IS250 Carbon Build up CSP
#1067
The worst part is that after the "supposed fix" the car still shudders from time to time. It's never died on me and that's what I tell myself every time it happens. Funny Lexus completely got rid of this engine on the new IS, but sucks for us!
#1068
Just did the new piston under warranty in July, took Stevens Creek Lexus almost 3 weeks to get everything taken care of (most of it waiting for the pistons). The car couldn't start one day because my wife left the light on, and AAA jump started it telling me to idle for 1 hour to see if it is the alternator or the battery. That idle probably loaded enough fuel vapor onto the intake valve and pushed it over the limit, triggering the VSC.
So if new piston is not a permanent fix:
Walnut shell blasting is around $500-700 at European car specialists, so in the worst case you can bring the IS to a Euro specialist to blast it clean once in a while.
Or you can go Harbor Freight and buy the tools yourself, and spend one weekend afternoon taking apart upper intake manifold and masking tape the rest of the engine bay, then hand crank to each cylinder close position and blast them all clean.
So if new piston is not a permanent fix:
Walnut shell blasting is around $500-700 at European car specialists, so in the worst case you can bring the IS to a Euro specialist to blast it clean once in a while.
Or you can go Harbor Freight and buy the tools yourself, and spend one weekend afternoon taking apart upper intake manifold and masking tape the rest of the engine bay, then hand crank to each cylinder close position and blast them all clean.
Last edited by PandaBear; 10-15-15 at 01:08 PM.
#1070
All the catch cans ive seen used in the is250 are non vented. Doesn't a catch can full of oily carbony crap that would otherwise go thru the intake valves provide enough proof of helping prevent the situation? Yes oil vapor still will go to the intake but way less that dosent mean im gonna say **** it and leave it as is if i can reduce it to the point where its less harmfull maybe its not even enough to cake up like it does and functions properly who knows. Maybe the catch can captures the bigger particles of carbon en goop that are what actually causes the buildup and the thin vapor that gets thru is harmless.
All i know is the less crap going into the intake the better thats why im getting a catch can on my 06 is250 with 77k miles had camshaft/intake valve recall done at 55k so less than 30kmiles of carbon and i want to keep it as clean as i can.
All i know is the less crap going into the intake the better thats why im getting a catch can on my 06 is250 with 77k miles had camshaft/intake valve recall done at 55k so less than 30kmiles of carbon and i want to keep it as clean as i can.
No assumptions, heres a fact i know exactly how this system works and how the logic of the ecu works. The engine fuel system was designed to take into account oil vapors (hydrocarbons) when controlling fuel trims. If the catch can is vented out then the A/F sensor will read lean, thats higher than 3.2 volts. A short term fuel trim adjustment (+%) will be made, after a constant + adjustment for a while te long term trim will go up as well. Once this long term number is (+28%) it sets a lean code. The + fuel trim is extra on time for the injectors in % to hit a stoich mix. If you recirc the catch can then youre extending the inevitable but vapors circulating will still turn to carbon. 12,000 miles inst nearly enough distance to say it has made a difference.
one other fact, a true test would be to measure the knock correct learn value before your change to a can and the re check it at 12,000 to see if you actually did make an impact. You dont actually know for sure if it will make a difference. These cars on average could easily go 30k before they naturally built enough carbon to cause a problem. Why would yours show or not show symptoms at 12k of testing??
I come here with plenty of knowledge about the brand and its systems, I dont pretend to know to misguide people.
Those are the reasons why a code would set
one other fact, a true test would be to measure the knock correct learn value before your change to a can and the re check it at 12,000 to see if you actually did make an impact. You dont actually know for sure if it will make a difference. These cars on average could easily go 30k before they naturally built enough carbon to cause a problem. Why would yours show or not show symptoms at 12k of testing??
I come here with plenty of knowledge about the brand and its systems, I dont pretend to know to misguide people.
Those are the reasons why a code would set
#1071
Based on what I read in this thread, 2011 and up IS250 shouldn't be prone to carbon buildup? 2010 may or not be prone to carbon buildup dependent upon it's build date, is that correct?
Exploring my options for my next car, however the carbon issue is a bummer.
Exploring my options for my next car, however the carbon issue is a bummer.
#1072
Read through 30 pages.. but couldn't find any other symptoms than the rough idle. Would any of you know if my issues are related? It's somewhat ambiguous but very close to people's experience in here.
08 AWD - 70K
50% start ups, car makes a rattle noise as if the tranny has a bolt spinning around(goes away once you re-start)
CEL & VSC
14-16MPG (due to winter?)
when high RPM's, spits out smoke from exhaust
clouds of smoke pours out from exhaust when starting up. I understand typical cold starts but smoke continues longer than normal (vs. my TL) whether it's 20 degrees or 55.
any help would be great, thanks!
