sewell offering 2011+ LED headlights for $1200
#616
Pole Position
iTrader: (13)
I'll try to explain this relatively simply, because things can get complicated very quickly. I will break it down:
Stock 2IS w/o(LED), DRL not disabled, install the kit from Sewell:
0: DRL Halogen (no LED)
1: DRL + LED (100%) + Tail Lights
2: Low Beam HID + LED (100%) + Tail Lights
3: Auto
Stock 2IS w/o(LED), DRL disabled, install the kit from Sewell:
0: Nothing on.
1: LED (100%) + Tail Lights <--- This is how people turn on the LED's during the day
2: Low Beam HID + LED (100%) + Tail Lights
3: Auto
Stock 11-12 2IS w(LED), the way it works from the factory when the car is off:
0: Nothing on.
1: LED (50%) + Tail Lights
2: Low Beam HID + LED (50%) + Tail Lights
3: Auto
Stock 11-12 2IS w(LED), the way it works from the factory when the car is running:
0: LED (100%)
1: LED (100%) + Tail Lights
2: Low Beam HID + LED (50%) + Tail Lights
3: Auto
If you want the LED to come on by itself when you start the car without having to turn the light switch to 1 or 2, you will need to do some custom wiring to get power to the LED strips while the car is on (either from an accessory power source, or similar).
Important note: For Canadian models, DRL cannot be disabled in the computer. There are 3 good ways to get around this:
1. Replace the body ECU with a USA-spec ECU so that you can disable the DRL's.
2. Replace the MPX ECU with an 06-10 Euro/Japan-spec non-DRL ECU, or 11-12 LED DRL ECU, this will disable the halogen DRL.
3. Wire in a relay so that the high-beam halogen bulb only gets power or ground when the low beams are on.
I went with the 3rd choice, as I had already modified my car's wiring to run almost exactly how the factory 2011-12 cars do (my DRL's are on whenever the engine is running, but are not tied to the parking brake like the factory setup).
Jeff
Stock 2IS w/o(LED), DRL not disabled, install the kit from Sewell:
0: DRL Halogen (no LED)
1: DRL + LED (100%) + Tail Lights
2: Low Beam HID + LED (100%) + Tail Lights
3: Auto
Stock 2IS w/o(LED), DRL disabled, install the kit from Sewell:
0: Nothing on.
1: LED (100%) + Tail Lights <--- This is how people turn on the LED's during the day
2: Low Beam HID + LED (100%) + Tail Lights
3: Auto
Stock 11-12 2IS w(LED), the way it works from the factory when the car is off:
0: Nothing on.
1: LED (50%) + Tail Lights
2: Low Beam HID + LED (50%) + Tail Lights
3: Auto
Stock 11-12 2IS w(LED), the way it works from the factory when the car is running:
0: LED (100%)
1: LED (100%) + Tail Lights
2: Low Beam HID + LED (50%) + Tail Lights
3: Auto
If you want the LED to come on by itself when you start the car without having to turn the light switch to 1 or 2, you will need to do some custom wiring to get power to the LED strips while the car is on (either from an accessory power source, or similar).
Important note: For Canadian models, DRL cannot be disabled in the computer. There are 3 good ways to get around this:
1. Replace the body ECU with a USA-spec ECU so that you can disable the DRL's.
2. Replace the MPX ECU with an 06-10 Euro/Japan-spec non-DRL ECU, or 11-12 LED DRL ECU, this will disable the halogen DRL.
3. Wire in a relay so that the high-beam halogen bulb only gets power or ground when the low beams are on.
I went with the 3rd choice, as I had already modified my car's wiring to run almost exactly how the factory 2011-12 cars do (my DRL's are on whenever the engine is running, but are not tied to the parking brake like the factory setup).
Jeff
Ps: do you notice the new 2012 is a little dimmer compare to the 2011? it look like dimmer to me? so tonight I let my brother drive my car and I drive his car in the front of my and I look at the rear view mirror, and notice the light just slight dimmer like about 10% less bright than 2011 one? but I like it that bright, not too bright like the 2011 that I had and leds is more white it like close to 6000k white not like the 2011 yellow white?
#617
There are a few different types of stock HID projectors in the 2IS. The 06-08 and 09-10 are not the same, they have different cutoffs. I had stock 06-08 headlights, then 06-08 headlights with STi-R projector lenses, and then now stock 2012 headlights. The 2012 headlights have a better (lower) hotspot location and I find the light output better than either of my previous setups. The cutoff is obviously not sharp like with the STi-R lenses, but I found that to actually be more distracting than the soft cutoff of the factory lenses. I have never run any 09-10 HID projectors and cannot comment on them, but I believe them to be almost identical to the 11-12 projectors, they have a much more gradual step than the 06-08 projectors.
I've seen your pics of the stock output versus the S2000 output before CCJ22, but unless I'm missing something I don't see any pictures of any older projectors.
