sw2oboi

iTrader: (12)

Definity remove any loose items in the car that can slide around. I changed out my brake fuild to motul 600 because the one in the car was about 2 years old already. It is a snap to change front brake pads and I used EBC RED. If you could afford to get another set of wheels with some nicer dry traction only tires. I see you dont have sway bars, but I think that is a must do. I also stripped my trunk and removed my rear seats. It makes a big difference. Dont come to the track with your car slammed or wheels flushed of any kind. Infact stiffen up your coilovers. Learn and memorize the track. Take it easy first time around and increase speed as you get comfortable going in corners. Always go in corners slow and coming out fast. Deflate the tires a little bit to improve contact patch and at the same time moniter your PSI through out the day as it can easily change when climate gets hotter or brakes do. Most of us arent blessed with nice bucket seats so, pull up nice and close to steering wheel so you slide around in your seat. If plan to rent a helmet used a headsock for sanitary reasons.

Sportskid1

iTrader: (1)

Just did my 5th track day in my is350 last weekend. So much fun. And it is still holding up great. Not one issue with the car.

As many have said if this is your first track day I really wouldn't worry about a lot of upgrades to your car but if you start getting into it you will quickly outgrow the stock parts. For breaks make sure you have at least a half of pad. I completely wore through a set of pads in 2 and a half track days and 5K street miles. At the end of my 3rd track day the pads were contacting the rotors. Also if your brake fluid is more than 3-4 years old I would replace it (I used SuperBlue race fluid). It really sucks when you are breaking down the strait and you peddle goes to the floor because your fluid is boiling (yes learned that the hard way).

I really wouldn't worry about tire ware. As long as you have a few mm of tread above the ware bars you will be fine as you won't be pushing it to hard your first time out. Your street tires will also be fine for the first few times but you will also outgrown those pretty quickly as well. I am running Hankook V12's and this last track day I figured out they will not cut it any more. Sliding all over the place and huge chunks of rubber are ripping off. Need to find something better now.

I would recommend the sway bars though. Make a huge difference.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

Seeing that we are near the end of the season for racing anyways, just go out and have fun with what you have. BUT, make sure you're safe in doing it. Good brake fluid and good pads that won't fade are a must. Plus all of the normal track-mandatory safety items : helmet, long pants, seat belt (duh), possibly long sleeves, etc etc. Read up on what the track advises you to bring with you on race day to make sure your day goes smoothly.

Had a question on a post I read on this thread regarding wheel chocks and not putting the car in park after being on the track. I understand why you would want the trans to continue to have the fluids to flow through it to cool it down, but what's that about the pads sticking to the rotors? When in park, the car doesn't engage the brakes to hold it in place. Could this be explained in depth? I've not heard about doing this if you are unable to take cool-down laps on the track.

RocketGuy3

iTrader: (1)

No, I mean a C7. If the C7 lives up to my expectations, that's the car I want to own. I've been holding off on the C6 knowing that the C7 is coming.


Just what I was thinking when I read that. Both park and neutral should leave the brakes disengaged. The brakes don't care what gear you're in. They only care whether brake pedal (or e-brake pedal) pressure is being applied.

projectdna

iTrader: (56)

i suppose my earlier statement needs clarification.

if P locks the gearbox up so that the wheels do not spin freely AND does not engages the brakes, then leave it in P without the wheel chocks as they are optional.

if P engages the brakes so that the wheels do not spin freely, then leave it in N with wheel chocks. otherwise, you'll cook the brake pads when they make contact with a hot rotor.

B16da9

iTrader: (7)

One of the best tips on here.

Also inspect your vehicle for wear and tear items specially wheel bearings and tie rods as those two will lead to you having a bad time if they are on their way out.

SCWB

Start with some slow laps and slowly work your way up. I paid the price for trying to go around the course too fast without my ability to handle the car. I was just destroying my car without any improvement on lap time. Later, I had some chances to sit in good drivers and learnt that they can go much faster without any drama and their cars weren't at all abused. SMOOTH control is the key. Learn to feel the car traction and how it reacts to your inputs ( steering, brake, gas, gear selection).

Slow in, fast out is a good strategy for a track beginner. Most important, don't try to push the car beyond its limit when you don't have an idea where the limit is. Just work your speed up after each round until you find the limit of your car and your ability.

Last but not least, HAVE FUN!

RocketGuy3

iTrader: (1)

Thanks again for all the advice, guys.

I'm really debating the brakes thing... While I could potentially see myself regretting not having race brakes, I only plan to track this car once or twice before I get a new weekend fun car, so I have trouble justifying the cost of a new set of pads. I assume race performance pads would be pretty pricey, too.


I just realized I missed this post. It's interesting you say that... While that makes sense to me, and it's what I would do in a videogame (), I've had several other people recommend inflating past the manufacturer recommended PSI in order to minimize wear on the sides of the tire.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

<$100...you only really need fronts. I recommend the Hawks :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AKEBONO-ACT1...83671b&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EBC-REDSTUFF...7a4d05&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HAWK-HIGH-PE...774d21&vxp=mtr

SVTRondogg

I will agree with everything but the first statement.

I have put 100s of laps on two DDs with no ill effects whatsoever. With the level the OP will be driving at I would be only concerned with proper maintenance/fluids/pads, etc.

RocketGuy3

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Gville. It looks like the Hawks you linked to are only for the 250, though. Or at least not for my model year (which doesn't make sense since I thought all model years used the same brakes).

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

^Oops. Yeah, the 350 and 250 are definitely different. If anyplace in the US had them, I would recommend getting some Axxis Ultimates. I have some on back-order right now, but who knows when they'll come in.

Heard good things about the AKEBONO pads; I'm not partial to Red/Yellow/Green Stuff EBC pads.

RocketGuy3

iTrader: (1)

Man, I've been having some crappy luck with my car lately.

Anyone know how dangerous it would be to take my car to the track with a slightly bent rear rim? I hit something on the road that put a bubble in my tire and put a bend in my rim. I'm going to get the tire replaced, but I was hoping to put off the rim repair for a couple weeks (which would be after I go to the track).

TimboIS

I doubt they'd let you on. Wouldn't pass tech.

RocketGuy3

iTrader: (1)

What are the risks that the bent rim would pose on the track? From my understanding, most of the problems (unless it is a major bend or a crack) are related to tire wear and vibration, and possibly making the wheel more susceptible to bigger damage if the same spot is compromised again.

... I do still have my factory wheels, though. I guess if necessary, I can have those re-installed for now.

EDIT: Also, for the record, I didn't really notice any vibration, thumping, or wobbling. I only knew it was bent by visually inspecting the rim. So... I'd think/hope that means it's not too bad of a bend. It is just the lip that is bent, and not the entire wheel as far as I can tell.