New OEM spec rotors too small, is that an issue?
06-25-13, 02:25 AM
#16
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why you hummring the old rotor......you not having a drum man...it's a disk and once you take off the celiper brake base and the washer brass or steel lock from the bolt it's easily get out by hands
check the pads if the pads completly contact the rotor it's ok and fit in the bearing ...don't worry about the size
if not even by 1mm........gonna make a big problem
you can use the old rotor but keep in mind you need to change the pads when you need to pun new rotor....and the brake wont be that good
if there is a machine for the old rotor do it "if it not completly damge cos the hard hummring
check the pads if the pads completly contact the rotor it's ok and fit in the bearing ...don't worry about the size
if not even by 1mm........gonna make a big problem
you can use the old rotor but keep in mind you need to change the pads when you need to pun new rotor....and the brake wont be that good
if there is a machine for the old rotor do it "if it not completly damge cos the hard hummring
06-25-13, 07:15 AM
#17
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I won't put any or try to put any in risk man
You all right Crispy but I told him if he has to do.......already said the brake gonna be not that good or in other word weak.........It's better not drive it until he get new one....much better
06-25-13, 03:11 PM
#18
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So the bearings in the hub may not exhibit signs of damage now, but in about 1500 miles they'll start howling and you'll be taking it all apart again to replace the hubs. Hubs are not cheap. They're pretty straight forward to replace, but you'll absolutely need a torque wrench to install them. The four bolts holding the hub on the knuckle are the only thing between you and a wheel falling off the car, so it's critically important they are all tightened to the right value on all four bolts.
There is a brake DIY in this forum that has been here for a long time. It includes the specs for the bolts you need to remove the discs. It would have saved you a lot of frustration - it's pretty obvious the discs didn't want to come off, even with the hammer. And don't feel bad, 30 years ago I had the same problem but didn't have bolt holes to help me, so I feel your pain. What really sucks is the rotors you got are not the right ones (regardless of the invoice, what showed up is definitely not for your car). Worst of all, it's your only transportation so you're on the shoe leather express until you get this sorted out. I know all too well how that feels.
There is a brake DIY in this forum that has been here for a long time. It includes the specs for the bolts you need to remove the discs. It would have saved you a lot of frustration - it's pretty obvious the discs didn't want to come off, even with the hammer. And don't feel bad, 30 years ago I had the same problem but didn't have bolt holes to help me, so I feel your pain. What really sucks is the rotors you got are not the right ones (regardless of the invoice, what showed up is definitely not for your car). Worst of all, it's your only transportation so you're on the shoe leather express until you get this sorted out. I know all too well how that feels.
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Gsr1981
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