You've said it many times that you think the 11-12 projectors are inferior to the 06-10, but having worked with the 06-08's quite a bit, I can say that I respectfully disagree. What I think we can agree on, is that there are many much better projectors out there, and your new setup is a very nice one. I just can't bring myself to run a rear-mount bulb projector due to the modifications required.
Jeff
I've seen your pics of the stock output versus the S2000 output before CCJ22, but unless I'm missing something I don't see any pictures of any older projectors.
You've said it many times that you think the 11-12 projectors are inferior to the 06-10, but having worked with the 06-08's quite a bit, I can say that I respectfully disagree. What I think we can agree on, is that there are many much better projectors out there, and your new setup is a very nice one. I just can't bring myself to run a rear-mount bulb projector due to the modifications required.
Jeff
Oddly, unlike most, I prefer "farther shot" output then foreground being lit up. I also like the sharper cutoffs of my 06 projectors compared to the 11's Of course the s2k beats those two but if I had to choose for the type of application I use my lights for... I'd choose the 06 projectors... I wonder what the 11-12 MY's would appear with some shield spacers/mods and a clear lens... Hmmm...
Ps: do you notice the new 2012 is a little dimmer compare to the 2011? it look like dimmer to me? so tonight I let my brother drive my car and I drive his car in the front of my and I look at the rear view mirror, and notice the light just slight dimmer like about 10% less bright than 2011 one? but I like it that bright, not too bright like the 2011 that I had and leds is more white it like close to 6000k white not like the 2011 yellow white?
I too have thought the 11's are just slightly brighter then the 12's. I thought I was crazy. I like the 11 model year cause it's dead on ***** accurate to the color temp of my Osram bulbs. Which are 4300k.
#619
Keeping it Real
iTrader: (1)
Honestly the easiest way to wire it up to work sort of like the factory setup is to get an SPDT relay (5 terminals: 30, 85, 86, 87, 87a).
Terminal 30 goes to your ignition power source, 85 goes to the low beam +12V wire, 86 goes to ground, 87 goes to the 50% power on the LED strip, and 87a goes to the 100% power on the LED strip.
This will have the LED's at 100% when the car is on with the headlight switch in position 0 or 1, they will drop to 50% if the headlights are turned on (low or high).
Jeff
Terminal 30 goes to your ignition power source, 85 goes to the low beam +12V wire, 86 goes to ground, 87 goes to the 50% power on the LED strip, and 87a goes to the 100% power on the LED strip.
This will have the LED's at 100% when the car is on with the headlight switch in position 0 or 1, they will drop to 50% if the headlights are turned on (low or high).
Jeff
#620
Lexus Fanatic
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Honestly the easiest way to wire it up to work sort of like the factory setup is to get an SPDT relay (5 terminals: 30, 85, 86, 87, 87a).
Terminal 30 goes to your ignition power source, 85 goes to the low beam +12V wire, 86 goes to ground, 87 goes to the 50% power on the LED strip, and 87a goes to the 100% power on the LED strip.
This will have the LED's at 100% when the car is on with the headlight switch in position 0 or 1, they will drop to 50% if the headlights are turned on (low or high).
Jeff
Terminal 30 goes to your ignition power source, 85 goes to the low beam +12V wire, 86 goes to ground, 87 goes to the 50% power on the LED strip, and 87a goes to the 100% power on the LED strip.
This will have the LED's at 100% when the car is on with the headlight switch in position 0 or 1, they will drop to 50% if the headlights are turned on (low or high).
Jeff
Would you use one Relay on each side.... ??
How would I skip Position 0 ?? Meaning I only want them to work like this:
LED's wired with Relay
Position 0 = Off
Position 1 = @ 100%
Position 2 = @ 50%
_
~ Joe Z
Last edited by Joe Z; 04-20-12 at 01:28 PM.
#623
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So 30, 85 & 86 get simple wire taps... and then 87 & 87a can get wired up straight to the 2 LED strip 50% & 100% wires..
~ Joe Z
Last edited by Joe Z; 04-20-12 at 03:32 PM.
#625
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Join Date: Nov 2004
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Well currently my "RED" Led wire is tapped to the "Black & White" Marker wire...
My setup, was a DIY deal..
So I have to redo / undo some of my wiring, before adding in the Relays....
Joe Z
#626
Pole Position
iTrader: (13)
Honestly the easiest way to wire it up to work sort of like the factory setup is to get an SPDT relay (5 terminals: 30, 85, 86, 87, 87a).
Terminal 30 goes to your ignition power source, 85 goes to the low beam +12V wire, 86 goes to ground, 87 goes to the 50% power on the LED strip, and 87a goes to the 100% power on the LED strip.
This will have the LED's at 100% when the car is on with the headlight switch in position 0 or 1, they will drop to 50% if the headlights are turned on (low or high).
Jeff
Terminal 30 goes to your ignition power source, 85 goes to the low beam +12V wire, 86 goes to ground, 87 goes to the 50% power on the LED strip, and 87a goes to the 100% power on the LED strip.
This will have the LED's at 100% when the car is on with the headlight switch in position 0 or 1, they will drop to 50% if the headlights are turned on (low or high).
Jeff