Dropped Transmission?
#16
But yeah, cold motor/cold trans = thicker fluids.
#17
I'm not too worried..
However if someone got 250K on their transmission, that is A LOT of freeway mileage in which the transmission isn't really doing a whole lot of shifting.
Even an automatic transmission from 30 years ago will last 250K plus if it is mainly driven on the freeway.
However if someone got 250K on their transmission, that is A LOT of freeway mileage in which the transmission isn't really doing a whole lot of shifting.
Even an automatic transmission from 30 years ago will last 250K plus if it is mainly driven on the freeway.
#18
I feel it is better for things to warm up a little bit before putting a load and stress on components. If your transmission isn't shifting right, and running rough when it is cold out, you can probably be guaranteed there is more wear and tear happening than if all the shifts are smooth and comfortable.
However, I've never said anything about letting the car idle in the driveway until the temperature gauge is the normal position.
#19
There seems to be a lot of controversy about starting and going vs. warming up a bit and then going.
I feel it is better for things to warm up a little bit before putting a load and stress on components. If your transmission isn't shifting right, and running rough when it is cold out, you can probably be guaranteed there is more wear and tear happening than if all the shifts are smooth and comfortable.
However, I've never said anything about letting the car idle in the driveway until the temperature gauge is the normal position.
I feel it is better for things to warm up a little bit before putting a load and stress on components. If your transmission isn't shifting right, and running rough when it is cold out, you can probably be guaranteed there is more wear and tear happening than if all the shifts are smooth and comfortable.
However, I've never said anything about letting the car idle in the driveway until the temperature gauge is the normal position.
There's a reason excessive idling is one of the things that puts the car into the severe service maintenance schedule, and there's a pretty long thread detailing the technical reasons why you're hurting your car doing it.
To 'warm up' the car, drive it. Just don't drive it especially hard until the temp gauge moves.
#20
You can always do what I do.
I let the car start and won't drive until the intial high RPMs die down. The engine is still cold but I give it that initial half a minute to let everything get in working order. Then I drive it normal and don't gun it until the car is at operating temp.
Watch, you'll start doing it now. It's called the UniSlayEX Start-Up haha!
I let the car start and won't drive until the intial high RPMs die down. The engine is still cold but I give it that initial half a minute to let everything get in working order. Then I drive it normal and don't gun it until the car is at operating temp.
Watch, you'll start doing it now. It's called the UniSlayEX Start-Up haha!
#21
There's not much controversy, warming up by idling is bad for the car, period.
There's a reason excessive idling is one of the things that puts the car into the severe service maintenance schedule, and there's a pretty long thread detailing the technical reasons why you're hurting your car doing it.
To 'warm up' the car, drive it. Just don't drive it especially hard until the temp gauge moves.
There's a reason excessive idling is one of the things that puts the car into the severe service maintenance schedule, and there's a pretty long thread detailing the technical reasons why you're hurting your car doing it.
To 'warm up' the car, drive it. Just don't drive it especially hard until the temp gauge moves.
You are also hurting your car by putting the engine and transmission under undue stress from lack of proper lubrication when the oil is as thick as molasses when the temperatures are cold outside.
Pick your poison.
#22
Yea not sure what fluids are as thick as molasses. All of the fluids are made to run in these and all cars under all conditions. Just pick the proper fluid for the temprature you live in. I think the biggest concern would be your coolant system in sub zero temps, you must have the proper mix in the engine. A good block heater will also help.
#23
In California or Florida this is not really a concern. Where I live, and it is in the 20s in the morning oil is pretty thick and takes a while before lubrication is optimal.
I've just noticed too many people start their car and throw it in gear the second it starts and gun it out the driveway...
But I guess since most people on here lease anyways, who cares right?
I've just noticed too many people start their car and throw it in gear the second it starts and gun it out the driveway...
But I guess since most people on here lease anyways, who cares right?
#24
In California or Florida this is not really a concern. Where I live, and it is in the 20s in the morning oil is pretty thick and takes a while before lubrication is optimal.
I've just noticed too many people start their car and throw it in gear the second it starts and gun it out the driveway...
I've just noticed too many people start their car and throw it in gear the second it starts and gun it out the driveway...
You're hurting the engine by sitting there idling past that point.
Your owners manual is pretty clear on this point, explaining there's no need to "warm up" the vehicle.
This isn't the 1950s anymore.
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10-24-13 07:55 AM