IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013) Discussion about the 2006+ model IS models

sewell offering 2011+ LED headlights for $1200

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Old 04-19-12, 10:41 PM
  #616  
ohiois350
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Originally Posted by Jeff Lange
I'll try to explain this relatively simply, because things can get complicated very quickly. I will break it down:

Stock 2IS w/o(LED), DRL not disabled, install the kit from Sewell:
0: DRL Halogen (no LED)
1: DRL + LED (100%) + Tail Lights
2: Low Beam HID + LED (100%) + Tail Lights
3: Auto

Stock 2IS w/o(LED), DRL disabled, install the kit from Sewell:
0: Nothing on.
1: LED (100%) + Tail Lights <--- This is how people turn on the LED's during the day
2: Low Beam HID + LED (100%) + Tail Lights
3: Auto

Stock 11-12 2IS w(LED), the way it works from the factory when the car is off:
0: Nothing on.
1: LED (50%) + Tail Lights
2: Low Beam HID + LED (50%) + Tail Lights
3: Auto

Stock 11-12 2IS w(LED), the way it works from the factory when the car is running:
0: LED (100%)
1: LED (100%) + Tail Lights
2: Low Beam HID + LED (50%) + Tail Lights
3: Auto

If you want the LED to come on by itself when you start the car without having to turn the light switch to 1 or 2, you will need to do some custom wiring to get power to the LED strips while the car is on (either from an accessory power source, or similar).

Important note: For Canadian models, DRL cannot be disabled in the computer. There are 3 good ways to get around this:

1. Replace the body ECU with a USA-spec ECU so that you can disable the DRL's.
2. Replace the MPX ECU with an 06-10 Euro/Japan-spec non-DRL ECU, or 11-12 LED DRL ECU, this will disable the halogen DRL.
3. Wire in a relay so that the high-beam halogen bulb only gets power or ground when the low beams are on.

I went with the 3rd choice, as I had already modified my car's wiring to run almost exactly how the factory 2011-12 cars do (my DRL's are on whenever the engine is running, but are not tied to the parking brake like the factory setup).

Jeff
Jeff, I got my hook straight to the IG2 fuse in the engine bay, so now leds will turn on when the car is on and off when the car shut off, but i wonder how to run the relay to make it like factory function? so the relay that I have it just like the relay that we use for the HID kit? it has 4 plugs ( 30, 87, 39, 80) would that relay work? please help us on that

Ps: do you notice the new 2012 is a little dimmer compare to the 2011? it look like dimmer to me? so tonight I let my brother drive my car and I drive his car in the front of my and I look at the rear view mirror, and notice the light just slight dimmer like about 10% less bright than 2011 one? but I like it that bright, not too bright like the 2011 that I had and leds is more white it like close to 6000k white not like the 2011 yellow white?
Old 04-20-12, 08:13 AM
  #617  
CCJ22
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Originally Posted by Jeff Lange
There are a few different types of stock HID projectors in the 2IS. The 06-08 and 09-10 are not the same, they have different cutoffs. I had stock 06-08 headlights, then 06-08 headlights with STi-R projector lenses, and then now stock 2012 headlights. The 2012 headlights have a better (lower) hotspot location and I find the light output better than either of my previous setups. The cutoff is obviously not sharp like with the STi-R lenses, but I found that to actually be more distracting than the soft cutoff of the factory lenses. I have never run any 09-10 HID projectors and cannot comment on them, but I believe them to be almost identical to the 11-12 projectors, they have a much more gradual step than the 06-08 projectors.

I've seen your pics of the stock output versus the S2000 output before CCJ22, but unless I'm missing something I don't see any pictures of any older projectors.

You've said it many times that you think the 11-12 projectors are inferior to the 06-10, but having worked with the 06-08's quite a bit, I can say that I respectfully disagree. What I think we can agree on, is that there are many much better projectors out there, and your new setup is a very nice one. I just can't bring myself to run a rear-mount bulb projector due to the modifications required.

Jeff
Agreed, the rear mount is going to require me to remove the entire front bumper from the vehicle if I ever have to change the bulb out.
Oddly, unlike most, I prefer "farther shot" output then foreground being lit up. I also like the sharper cutoffs of my 06 projectors compared to the 11's Of course the s2k beats those two but if I had to choose for the type of application I use my lights for... I'd choose the 06 projectors... I wonder what the 11-12 MY's would appear with some shield spacers/mods and a clear lens... Hmmm...
Originally Posted by ohiois350
Ps: do you notice the new 2012 is a little dimmer compare to the 2011? it look like dimmer to me? so tonight I let my brother drive my car and I drive his car in the front of my and I look at the rear view mirror, and notice the light just slight dimmer like about 10% less bright than 2011 one? but I like it that bright, not too bright like the 2011 that I had and leds is more white it like close to 6000k white not like the 2011 yellow white?
The yellow/white of the 11's and the 6k of the 12's has been confirmed.
I too have thought the 11's are just slightly brighter then the 12's. I thought I was crazy. I like the 11 model year cause it's dead on ***** accurate to the color temp of my Osram bulbs. Which are 4300k.
Old 04-20-12, 11:21 AM
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Haven't installed my lights yet but when I see '11+ IS's on the road, is it my imagination or do I find the LED not as bright as those in the CT200h? The ones on the CT are like "OH WOW" kinda bright... me likey...
Old 04-20-12, 11:34 AM
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Honestly the easiest way to wire it up to work sort of like the factory setup is to get an SPDT relay (5 terminals: 30, 85, 86, 87, 87a).

