it. We sell the same digitizers, but they are more appropriately priced (we like to think ours are of higher quality since everything is approved to meet our standards)

The digitizers are not OEM or Denso. If you purchase our full screen + digitizer you're getting an OEM Denso display with an OEM digitizer since they are packaged together as one unit. This is the only way to get an "OEM" digitizer.

calvin2376

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the information, and no intention to offend here - I'm new to this issue and the eBay link was one of the first search results I came to.

Putting eBay aside, I understand that your digitizers are not OEM but that the screen + digitizer combo is OEM. Is there a way to tell if it's just the digitizer or if the screen is faulty too? And is there any difference if I buy just the digitizer from you and use my existing screen or if I buy the screen + digitizer combo from you? Will the end result be the same?

Lastly, is there any guide to how to replace just the digitizer if I buy it from you (as opposed to replacing the whole screen, or doing the circuit writer pen method)?

ELexis

calvin2376, refer to previous reply # 521, which has additional information (links to tutorials), so you can better familiarize yourself with the overall process, and options available (removing the display unit component assembly from vehicle, then removing the display unit from assembly brackets to either; remove, order new digitizer and replace digitizer onto the display yourself OR send out to have this serviced). I believe once your review the tutorials regarding the process, you'll better gauge if it's something you'll feel comfortable attempting or not. After reviewing and believe it's a process you'd like to attempt, I'm sure Club Lexus members will be willing to assist with any inquires you have during the repair. As previously stated, many members have had the unfortunate experience with this known issue.

TaninAuto

The only way the screen would be faulty is if there is nothing displayed on it, it's black, or cracked.

The end result will be the same if you just buy the digitizer, assuming you are able to take apart everything and separate the digitizer from the screen with hot air to melt the glue, then put the new one back on without damaging either the new digitizer or the old screen in the process. The labor increases significantly.

If you buy the screen with digitizer all you need to do is unplug a few connectors and plug everything back in again.

calvin2376

iTrader: (2)

Thanks everyone for the help and tips over the last few days. I’m going to attempt this by going the route of replacing the digitizer (not the circuit writer pen route or the full screen replacement route). I had a few questions if anyone is gracious enough to reply before I start:
'

• Does anyone have recommendations on aftermarket digitizers (or particular sellers) that are particularly good vs. ones to avoid?

• Do I need to disconnect the battery or anything before attempting this?

• Do I really need to remove the center console cover (i.e. the piece around the gear shifter and that has the cupholder) in step 3 of OP’s post? I've seen videos where people remove the nav unit without removing that center console cover piece.

• With respect to the four clips that hold the A/C vents in, when you push those into the "down" position, do they stay down or do they pop back up? I'm wondering if I have to hold them down while I pull out the vents or if they'll stay down. This sounds like it’s the hardest part of the process (at least the one with the most risk of damaging the dash), so let me know if anyone has any special tips or things that worked for them. I definitely don't want to take chunks out of the dash.

• Are any of the harnesses tricky to unhook, or are they all pretty obvious from appearance how they detach? Presumably it's a matter of getting a good hold on the white plastic end of the hardness and pulling it out. Just curious if there are any tricky ones. I saw a few people post about one harness inside the nav unit assembly that has 4 wires in a 5-wire harness that has given people trouble?

• Can I really just use Scotch clear double stick tape to reattach the digitizer? I'd prefer that route as it’s easiest (I don't want to get into putting new glue on the screen), and I've seen plenty of people do that, just want to confirm that people haven't had issues going that route (e.g. the digitizer coming off later). Presumably it's also kept in place by the metal bracket you reinstall?

• Once I've replaced the digitizer, how and at what point in the process can I test that it all works? I'd love to test that I’ve done everything correctly without necessarily putting everything back together. Is there a way to test that I've fixed it correctly before reassembling everything?

• Lastly, I've seen posts from a few people who have mentioned that they put everything back together and the physical buttons on the sides or bottom of the screen weren't working. Is there a consensus as to what caused those problems? A number of people posted about these issues but rarely followed up on them and few people responded, so I never learned the outcomes. Curious if anyone had those issues and fixed them.

