krUnALv99

Hi,

I have ran the Aftermarket Amp power wire from the front to the trunk,
I have also had a PAC converter in the car.
It is a PAC SOEM-T Model (It was installed in the car already when i bought it)
Now, There is a Yellow * black/blue (12v & ground) Wire that is not connected and i have read that i dont need to connect those wires if i dont want to use the remote wire from the PAC. Is this true?

Can the Pac Converter still work without connecting those wires?

AND.......



Also, In this pic, I have circled the wire that i found that should be the 12v constant for the remote. Is this the right wire?
Do i have to unplug the battery etc. or can i just remove the clip and plug the aftermarket remote wire into the clip and put the clip back in the amp again?
i dont want to splice to wires or anything but i will as a last choice...
I pretty much have everything else done except this much....
I am going tot he dealership tomorrow and i want it done so they dont think i messed with any wiring etc.

Hope Someone Replies ASAP...

thnx.

krUnALv99

BUMP ?

Someone Help Please.,..?

XSV

iTrader: (1)

You don't need to use the ground wires. Why are you trying to use a constant 12v remote wire? Your amp will be powered after you turn off the motor and your battery will die. You want to use any wire that does not have power when the car is turn off and has 12v power when the car is on for the remote. You need a volt meter to find out which wire to use for the remote. Don't waste your time and money by taking it to the dealership. You can but wire taps from radio shack to tap the wire and run the remote wire from there to the amp.

krUnALv99

i used the orange wire that everyone is talking about for the remote. (i have it circled in the pic in the 1st post...

I havent connected the power wire to the battery yet or the remote wire to the amp. i only connected the remote wire from the factory amp. i figured i would wait till morning...

i read on another forum...

"There are four connectors going to the factor amp. The first has four wires, two are “always on” 12V signals and the other two are grounds. The second connector is for speakers. The third connector (which has much finer wires leading to it) is the one of interest. And the fourth is more speakers. So back to the third connector… This connector encompasses all the leads that tell the amp what to do. For example: turn on/off, volume up/down, equalizer adjust, etc. There are two orange leads that go to this connector that will work nicely for tapping in the remote lead. "
I didnt mean to type "12v constant" i mean just 12v wire thats in the factory amp which can be used as the remote for the aftermarket amp.
this is what i followed...

what you think?



ALSO,

THANK YOU for replying...

XSV

iTrader: (1)

I would test the wire before using it. My amp didn't have the orange wire, I used a red wire for mine.

krUnALv99

I have the orange wire...

I DONT have a red wire in the 3rd set. only 2 orange as stated in the above quoted post of mine....

XSV

iTrader: (1)

Well, you can do whatever you want, I'm telling you it's best to use a volt meter to make sure you're using the right wire. Just because it worked for one person, doesn't mean it works for everyone.

krUnALv99

ok...
well thank you for helping me out....

ydnandy

TONS of good info in this thread, you seen it?

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-pictures.html

BigWiLL345

iTrader: (2)

That's the orange wire i used for the remote.

lexusMnl

Does adding an amp void the warranty? thanks

linus73

i hope not! and i have changed my stock radio to the flyaudio unit, added 2 extra amps and a set of subs too. the dealer never says a word about anything i have done. they even let me bring in the factory amp when it went out. i took it out from my car myself and brought it in for an exchange.

XSV

iTrader: (1)

From what I've heard, if something breaks in your car due to faulty audio install, warranty is voided. If something breaks that's not related to your audio install, warranty will cover.

krUnALv99

I have seen it but i dont have ML or Non-Navi. I am looking at the thread now...


Are you talking about the wire i circled in red in the pic i posted in the 1st post of mine? I have the Non-ML, No navi system.







ALSO, I need to figure out how to unhook the factory sub without cutting any wires....
I dont want to remove seats but i'll use that as my last option.




ONCE I GET GET THE REMOTE WIRE HOOKED UP & FACTORY SUB REMOVED, THIS IS WHAT I WILL HAVE...
A TEASER:

kumquatism

iTrader: (10)

1. You have to remove the rear seats to access the factory sub. It has a harness that you can just disconnect; there is no wire cutting involved.

2. The orange wire on the end of the second connector is the correct one. It's what I used, documented in post #181 of the aforementioned DIY amp install thread.

3. Good luck!