Problem with ML Subwoofer IS 250
11-18-12, 03:21 AM
#1
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Problem with ML Subwoofer IS 250
Hello everybody, i'm new on the forum
I was very happy with my ML sound system but now, i'm very dissapointed.
Subwoofer is cracking! I dont know why?!
When is quiet its more....and when bass is deeper is more...its terrible.
Anyone have any ideas how remove it? Im trying to remove but with no effect.
Please HELP
sorry for my english
I was very happy with my ML sound system but now, i'm very dissapointed.
Subwoofer is cracking! I dont know why?!
When is quiet its more....and when bass is deeper is more...its terrible.
Anyone have any ideas how remove it? Im trying to remove but with no effect.
Please HELP
sorry for my english
11-18-12, 10:55 AM
#2
What you said are all symptoms of your subwoofer being blown. They are very weak and have a high tendency to blow. If you are able to remove your rear deck panel, you should see that the paper cone of your subwoofer is ripped.
You have three options:
1. find someone/yourself to glue back together your subwoofer
2. Purchase another OEM subwoofer from the dealership, over here in the US it can be had for around $300 after special ClubLexus discount.
3. Replace the subwoofer with an aftermarket one. Keep in mind, there is currently no aftermarket subwoofer that will fit where the OEM subwoofer sit; therefore you would have to mount your new aftermarket subwoofer in your trunk.
You have three options:
1. find someone/yourself to glue back together your subwoofer
2. Purchase another OEM subwoofer from the dealership, over here in the US it can be had for around $300 after special ClubLexus discount.
3. Replace the subwoofer with an aftermarket one. Keep in mind, there is currently no aftermarket subwoofer that will fit where the OEM subwoofer sit; therefore you would have to mount your new aftermarket subwoofer in your trunk.
11-18-12, 07:39 PM
#4
It's actually pretty simple. No pics...but these are the steps. There isn't much risk of breaking anything until you get to the back deck. Total time: less than one hour. This is derived from several posts here and from my personal experience. I installed a new sub / amp in the trunk a week ago.
1. Remove rear seat bottom. Lift the front lip on passenger / driver side and slide forward. The bunk will come out easily. The seat belt latches are attached to the frame under the bunk. Just pull them through the slits in the seat bottom.
2. Remove the (4) 12mm bolts securing the seat back. They are located along the bottom edge of the seat back. There are additional bolts along this edge not requiring removal. Just remove the ones holding down the u-shaped retainer bars from the seat back.
3. Remove the adjustable seat belt retainers. This step is optional, but eases lifting out the seat back. It also helps to have a stubby phillips-head screwdriver. Remove the seat belt retainers on the shoulders of the back seat cushion. These are secured by (3) screws ea.
4. Remove the seat back. As referenced in other posts, removing the seat back is easier with two people. I raised it by propping a knee under the bottom and lifting at the top where it joins near the back deck. You will be surprised how high you have to lift the back to get it to come loose. Just lift it up and pull the top forward. Move it to the side. You don’t have to take it completely out of the car.
5. Lift the back deck. To get to the factory sub, you only have to lift the front lip of the deck 3-4 in. Complete removal of the deck is not required. Start on one side, and slightly pry with a long flat-blade screwdriver. Get about 1/2in of separation and then shine a flashlight under the deck to spot the white retainer clips. They are recessed a few inches from the front lip of the deck. It's more effective to pry at or near the clip to pop it up and loose. If memory serves, there are only two or three of them.
6. Remove the Sub. A small air ratchet with a short 10mm socket comes in handy as you must remove (4) 10mm bolts around the sub. Prop up the lip of the deck, or hold it up and remove the four bolts. This will be tedious if you don’t have the right tools. To remove the sub wiring connector, I pushed the retainer clip in with a screwdriver while twisting to disconnect the plug. Simply raise the sub and pull it through the deck lip opening. Take care not to puncture it.
That's it. I hope this helps.
"from jejagua"
1. Remove rear seat bottom. Lift the front lip on passenger / driver side and slide forward. The bunk will come out easily. The seat belt latches are attached to the frame under the bunk. Just pull them through the slits in the seat bottom.
2. Remove the (4) 12mm bolts securing the seat back. They are located along the bottom edge of the seat back. There are additional bolts along this edge not requiring removal. Just remove the ones holding down the u-shaped retainer bars from the seat back.
3. Remove the adjustable seat belt retainers. This step is optional, but eases lifting out the seat back. It also helps to have a stubby phillips-head screwdriver. Remove the seat belt retainers on the shoulders of the back seat cushion. These are secured by (3) screws ea.
4. Remove the seat back. As referenced in other posts, removing the seat back is easier with two people. I raised it by propping a knee under the bottom and lifting at the top where it joins near the back deck. You will be surprised how high you have to lift the back to get it to come loose. Just lift it up and pull the top forward. Move it to the side. You don’t have to take it completely out of the car.
5. Lift the back deck. To get to the factory sub, you only have to lift the front lip of the deck 3-4 in. Complete removal of the deck is not required. Start on one side, and slightly pry with a long flat-blade screwdriver. Get about 1/2in of separation and then shine a flashlight under the deck to spot the white retainer clips. They are recessed a few inches from the front lip of the deck. It's more effective to pry at or near the clip to pop it up and loose. If memory serves, there are only two or three of them.
6. Remove the Sub. A small air ratchet with a short 10mm socket comes in handy as you must remove (4) 10mm bolts around the sub. Prop up the lip of the deck, or hold it up and remove the four bolts. This will be tedious if you don’t have the right tools. To remove the sub wiring connector, I pushed the retainer clip in with a screwdriver while twisting to disconnect the plug. Simply raise the sub and pull it through the deck lip opening. Take care not to puncture it.
That's it. I hope this helps.
"from jejagua"
11-19-12, 02:13 PM
#5
Don't buy a new speaker! Send your speaker to simplyspeakers.com and they will tell you if it needs to be refoamed, or recoiled. It is very inexpensive and does come with a warranty for x amount of time. I sent mine out and it sounds new again. Very happy with it, considering it only cost me $56 to get mine recoiled.
11-19-12, 02:17 PM
#6
You also don't need to remove the back seat to take the subwoofer out. Just remove all three headrests, start to lift up on the rear deck lid panel until it comes up. I think there are about 4 clips holding it in.Then you can fit your hand in between the metal where the sub is mounted and the deck lid, after its lifted up.
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