jehmin

I just wanted to verify. They changed the solenoids with new ones? If it was old solenoids it may just have had the same problems.
Also with like 8 solenoids. At about $100 each. The price would be close to a used transmission from a wrecked vehicle. Iv seen them at $500 to $900 Unknown condition that is.
Solenoids can make a world of difference so I just wanted to get some feedback. We not some yes and no's. A few thousand into this car would be about the cost of what its worth and wouldnt make much economic sense. I think I can get original manuels and will post them up for everyone in that event.

flynryan

The previous owner obviously was having issues with the tranny and the shop he took it to said its probably the solenoids so he had them replaced to the tune of $1100. Im sure he was still having issues, cleared the codes and sold it to me so that I could be the victim. Thats the reason I pulled all the solenoids when I put in the new tranny. All was great with the car when I bought it for the 1st 3 days then I got the codes and it started slipping. Used transmission cost me $400 from a wrecking yard and it is back to where it should be

jehmin

So everyone is saying to replace the
3528030050 SLU Linear Solenoid? Blue Conector.

Another said to change the TCC Do we have a part number for this?
is it 3528034010 ?
Also do you think the TCC solenoid would be the way to go instead of the SLU which everyone is having mixed reviews with?. My transmission shifts fine its just that something in the computer is not allowing me to do so.

Elijah2016

I just bought a 07 Is250 last week and the vsc and check engine light has come on and off 3 times. It has 110,000 miles. I paid cash for this car. I hope the transmission isn't going to fail soon. SMH

Elijah2016

VSC and engine light came on this morning on start up
​​​went to auto part store and it had 3 codes for P0335. Anyone ever had this issue?

luisvm97

Im having the exact same problem. I just bought my IS 250 less than 6 months ago and its was having problems with power as if it had none at all and not being able to pass 4th gear even in with the paddle mode also the traction control was getting shut off. Eventually I found out after multiple flushes that it is a solenoid and most likely need to get a new tranny or rebuild the one I have. Is it best to rebuild it and replace the solenoid or buy a rebuilt tranny?

luisvm97

check the transmission fluid asap. The previous owner of mine never changed it and left me with this problem. It might just need a couple flushes after it should fix or show you the actual problem (new codes), which in my case is the SLU Solenoid.

Elijah2016

​​​All it was, was the battery. It had the wrong size plus it was weak. I changed it over a month ago and light never came on again. Plus you can tell by the way the car starts now.

jehmin

I just changed 2 parts.
The SLU and SL1
Keep i mind SL2 and SL1 are the same parts. They just control different things. The transmission is a Aisin Warner A960E
I was getting torque converter codes and stuck off codes. after replaceing ( i think i messed up something minor but ill update this later) car is still getting stuck in 3rd gear. It did shift up right after replaceing.
My Trans fluid was Black as Motor Oil. When I released the excess New fluid. It was DARK Again! Probably all the excess within the unit. Might have to drain and fill again till clean.
Technically its strait forward.
Jack up Car.
Take off plastic 10mm
Drain Fluid 14mm
Take off more plastic 10mm
take off 20 10mm bolts from pan 10mm
change solenoid held by plate and pin 8mm
screw back on and refill 24mm

Its doable! messy and time consumeing but doable.
set aside like 4 hours for a relax work on car day.

RIght now some codes went off but then again I think i need to check fluid levels and color of trans oil. mine is very dark right now and i think it needs to be cleared up again.
World Standard Toyota costs like $6 to $12 here per quart.

I honestly wonder if the solenoid is even bad maybe the fluid makes all the difference.

bruceoc

Replacing the Solenoid worked for me!

I have a 2007 IS 250 with 143k miles. It was driving jerky at low speeds, including slowing down to a stop. The CEL and VSC lights came on intermittently at first (on & off for a few days over the course of a month), and then they stayed lit.

I checked the CEL code - P2757 Torque Converter Clutch Press Control Solenoid Control Circuit Performance or Stuck Off. I searched & came across this thread. Read the entire thread. Did I need a new transmission or just a torque control solenoid?

I brought the car to an independent transmission mechanic. He was familiar with this problem. He test drove it and noted that 4th gear seemed to be working fine - it was smooth at high speeds. Since the only code was P2757, he thought there was a good chance that the solenoid alone would fix it. If there were multiple codes and / or high speed jerkiness, he would have recommended rebuilding the trans.

I took a chance and bought the solenoid - part # 35280-30050 from a local Toyota dealer. It took a day to arrive. I paid $210 less a 20% discount the dealer provides to mechanics = $168 + tax. I price-shopped the part at local Lexus and Toyota dealers. Some quoted $230, some $243, and a couple at $210 (w/o the mechanics discount). I was concerned if the less expensive dealers were providing the same part. They have to be - it's from Toyota.

The transmission mechanic offered to install the solenoid (that I provide), change the fluid, install a filter and gasket for $300. I ended up having a different mechanic do it for $340 based on timing availability.

It's been over a week and the CEL code and the low-speed jerky performance are gone. Damages were a little over $500. Hope this helps others in their decisions on this.

F18driver

Just finished reading this entire thread. I have recently purchased a 2008 IS 250 w 158k. Same VSC lights as most here. Tranny shifts ok I think. Haven't driven it too much and it didn't really catch my attention...which I take as a good sign!