08 AWD - 70K
50% start ups, car makes a rattle noise as if the tranny has a bolt spinning around(goes away once you re-start)
CEL & VSC
14-16MPG (due to winter?)
when high RPM's, spits out smoke from exhaust
clouds of smoke pours out from exhaust when starting up. I understand typical cold starts but smoke continues longer than normal (vs. my TL) whether it's 20 degrees or 55.
any help would be great, thanks!
Last edited by rk1zle; 01-05-16 at 01:22 PM.
#1073
08 awd - 50k
I took my car in for the wiper recall and they ran a diagnostic test for carbon buildup. Lexus then authorized the csp for my vehicle. They offered to replace a bunch of stuff such as spark plugs and the water pump for only the price of parts which totaled $580. Should I accept their offer, or are they just trying to get me to buy parts i dont need?
Thanks in advanced
I took my car in for the wiper recall and they ran a diagnostic test for carbon buildup. Lexus then authorized the csp for my vehicle. They offered to replace a bunch of stuff such as spark plugs and the water pump for only the price of parts which totaled $580. Should I accept their offer, or are they just trying to get me to buy parts i dont need?
Thanks in advanced
#1074
08 awd - 50k
I took my car in for the wiper recall and they ran a diagnostic test for carbon buildup. Lexus then authorized the csp for my vehicle. They offered to replace a bunch of stuff such as spark plugs and the water pump for only the price of parts which totaled $580. Should I accept their offer, or are they just trying to get me to buy parts i dont need?
Thanks in advanced
I took my car in for the wiper recall and they ran a diagnostic test for carbon buildup. Lexus then authorized the csp for my vehicle. They offered to replace a bunch of stuff such as spark plugs and the water pump for only the price of parts which totaled $580. Should I accept their offer, or are they just trying to get me to buy parts i dont need?
Thanks in advanced
I had my clutch replaced during the CSP for the price of the parts.
#1075
08 awd - 50k
I took my car in for the wiper recall and they ran a diagnostic test for carbon buildup. Lexus then authorized the csp for my vehicle. They offered to replace a bunch of stuff such as spark plugs and the water pump for only the price of parts which totaled $580. Should I accept their offer, or are they just trying to get me to buy parts i dont need?
Thanks in advanced
I took my car in for the wiper recall and they ran a diagnostic test for carbon buildup. Lexus then authorized the csp for my vehicle. They offered to replace a bunch of stuff such as spark plugs and the water pump for only the price of parts which totaled $580. Should I accept their offer, or are they just trying to get me to buy parts i dont need?
Thanks in advanced
Cheers and good luck!
#1076
Read through 30 pages.. but couldn't find any other symptoms than the rough idle. Would any of you know if my issues are related? It's somewhat ambiguous but very close to people's experience in here.
08 AWD - 70K
50% start ups, car makes a rattle noise as if the tranny has a bolt spinning around(goes away once you re-start)
CEL & VSC
14-16MPG (due to winter?)
when high RPM's, spits out smoke from exhaust
clouds of smoke pours out from exhaust when starting up. I understand typical cold starts but smoke continues longer than normal (vs. my TL) whether it's 20 degrees or 55.
any help would be great, thanks!
08 AWD - 70K
50% start ups, car makes a rattle noise as if the tranny has a bolt spinning around(goes away once you re-start)
CEL & VSC
14-16MPG (due to winter?)
when high RPM's, spits out smoke from exhaust
clouds of smoke pours out from exhaust when starting up. I understand typical cold starts but smoke continues longer than normal (vs. my TL) whether it's 20 degrees or 55.
any help would be great, thanks!
Secondly there is recall for the carbon buildup that requires an engine overhaul. They replace the rings and seals on the piston. That will decrease the oil that blows into the motor resulting in extreme carbon build up. See if your car is a candidate for this.
With the "RATTLE" on startup, that is a secondary issue. You will notice it's typical when you start it after the car has sat...not because of temperature but because of non functioning mechanics of the VVT until the oil pressure builds back up in the system. It's actually the VVT or variable valve timing mechanism on the end of the cam shafts that adjust the timing of the cam shafts to crank shaft timing under various driving conditions. It's function is to optimize economy, performance, etc of the vehicle. This too is a recall. They will replace the inadequate vvt parts.
Lastly, there are several things that could cause rough idling and performance. Typically you want to address the regular replacement parts such as oil, oil filter, spark plugs, etc. If they haven't been done in a while. People don't realize the extreme engineering of these motors and that their oil plays a role in the operation of the motor not just to lubricate it. Dirty oil can plug up the VVT oil flow switches and you will see a drastic change in performance and eventual breakdown of the system.
Sorry...trying to summarize some key issues for you that I've researched over an over for my own problems...
So here's my short list
Plugs
Coils
Oil change (viscosity play a role in blow by)
Use a gas additive to clean the top end of you engine. Lots to chose from. Will clean the carbon off fairly well. Do this once a month. Cleans the valves, plugs, piston, cumbustion chamber, injectors and your catalytic system. It's worth it. And you'll recover miliage and performance.