ELexis

• Does anyone have recommendations on aftermarket digitizers (or particular sellers) that are particularly good vs. ones to avoid
• Have purchased from carbondna and installed without experiencing any issues or "rainbow effect"; https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Lexus-G...A/331555180866
• Do I need to disconnect the battery or anything before attempting this? Believe it's recommended however, I did not
• Do I really need to remove the center console cover (i.e. the piece around the gear shifter and that has the cupholder) in step 3 of OP’s post? I've seen videos where people remove the nav unit without removing that center console cover piece. Yes. review the following tutorials; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGJ-...ature=youtu.be & https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...n-fix-diy.html

• With respect to the four clips that hold the A/C vents in, when you push those into the "down" position, do they stay down or do they pop back up? YES. I'm wondering if I have to hold them down while I pull out the vents or if they'll stay down. This sounds like it’s the hardest part of the process (at least the one with the most risk of damaging the dash), so let me know if anyone has any special tips or things that worked for them. I definitely don't want to take chunks out of the dash. Review the same video tutorial as above to correctly remove vents; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGJ-...ature=youtu.be as well as this tutorial;
  You Tube

• Are any of the harnesses tricky to unhook, or are they all pretty obvious from appearance how they detach? Connectors are easily removed however, can be challenging holding entire assembly while removing each connector. May be take photos / video of back before removing connectors, so you can reference when re-installing. Place something under assembly so you can rest it on open console if needed. Presumably it's a matter of getting a good hold on the white plastic end of the hardness and pulling it out. Just curious if there are any tricky ones. I saw a few people post about one harness inside the nav unit assembly that has 4 wires in a 5-wire harness that has given people trouble?

• Can I really just use Scotch clear double stick tape to reattach the digitizer? YES however, there should be enough existing glue left over after heating and removing defective digitizer, to attached the new digitizer. I did it this way and used blow dryer on cool setting to help cool glue while new digitizer was attached. Here's a video tutorial showing double side tape method being used;
  You Tube
  Can purchase LCD screen adhesive tape here;
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K4VZNF2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K4VZNF2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  I'd prefer that route as it’s easiest (I don't want to get into putting new glue on the screen), and I've seen plenty of people do that, just want to confirm that people haven't had issues going that route (e.g. the digitizer coming off later). Presumably it's also kept in place by the metal bracket you reinstall?
• Once I've replaced the digitizer, how and at what point in the process can I test that it all works? I'd love to test that I’ve done everything correctly without necessarily putting everything back together. Is there a way to test that I've fixed it correctly before reassembling everything? I'm sure with the proper test equipment it can be tested prior to assembly. Perhaps a member can follow up on how that can be accomplished. I just tested after re-installing audio unit assembly back into vehicle.
• Lastly, I've seen posts from a few people who have mentioned that they put everything back together and the physical buttons on the sides or bottom of the screen weren't working. Is there a consensus as to what caused those problems? A number of people posted about these issues but rarely followed up on them and few people responded, so I never learned the outcomes. Curious if anyone had those issues and fixed them. Can you reference which posts or replies have this information stated?

82ndABN

This thread is SOLID GOLD - following the posted instructions I bought my $25 digitizer from Amazon "

Touch Screen Digitizer Panel Glass for Lexus IS250 IS300 IS350 2006~2009 LTA070B511F Replacement

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JHT8SB9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

. . . tore apart the dash and made the repair !

It has been a few months and it is working as good as new. Navigation - check, Back Up Camera - check -

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU to the original poster - YOU ROCK - and the fact so many have commented is testimony to how many you have helped besides me!

NEXT UP - AMP REPAIR !

ELexis

82ndABN, great knowing another owner was able to successfully complete repair of defective digitizer.

On your other topic of "AMP REPAIR", what are you experiencing that you believe is amp related? I ask because I've begun experiencing a popping from center dash speaker and am trying to determine if it may be just debris rattling on top of speaker when audio is present, or possible defective amp.
Have replied in the following thread;
08 Is350 Speaker issue [help] https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-2nd-gen-2006-2013/911569-08-is350-speaker-issue-help.html]
Also, unsure if this may be your issue however, additional AMP discussion located here;
Found out why our is250, is350 and ISF audio amps fail. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...amps-fail.html