Terminal 30 goes to your ignition power source, 85 goes to the low beam +12V wire, 86 goes to ground, 87 goes to the 50% power on the LED strip, and 87a goes to the 100% power on the LED strip.

This will have the LED's at 100% when the car is on with the headlight switch in position 0 or 1, they will drop to 50% if the headlights are turned on (low or high).

Jeff
Old 04-20-12, 01:09 PM
  #620  
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Originally Posted by Jeff Lange
Honestly the easiest way to wire it up to work sort of like the factory setup is to get an SPDT relay (5 terminals: 30, 85, 86, 87, 87a).

Terminal 30 goes to your ignition power source, 85 goes to the low beam +12V wire, 86 goes to ground, 87 goes to the 50% power on the LED strip, and 87a goes to the 100% power on the LED strip.

This will have the LED's at 100% when the car is on with the headlight switch in position 0 or 1, they will drop to 50% if the headlights are turned on (low or high).

Jeff
Nice Jeff.... Is this a confirmed process that will work ???

Would you use one Relay on each side.... ??

How would I skip Position 0 ?? Meaning I only want them to work like this:

LED's wired with Relay

Position 0 = Off
Position 1 = @ 100%
Position 2 = @ 50%

_


~ Joe Z

Last edited by Joe Z; 04-20-12 at 01:28 PM.
Old 04-20-12, 01:20 PM
  #621  
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yeaaaaah my drl's are on in setting 0

My LEDs and drls are both on in setting 1

:/

however...LOVE THESE LIGHTS!!!



Old 04-20-12, 01:47 PM
  #622  
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Originally Posted by Joe Z
Nice Jeff.... Is this a confirmed process that will work ???

Would you use one Relay on each side.... ??

How would I skip Position 0 ?? Meaning I only want them to work like this:

LED's wired with Relay

Position 0 = Off
Position 1 = @ 100%
Position 2 = @ 50%

~ Joe Z
1 relay per headlight is the easiest, if you want nothing on in position 0, then terminal 30 gets power from the +12V wire on the marker light instead of from accessory wire. It's a simplified version of what I have in my car, it would work fine.

Jeff
Old 04-20-12, 02:00 PM
  #623  
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Lightbulb

Originally Posted by Jeff Lange
1 relay per headlight is the easiest, if you want nothing on in position 0, then terminal 30 gets power from the +12V wire on the marker light instead of from accessory wire. It's a simplified version of what I have in my car, it would work fine.

Jeff
Jeff.... You're the man..!!

So 30, 85 & 86 get simple wire taps... and then 87 & 87a can get wired up straight to the 2 LED strip 50% & 100% wires..



~ Joe Z

Last edited by Joe Z; 04-20-12 at 03:32 PM.
Old 04-20-12, 02:14 PM
  #624  
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86 just goes to ground, you can tap that into one of the negative wires on the headlight (low beam, high beam, marker, whatever).

Jeff
Old 04-20-12, 03:31 PM
  #625  
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Originally Posted by Jeff Lange
86 just goes to ground, you can tap that into one of the negative wires on the headlight (low beam, high beam, marker, whatever).

Jeff
I see....

Well currently my "RED" Led wire is tapped to the "Black & White" Marker wire...
My setup, was a DIY deal..

So I have to redo / undo some of my wiring, before adding in the Relays....

Joe Z
Old 04-20-12, 07:40 PM
  #626  
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Originally Posted by Jeff Lange
Honestly the easiest way to wire it up to work sort of like the factory setup is to get an SPDT relay (5 terminals: 30, 85, 86, 87, 87a).

Terminal 30 goes to your ignition power source, 85 goes to the low beam +12V wire, 86 goes to ground, 87 goes to the 50% power on the LED strip, and 87a goes to the 100% power on the LED strip.

This will have the LED's at 100% when the car is on with the headlight switch in position 0 or 1, they will drop to 50% if the headlights are turned on (low or high).

Jeff
thanks Jeff, now make thing clearly, by looking at your diagram it is hard to tell?n this much easier, but I wonder where can i get this relay? my local auto store only sell 4 terminals
Old 04-20-12, 09:04 PM
  #627  
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question... why do you guys want to run your 2012's headlights to run 50% and like oem?
isn't it better to have the option to have the LEDs on or off by choice?
Old 04-20-12, 09:06 PM
  #628  
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Originally Posted by mong
isn't it better to have the option to have the LEDs on or off by choice?
No, I don't think so.

Jeff
Old 04-20-12, 09:07 PM
  #629  
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Originally Posted by mong
question... why do you guys want to run your 2012's headlights to run 50% and like oem?
...
I recall one member mentioning that running 100% LED with the low beam, the LED's appeared too bright as if it was sticking out as one of the reasons.
Old 04-20-12, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Sango
I recall one member mentioning that running 100% LED with the low beam, the LED's appeared too bright as if it was sticking out as one of the reasons.
yeah to me 100% bright with the low beam it is kill the low beam, from distant all I see the leds not the low beam, therefore I want to run like oem


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