$8 cure to fixing fast blinking issue when using LED bulbs
#19
I am actually going to try and attempt to modify my stock flasher. I cant exactly remember where I saw this but its on one of those LED websites where they said you could grind down the metal horse shoe looking resistor? that is within the relay. They said if you grind it down enough it will decrease the load voltage enough to trick the relay from thinking a light is out. It is mostly a trial and error type of modification. All you need is a dremel.
Lets see how this turns out
#20
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From: Vancouver, BC / Seattle, WA
Thanks!
I am actually going to try and attempt to modify my stock flasher. I cant exactly remember where I saw this but its on one of those LED websites where they said you could grind down the metal horse shoe looking resistor? that is within the relay. They said if you grind it down enough it will decrease the load voltage enough to trick the relay from thinking a light is out. It is mostly a trial and error type of modification. All you need is a dremel.
Lets see how this turns out
I am actually going to try and attempt to modify my stock flasher. I cant exactly remember where I saw this but its on one of those LED websites where they said you could grind down the metal horse shoe looking resistor? that is within the relay. They said if you grind it down enough it will decrease the load voltage enough to trick the relay from thinking a light is out. It is mostly a trial and error type of modification. All you need is a dremel.
Lets see how this turns out
http://vleds.wordpress.com/2010/12/0...k-with-v-leds/
I am thinking of doing this too. For me, I'll just go buy another stock flasher and modify that one. I will use the guide but with a twist. Instead of grinding down the hoop, I will desolder the hoop and use a multi-meter to find out its resistance value; then go to a electronics shop and find a resistor comparable with less resistance and try that in its place.
#21
You're referring to this.
http://vleds.wordpress.com/2010/12/0...k-with-v-leds/
I am thinking of doing this too. For me, I'll just go buy another stock flasher and modify that one. I will use the guide but with a twist. Instead of grinding down the hoop, I will desolder the hoop and use a multi-meter to find out its resistance value; then go to a electronics shop and find a resistor comparable with less resistance and try that in its place.
http://vleds.wordpress.com/2010/12/0...k-with-v-leds/
I am thinking of doing this too. For me, I'll just go buy another stock flasher and modify that one. I will use the guide but with a twist. Instead of grinding down the hoop, I will desolder the hoop and use a multi-meter to find out its resistance value; then go to a electronics shop and find a resistor comparable with less resistance and try that in its place.
This will be my second option. Let me know what resistor you use. I currently have just the the 4 leds in place for my turn signals. So I think I will give those resistors mentioned in the post on the first page.
#22
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From: Vancouver, BC / Seattle, WA
Oh you mean the aftermarket turn relay. I was thinking of it but then I don't think their quality is that good compared to the stock, therefore it don't last compared to what I have read from various sources in general.
Last edited by Sango; 02-15-12 at 11:12 PM.
#23
Yes, thats the article. Ive done something similar to what you plan on doing with my c6 vette to turn off the 1st to 4th gear shift but that was through a fuse.
This will be my second option. Let me know what resistor you use. I currently have just the the 4 leds in place for my turn signals. So I think I will give those resistors mentioned in the post on the first page.
This will be my second option. Let me know what resistor you use. I currently have just the the 4 leds in place for my turn signals. So I think I will give those resistors mentioned in the post on the first page.
#26
Lets see how it turns out after the weekend.
#27
rcjten, if you put 0.2 ohm and 0.3ohm in parallel the total value is less than 0.2 so that it is possible that the value is in the order of 0.1 ohm and 0.2, this value is very critical, I think the best option is to lower the shunt nichrome have the desired value. thanks
#28
rcjten, if you put 0.2 ohm and 0.3ohm in parallel the total value is less than 0.2 so that it is possible that the value is in the order of 0.1 ohm and 0.2, this value is very critical, I think the best option is to lower the shunt nichrome have the desired value. thanks
Here's my findings:
.18 1w + .33 1w = .11647 2w = .48264V (Hyper Flash)
.22 1w + .27 1w = .12122 2w = .49238V (Hyper Flash)
.22 1w + .33 1w = .132 2w = .51381V (Perfect Operation)
.27 1w + .27 1w = .135 2w = .51962V (No Operation)
.27 1w + .33 1w = .1485 2w = .54498V (No Operation)
If some of my logic above is not correct feel free to tell me where I went wrong. I have no electrical background whatsoever, I have a degree in Graphic Design so everything above was self taught. What I am sure of though is that with my leds the .22 and the .33 have been working flawlessly to date.
Last edited by rcJten; 02-16-12 at 04:03 PM.
#29
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From: Vancouver, BC / Seattle, WA
Hmm, , the lower resistance and on should not hyper flash I would think because the load of the LED is more so it should be fine but yours case they still trigger.
From what I read from vLED is that the LED's have barely any resistance so I am thinking of maybe the use of a 0 ohm resistor would work best or at least 0.1 resistor.
From my bulbs using approximate calculations of what my LED bulbs are its about 7-8 W. I'm thinking 2 W, with 0 or 0.1 ohm.
From what I read from vLED is that the LED's have barely any resistance so I am thinking of maybe the use of a 0 ohm resistor would work best or at least 0.1 resistor.
From my bulbs using approximate calculations of what my LED bulbs are its about 7-8 W. I'm thinking 2 W, with 0 or 0.1 ohm.
#30
rcjtenn I'm not at that step yet, I'm trying to wire the drl, ok I am of the idea of shave the shunt resistor.
1-connect a multimeter (on resistance) between the two ends of the shunt and the value measured in ohms (example 0.18 ohm).
2-this value will give you as much as you have to do, shave the shunt (file) and measures the proxino value must be less than 0.18 ohm, 0.15 ohm can be and then connect the flash to auto and check it, and so on until you have the desired value, it is independent because everyone has different smd that handle different Pw.
When your shave shunt the ohmic value is smallest, is almost as if you did a bridge in shunt (0ohm).Here you no play whit Volts you play whit miliamps.
I think this might help you.(sorry guys im spanish )
1-connect a multimeter (on resistance) between the two ends of the shunt and the value measured in ohms (example 0.18 ohm).
2-this value will give you as much as you have to do, shave the shunt (file) and measures the proxino value must be less than 0.18 ohm, 0.15 ohm can be and then connect the flash to auto and check it, and so on until you have the desired value, it is independent because everyone has different smd that handle different Pw.
When your shave shunt the ohmic value is smallest, is almost as if you did a bridge in shunt (0ohm).Here you no play whit Volts you play whit miliamps.
I think this might help you.(sorry guys im spanish )