Air filter
And clean out the throttle body carbon buildup
Hope some of this helps a little.
Good luck!
Last edited by KIS350; 01-09-16 at 12:30 AM.
#1077
First question: Are you sure it's smoke? These engines are very high compression and tend to kick out a lot of water vapor on a good day. My 350 is high compression too and kicks out water vapor constantly and always has. Just make sure it's smoke in your diagnosing process...are your tailpipes black? Can you smell it? Is it blue or black or white?
Secondly there is recall for the carbon buildup that requires an engine overhaul. They replace the rings and seals on the piston. That will decrease the oil that blows into the motor resulting in extreme carbon build up. See if your car is a candidate for this.
With the "RATTLE" on startup, that is a secondary issue. You will notice it's typical when you start it after the car has sat...not because of temperature but because of non functioning mechanics of the VVT until the oil pressure builds back up in the system. It's actually the VVT or variable valve timing mechanism on the end of the cam shafts that adjust the timing of the cam shafts to crank shaft timing under various driving conditions. It's function is to optimize economy, performance, etc of the vehicle. This too is a recall. They will replace the inadequate vvt parts.
Lastly, there are several things that could cause rough idling and performance. Typically you want to address the regular replacement parts such as oil, oil filter, spark plugs, etc. If they haven't been done in a while. People don't realize the extreme engineering of these motors and that their oil plays a role in the operation of the motor not just to lubricate it. Dirty oil can plug up the VVT oil flow switches and you will see a drastic change in performance and eventual breakdown of the system.
Sorry...trying to summarize some key issues for you that I've researched over an over for my own problems...
So here's my short list
Plugs
Coils
Oil change (viscosity play a role in blow by)
Use a gas additive to clean the top end of you engine. Lots to chose from. Will clean the carbon off fairly well. Do this once a month. Cleans the valves, plugs, piston, cumbustion chamber, injectors and your catalytic system. It's worth it. And you'll recover miliage and performance.
Hope some of this helps a little.
Good luck!
Secondly there is recall for the carbon buildup that requires an engine overhaul. They replace the rings and seals on the piston. That will decrease the oil that blows into the motor resulting in extreme carbon build up. See if your car is a candidate for this.
With the "RATTLE" on startup, that is a secondary issue. You will notice it's typical when you start it after the car has sat...not because of temperature but because of non functioning mechanics of the VVT until the oil pressure builds back up in the system. It's actually the VVT or variable valve timing mechanism on the end of the cam shafts that adjust the timing of the cam shafts to crank shaft timing under various driving conditions. It's function is to optimize economy, performance, etc of the vehicle. This too is a recall. They will replace the inadequate vvt parts.
Lastly, there are several things that could cause rough idling and performance. Typically you want to address the regular replacement parts such as oil, oil filter, spark plugs, etc. If they haven't been done in a while. People don't realize the extreme engineering of these motors and that their oil plays a role in the operation of the motor not just to lubricate it. Dirty oil can plug up the VVT oil flow switches and you will see a drastic change in performance and eventual breakdown of the system.
Sorry...trying to summarize some key issues for you that I've researched over an over for my own problems...
So here's my short list
Plugs
Coils
Oil change (viscosity play a role in blow by)
Use a gas additive to clean the top end of you engine. Lots to chose from. Will clean the carbon off fairly well. Do this once a month. Cleans the valves, plugs, piston, cumbustion chamber, injectors and your catalytic system. It's worth it. And you'll recover miliage and performance.
Hope some of this helps a little.
Good luck!
I'm planning on doing some of that maintenance on my is250 as son as winter is over, with temps below Zero or not more than 30 for the next couple of months is kinda hard to get some motivation.
#1078
So my IS250 had recall work done at 50k miles, not a full rebuild, but a cleaning. If the issue were to come back, would my car still be eligible for new pistons and everything that comes with it, or would it be an issue since a cleaning was done already before?
#1079
I'm not sure what year your car was at 50k but the current recall on the IS250 what I listed above for certain valid cars. Perhaps it wasn't a recall and it was just warranty work? If it was in fact a recall you had done before I believe the current one would supercede your previous recall. But I'm not positive. A cleaning would just delay the inevitable breakdown of your engine. Best thing to do is find out if your car is valid for it with Lexus.
#1080
I forgot a couple things in there if you're doing some routine maintenance... Air filter replacement (or clean the old one if it's not too bad) and clean the throttle body. I've read lots of people having issues after spraying a throttle body cleaner into the throttle body, as per TB cleaner manufacturers directions, so what I do is clean it by hand. The build up causes problems with airflow mostly when the butterfly is closed during low rpms. Use a rag like a microfiber cloth....if it's hard to get off with just the rag use a little gasoline on the rag or alcohol to loosen the buildup.
I hear you on the cold weather...hard to get motivated to go under the hood of the car...I just tell myself it's better than doing it when it's nice out.
Cheers!
Last edited by KIS350; 01-09-16 at 12:32 AM.