I have a pretty nice space in a shop to work on my cars so I will most likely tackle this myself using the simple things first mentality. Drain the fluid and refill. I may "lean" on the dealer in South OC a bit to do a flush...but I really want to see the fluid myself.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

From this post and the mention of black oil I have this to share. PS former transmission mechanic.

Here are the basics of what the transmissions Torque Converter (T/C) is doing. In an effort to make automatic transmissions more efficient the transmission has what is called a lock up style torque converter. What this does is basically operates like a manual transmission clutch (IN or OUT) that engages at highway speeds to reduce slip AND power loss from the engine output to the transmissions input shaft. This clutch is inside the Torque Converter and is controlled by the TCC applying hydraulic pressure to a piston.

In short at low speed the T/C clutch never locks. When the Foot Brake is applied, a signal is sent to the TCC to unlock the T/C clutch. This occurs in most every gear above 2nd and likely any speed below about 40mph depending on the vehicle.

Most cars it goes like this:
1st gear = NO TCC lock up.
2nd gear = NO TCC lock up.
3rd gear > 40MPH TCC lock up occurs when foot brake is off, Engine is Warm and throttle is not mashed to the floor. Depending on the load (up hill, down hill, or flat out cruise and Throttle Position Sensor input (TPS), the TCC will go in and out of lock up and most do not notice.
4th - 6th behave like 3rd gear.

If you pay close attention you notice what feels like a little bump, a nudge, or even a gear shift when the TCC engages in 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th.
i.e. The pattern goes like this when accelerating from a stop.
1st - > 2nd
2nd - > 3rd
3rd - > 3rd locked (If above ~ 35mph)
3rd Locked to 4th Unlocked (TCC disconnects so you don't feel a harsh shift)
4th Unlocked -> 4th Locked
4th Locked -> 5th Unlocked
5th Unlocked -> 5th Locked
5th Locked -> 6th Unlocked
6th Unlocked - > 6th Lockup.....

All of this is speed and load dependent. As well as engine temp, brake position, outside temperature and to some extent transmission temperature. Locking the T/C reduces slip from the T/C and can lower the operating temperature of the transmission. In short three things make heat in a transmission: The pump that makes the working pressure the trans needs to operate. The T/C when slipping. I.e. stalled as in: Throttle mashed, brakes ON, Car Stopped, the T/C being fluid coupler is slipping and making lots of HEAT! The next is internal clutch slip. When there is not enough hydraulic clamp force to prevent internal clutch slip, the steel and friction discs slip making heat. This is like rubbing your hands together aggressively. Extreme heat breaks down the fluid and kills the trans.

Why does the car shudder when the TCC solenoid fails? Internal to the torque converter is piston and clutch somewhat like a manual transmission. When you get below about 30 mph the clutch in the T/C is supposed to disengage and BREAK the DIRECT coupling effect from the engine to the trans. The Shudder is like driving a Stick Shift and mashing the brake without first pushing in the clutch when coming to a stop. Without slip from the clutch (or in this case the T/C), the engine load causes bucking. When this system fails the ECU knows the engine load is high (abnormal) and that the trans is still directly coupled and triggers a CEL. From here is may stay in limp mode never going past 3rd gear.

As a newb to the IS350 crowd I find this thread alarming. Mine has 52k and will have the fluid dumped before 60k comes around.

I am not saying everyone go out the dump their fluid but I am going to check mine for volume, color, and smell. If dark and stinky it will be changed. If low it will be changed.

A tip to those who do this: Check the level at a known temperature. Drain the oil using the pans drain plug. Measure all oil coming out. Start the car for about 3-4 seconds while in park. This dumps some of the fluid from the T/C. Let it drain into the drain pan.
Drop the oil pan, pull and replace the filter. Install a new filter. MEASURE ALL FLUID that came out!!!!! Install pan and plug.
PUMP IN 2qts of new fluid. Start Engine and allow to idle for at least 60 seconds. Turn ENGINE OFF. Add the remainder of the fluid.

Normalize oil temp and check fluid volume. Adjust as needed.

USE THIS INFORMATION AT YOUR OWN RISK!! I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE, HARM, LOSS OF PERFORMANCE OR ANYTHING ELSE IF YOU USE THIS ADVICE.

*** USE AT YOUR OWN RISK! ***

Mine will get new TWS fluid at 60k. The above process will be repeated at least 2 to 3 times replacing the fluid approximately 3.5 qts per session minus the initial filter change. PS - when out of warranty fluid will be changed to synthetic.

Good luck people....

PandaBear

iTrader: (1)

Automatic transmissions are fragile these days. They try to shift smooth and use PWM to control solenoid, and let the clutches and bands "slip" a little when engaging and disengaging. This means if your solenoid goes bad just for a little, it slip the wrong way and your clutches are burnt.

Burnt clutch releases a lot of friction material into the oil, and clog up the valve body and solenoids, more solenoid malfunction, more slip, until the transmission really went bad. By that time replacing just one or two solenoids, changing fluid, etc are too late.

A proper rebuild or low mileage one is the way to go. If you only want your car to last 200k and the transmission dies at 150K, and you can find a wreck 40k to swap in for cheap, that gives you another 100K, it is not a bad idea.

Spending $7k on a $9k car (at that mileage) for a rebuild transmission doesn't make sense.

F18driver

2013FSport....Thanks for the great write up. Solid advice. This is at the top of my list of DIY's.

F18driver

Before I do DIY's I look on youtube. This one was very informative in a general sense: