Subwoofer Box from Concept Enclosures Review
#33
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I have this same enclosure with the top firing port, custom built @ 2.2 cu/ft, running an Fi Audio BL 12" @ 1ohm off of a HiFonics GLX1800.1D (1800W x1) that's mounted on the back of the box..
..and I'm seriously worried about breaking a window. You have no idea how hard this thing hits. It's literally scary.
Highly, highly recommended. Although.. you can do better for the $$ than JL. Friends don't let friends hug nuts.
..and I'm seriously worried about breaking a window. You have no idea how hard this thing hits. It's literally scary.
Highly, highly recommended. Although.. you can do better for the $$ than JL. Friends don't let friends hug nuts.
#34
Driver
iTrader: (7)
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I have this same enclosure with the top firing port, custom built @ 2.2 cu/ft, running an Fi Audio BL 12" @ 1ohm off of a HiFonics GLX1800.1D (1800W x1) that's mounted on the back of the box..
..and I'm seriously worried about breaking a window. You have no idea how hard this thing hits. It's literally scary.
Highly, highly recommended. Although.. you can do better for the $$ than JL. Friends don't let friends hug nuts.
..and I'm seriously worried about breaking a window. You have no idea how hard this thing hits. It's literally scary.
Highly, highly recommended. Although.. you can do better for the $$ than JL. Friends don't let friends hug nuts.
as far as his sub choice personally i would buy another w6 if it was just to put in a box like this. hes not trying to break records, just listen to music and keep it clean. this is coming from a person who started out with 1 w6 12 and have tested 4 different woofer brands, and 7 different subs all together.
you seem like your really into audio tho, not sure why you havent tried to design and build your own boxes, you should ride down to bradenton one day so we can meet up demo our systems. id be interested to here what ur bl sounds like, i had a bl back in the day too.
#35
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Join Date: Feb 2012
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This is the same box i want to get for my IS and drop a Infinity Kappa Perfect into it. Im not looking for crazy bass just some extra bump, by the way how much rattle is their after the sub being installed?
#37
Racer
iTrader: (5)
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I assume it would be drilled into the side of the box. jsmacks has his amp mounted to the back of the box, so there's room there as well. Whether it can fit in those places depends on the dimensions of the amp and the amount of space between the box and the seat back. I'd contact the seller to get dimensions, or maybe get the measurements from someone who has it installed?
#38
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Remember that your seats are slanted, so even with the box pushed all the way back, there's a gap at the bottom half. I also removed the ski access door and assembly for extra room and for access to the amp gain controls.
Here's the limited thread that I made of my first round of install. I've since upgraded to the Fi Audio BL12 and GLX1800.1D as noted above.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...fer-setup.html
Here's the limited thread that I made of my first round of install. I've since upgraded to the Fi Audio BL12 and GLX1800.1D as noted above.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...fer-setup.html
#39
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I can't believe you guys are going bigger subs then this, I am going to the shop tomorrow to turn this thing down, the bass hits so hard it gets annoying at times. This thing hits hard as hell and the amp is turned all the way down, for everyone else's setup's does your bass **** turn the sub off completely? My bass **** goes all the way to the left and bass at -5 and at volume 45 it still hits.
#40
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Yeah I experienced the same thing with the AudioControl bass ****.. as in.. it blows. There's not nearly enough sweep range with it. I removed it altogether and am using only the amps remote gain **** now.
For now, just turn your amp gain down to a point that's more livable.
For now, just turn your amp gain down to a point that's more livable.
#41
Racer
iTrader: (5)
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This thread is starting to push me to get a sub for more punch, but I don't want to spend a lot. Luckily, for my second job, I work at Future Shop part-time, so I can get a lot of the stuff at or near cost, and I pay half of the install costs. Yesterday at work I priced out some stuff. I found an Alpine M350 amp for sale locally at $60 (still have to pick it up). I did a google search to find other people's opinions of which sub to pair with this amp, and I'm thinking of pairing it with a 10" or 12" Alpine Type "S" sub, and "wiring the VCs in parallel for a 2 ohm load" according to a guy on g2ic.com.
So far I'm looking at
Alpine M350 Amp - $60
Alpine 12" Type "S" sub - $95
AudioControl LC2i - $70
Stinger 8ga amp kit - $50
Sub enclosure - About $240-$250
What do you guys think? I'm planning to get this installed on a non-ML, no navi system. Do I need anything else? Is the LC2i unnecessary (as in, could I get something less expensive)? Should I bother sourcing out a bass control ****?
So far I'm looking at
Alpine M350 Amp - $60
Alpine 12" Type "S" sub - $95
AudioControl LC2i - $70
Stinger 8ga amp kit - $50
Sub enclosure - About $240-$250
What do you guys think? I'm planning to get this installed on a non-ML, no navi system. Do I need anything else? Is the LC2i unnecessary (as in, could I get something less expensive)? Should I bother sourcing out a bass control ****?
#42
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This sub box is only $180 shipped.. and is I think the absolute best pre-fab option out there: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lexus-IS250-...7b9d7f&vxp=mtr
Other than that, it looks about right. I would recommend forgoing the AC bass **** and using the amps remote gain control as noted above. Also, I would run 4 AWG from the start.
You could get a cheaper LOC than the LC2i, but it won't have any type of sound processing which in this case is helpful since the stock signal drops off quickly around 30Hz which the LC2i works to restore. Don't skimp on the LOC... just get the LC2i.
Other than that, it looks about right. I would recommend forgoing the AC bass **** and using the amps remote gain control as noted above. Also, I would run 4 AWG from the start.
You could get a cheaper LOC than the LC2i, but it won't have any type of sound processing which in this case is helpful since the stock signal drops off quickly around 30Hz which the LC2i works to restore. Don't skimp on the LOC... just get the LC2i.
#43
Racer
iTrader: (5)
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This sub box is only $180 shipped.. and is I think the absolute best pre-fab option out there: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lexus-IS250-...7b9d7f&vxp=mtr
Other than that, it looks about right. I would recommend forgoing the AC bass **** and using the amps remote gain control as noted above. Also, I would run 4 AWG from the start.
You could get a cheaper LOC than the LC2i, but it won't have any type of sound processing which in this case is helpful since the stock signal drops off quickly around 30Hz which the LC2i works to restore. Don't skimp on the LOC... just get the LC2i.
Other than that, it looks about right. I would recommend forgoing the AC bass **** and using the amps remote gain control as noted above. Also, I would run 4 AWG from the start.
You could get a cheaper LOC than the LC2i, but it won't have any type of sound processing which in this case is helpful since the stock signal drops off quickly around 30Hz which the LC2i works to restore. Don't skimp on the LOC... just get the LC2i.
#44
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Careful on the wiring kit you buy, too. There are plenty of cheap ones out there that aren't true to their advertised gauge. There's a reason why the good ones cost more!
The best value I've found with wire that is actually true to the advertised gauge is the one that I used in that thread.. the Belva kit.: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...lva-BAK42.html
The best value I've found with wire that is actually true to the advertised gauge is the one that I used in that thread.. the Belva kit.: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...lva-BAK42.html
#45
Racer
iTrader: (5)
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Careful on the wiring kit you buy, too. There are plenty of cheap ones out there that aren't true to their advertised gauge. There's a reason why the good ones cost more!
The best value I've found with wire that is actually true to the advertised gauge is the one that I used in that thread.. the Belva kit.: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...lva-BAK42.html
The best value I've found with wire that is actually true to the advertised gauge is the one that I used in that thread.. the Belva kit.: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...lva-BAK42.html