Jack and Jackstand Help
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Jack and Jackstand Help
So my wife's car is getting pretty close to have to bleed the brakes. I've managed so far using ramps to change oils, filters, etc. but now I need to be able to lift her 2007 IS 250 RWD so that multiple wheels can come off. I have the Lexus Service Manual and it does show the jack point (front is near the oil pan at the cross member, rear is at the differential) with jackstand location at the pinch welds where the oem scissor jack is used.
With the above understanding and the fact I searched all over the place, I can't seem to get the good answer. Here are some questions and issues I'm hoping you can help out:
1. Jackpoint near the oil pan is too deep for standard hydraulic jack to reach. I guess I can put the car on ramp, or 2x4, or use the scissor jack but is there a better way?
2. Is there better jack stand location other than the pinch weld? I don't want to bend it.
3. I've seen some suggest the underside frame rail but I've also saw a post someone dinged it inwards towards the rear when used as a jackpoint since these frame rails in the rear are not doubled up with steel. Does this mean this is not a good spot for the jackstand?
4. Are there a specific jack stand that can accomodate the pinch weld location?
5. If pinch weld location is used for jacking or jack stand, should I be concerened about the plastic cover for the side skirt that is present? It appears there's a clip I can take off and bend that section out so that cover won't be used as part of the jackpoint/jackstand but it seems to be a hassel.
6. I came across this option but working underneath the car with scissor jack makes me nervous. What do you think?
http://www.optimaforums.com/forum/22...ssor-jack.html
7. I've seen a special jack that allows you to jack and then insert a special jack stand at the pinch weld section but the cost is $300/pair. Way too much. However, I'm willing to spend upto $100 if my current jack/jackstand won't work.
Thanks in advance for your help.
With the above understanding and the fact I searched all over the place, I can't seem to get the good answer. Here are some questions and issues I'm hoping you can help out:
1. Jackpoint near the oil pan is too deep for standard hydraulic jack to reach. I guess I can put the car on ramp, or 2x4, or use the scissor jack but is there a better way?
2. Is there better jack stand location other than the pinch weld? I don't want to bend it.
3. I've seen some suggest the underside frame rail but I've also saw a post someone dinged it inwards towards the rear when used as a jackpoint since these frame rails in the rear are not doubled up with steel. Does this mean this is not a good spot for the jackstand?
4. Are there a specific jack stand that can accomodate the pinch weld location?
5. If pinch weld location is used for jacking or jack stand, should I be concerened about the plastic cover for the side skirt that is present? It appears there's a clip I can take off and bend that section out so that cover won't be used as part of the jackpoint/jackstand but it seems to be a hassel.
6. I came across this option but working underneath the car with scissor jack makes me nervous. What do you think?
http://www.optimaforums.com/forum/22...ssor-jack.html
7. I've seen a special jack that allows you to jack and then insert a special jack stand at the pinch weld section but the cost is $300/pair. Way too much. However, I'm willing to spend upto $100 if my current jack/jackstand won't work.
Thanks in advance for your help.
#2
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i've had that problem too. so i ended up jacking up one side first (hydralic jack on the weld and jack stand on frame) and then the other side. takes longer but thats the only way and you may bend the welds a little but thats normal
#7
Driver
Thread Starter
Thanks guys. This is helpful. Just to be absolutely sure, you guys place the jack stand on the rail bit inside of the car (where there is 2 inch wide frame going across the length of of the underside of the car)? As noted above, someone used this rail as a jack point in the rear and concaved it. jack stand will be ok?
Here's the image posted by another member per the manual. Jack stand would be placed not at the pinchweld location but the frame rail running parrel to the pinch weld?
Like this?
Here's the image posted by another member per the manual. Jack stand would be placed not at the pinchweld location but the frame rail running parrel to the pinch weld?
Like this?
Last edited by TakaM; 03-16-12 at 09:13 AM.
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#8
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Thanks guys. This is helpful. Just to be absolutely sure, you guys place the jack stand on the rail bit inside of the car (where there is 2 inch wide frame going across the length of of the underside of the car)? As noted above, someone used this rail as a jack point in the rear and concaved it. jack stand will be ok?
Here's the image posted by another member per the manual. Jack stand would be placed not at the pinchweld location but the frame rail running parrel to the pinch weld?
Here's the image posted by another member per the manual. Jack stand would be placed not at the pinchweld location but the frame rail running parrel to the pinch weld?
#10
Driver
Thread Starter
Just as an FYI, I've done lot of work on my Acura MDX including suspension work, tuning, etc. etc. It has 150K miles so I've done slew of things and am fairly mechanically inclined. Only thing I haven't done much is jacking up my wife's Lexus IS250 and I know today's unibody constructed vehicle is notorious to have not so strong frames where you can really screw up the car...hence all these questions.
Here's the image of what I'm trying to avoid:
Here's the image of what I'm trying to avoid:
Last edited by TakaM; 03-16-12 at 09:47 AM.
#12
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Just as an FYI, I've done lot of work on my Acura MDX including suspension work, tuning, etc. etc. It has 150K miles so I've done slew of things and am fairly mechanically inclined. Only thing I haven't done much is jacking up my wife's Lexus IS250 and I know today's unibody constructed vehicle is notorious to have not so strong frames where you can really screw up the car...hence all these questions.
Here's the image of what I'm trying to avoid:
Here's the image of what I'm trying to avoid:
#15
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I mean our car isn't made out of paper.... so as long as you're putting the jack on the right spot
there won't be any problem
after coils installed, I didn't even bother to care about the jack points...
now they are all flat... hahah